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Mt farmer · 04-08-2017, **(Subject: 09 Prostar running hot )**

Hello! New to the forum. I have an 09 Prostar, with a isx 450. Bought the truck used from Penske with 250000 miles. Stock radiator pluged too easily o I put a feedlot radiator on it and solved my problem for awhile. Truck sat for 2 months after harvest. Started hauling wheat, and the truck started running hot, like 225 on the hills. Took it to the local Cummings shop, and after 1500$, they could find nothing wrong. Radiator is clean, water pressure is normal. No codes. No leaks, not using coolant or oil. Truck will heat over 200 on high idle. Fan is constantly kicking on, so no problem there. Did the egr tune up, thanks to this site! But still running hot. Also put in a new thermostat, with no luck. Should I just throw a water pump on it? Have run out of ideas. Has the original egr cooler.

Squish099 · 04-08-2017, **(Subject: 09 Prostar running hot )**

(04-08-2017 )Mt farmer Wrote: Hello! New to the forum. I have an 09 Prostar, with a isx 450. Bought the truck used from Penske with 250000 miles. Stock radiator pluged too easily o I put a feedlot radiator on it and solved my problem for awhile. Truck sat for 2 months after harvest. Started hauling wheat, and the truck started running hot, like 225 on the hills. Took it to the local Cummings shop, and after 1500$, they could find nothing wrong. Radiator is clean, water pressure is normal. No codes. No leaks, not using coolant or oil. Truck will heat over 200 on high idle. Fan is constantly kicking on, so no problem there. Did the egr tune up, thanks to this site! But still running hot. Also put in a new thermostat, with no luck. Should I just throw a water pump on it? Have run out of ideas. Has the original egr cooler.

Has the filter been changed? Has the radiator, cac, and ac condensor been cleaned? They get clogged with bugs (assuming your running in fields I'm sure dust/twigs bits of stalks and the like too). Just a couple of thoughts..

Mt farmer · 04-08-2017, **(Subject: 09 Prostar running hot )**

Yup radiator is super clean, and changed the water filter.

Mt farmer · 04-09-2017, **(Subject: 09 Prostar running hot )**

Could the water pump be bad without leaking?

Mt farmer · 04-09-2017, **(Subject: 09 Prostar running hot )**

Radiator came from radiator supply house in Oregon, custom made aluminum feedlot radiator, really helped, before this happened. It did shut down once in the field before we put this in. Had no problems this year after we put it in, even on 95 degree days. Then the truck sat for 2 months and the problem started.

snailexpress · 04-09-2017, **(Subject: 09 Prostar running hot )**

Start truck after night sitting, turn AC in HEAT position. If truck with sleeper use the sleeper heater. Check with your hand pipes to the heater core in and out. If both pipes are hot then engine water pump is working. Keep engine running on high idle until temperature reaches 200. Check upper hose from engine block to the radiator. Is it hot? Is it under pressure?
Infrared thermometer will help to verify the temperature sensor is working correctly.

Rawze · 04-09-2017, **(Subject: 09 Prostar running hot )**

I have seen people change thermostats and either not change the brass ring in the bottom of the thermostat housing and/or damage it during install. Then, the engine continues to overheat, so i would verify this by disassembling it and inspecting it closely. Make sure the brass ring is undamaged and the turkon seal is not split or broken.

I have seen trucks that the A/C condenser gets dirty and restricks air flow through the CAC and radiator.

I have seen trucks that the inside of the radiator gets anodized, reducing its thermal efficiency making for higher coolant temps as well. You claim you have an after-market radiator, perhaps this may have happened?

I have seen trucks where the engine fan was mounted backwards and it was pushing air forward instead of pulling air towards the engine. Yes this is possible.

I have seen trucks where the fan solenoid went bad and the fan clutch did not fully engage, then it wears out and the fan does not pull the air through well enough after a few months. I have also seen them rust and get dirt in them and cause the same things.

You did not mention the type of coolant you use, or if you have flushed it. Perhaps that is relevant?

A cheap thermal temp gun can work wonders with cooling system problems. You could say .. Check the inlet and outlet temps for the radiator core, check the tharmostat housing to see if your getting false readings, check the temp of the water going into the water-pump, etc.

The water pump is a vane-style pump. If debris went through the pump, the vanes could be damaged, reducing coolant flow, but it is pretty rare for this to happen.

Mt farmer · 04-09-2017, **(Subject: 09 Prostar running hot )**

What does it mean, when the radiator is anodized? Used new red Detroit coolant when I put the new radiator in. Used the same stuff when I changed the thermostat.

Rawze · 04-09-2017, **(Subject: 09 Prostar running hot )**

(04-09-2017 )Mt farmer Wrote: What does it mean, when the radiator is anodized? Used new red Detroit coolant when I put the new radiator in. Used the same stuff when I changed the thermostat.

basically its when something has built up on the surfaces inside the radiator the lower its heat xfer effects. Sometimes it is anodizing (discoloring of the metal from reaction with the coolant or water, etc. lowering its overall heat xfer effects), or could be a buildup of sludge, etc.

It is common for the small radiator in APU's to get internally anodized and not be so efficient. I had one do this and it went from dropping the temperature by 30-40 degrees to only being able to drop the temperature 15-20 degrees and it was just enough for the APU to have constant heat issues after an hour or more of run time. I found this by using a heat gun, comparing input and output temps both before replacing the radiator and after. The inside of it looked clean but it was discolored badly. On mine, the day I tested this, it was only dropping the coolant by about 18 degrees across the core, then after I replaced it, it immediately started dropping the temps by 40+ degrees across the new core. I have since seen this on a few other trucks APU's as well.

You say it gets hot quick, so that is not likely simple anodizing in your case unless there is blockage or its design is less efficient than the factory radiator, who knows. Your original post makes it seem like you have a serious cooling issue or a serious issue with the engine producing heat quicker than the system can keep up with.