CM-871 Overhead...

[Hammerhead]

(10-21-2017 )ktbtrucking Wrote:  When I made it first time and it is really difficult to put feeler gauge between crosshead and rocker. I had to wobble crosshead a little to get a chance to put feeler gauge. Like oil sticks those two parts together and also tried smaller fillers with .

^^^the bold part!
DO NOT PANIC!!!
You will have a very difficult time attempting to get a 0.014" intake or 0.027 exhaust in before you set the valves on an overhead, and you should!
The why is simple, there will always be a small amount of wear of the valves, seats, crossheads, rocker shafts, rockers, etc. it's inevitable. Also, the engine has been lubricating itself, so there is an oil film that takes up several thou of clearance, making getting the "correct feeler" in damn near impossible even on a recently set overhead, never mind a run in one, so relax, this is NORMAL. In fact, I'd say it should be expected, because if you can get the correct feelers in before you do your overhead, it was arguably set too loose! Unless you're a nerd like me who sets his every 6 months...

This is exactly why I release the jam nuts, back out the adjuster, insert the correct feeler, and compress then release each adjuster 3 times before I do the actual final adjustment. This ensures the oil film has been compressed out of the components to get a correct adjustment. If you don't do this, you are setting the clearance plus a cold oil film, and we all know once the oil heats up it thins out, thus increasing your clearances from the proper setting.

Yes #6 should have one compressed (intake) & one released (exhaust) valve when setting #1 and vice versa. Number 6 is opposite #1, as is 5 & 2, as well as 3 & 4.
The adjustment is made at the end of the injection cycle during the power stroke. This is so the injector is at the end of injection cycle to be in the correct position to adjust the pre-load with no fuel interference, and of course because it's also the power stroke, both valves are closed and can be adjusted. While #1 piston is being forced down for power stroke, #6 is on the intake stroke and so on...

Remember, I said don't hesitate to call me if you need to...

[Waterloo]

Cool, thanks Hammer, and no panic here, just want to make sure everything is good. And, so far so good. I watched more than a few videos today, and none went into what to expect, just how to do. I think I am OK, but I want to know a bit more on how everything is seated and such when I pop the top. Just poking around, as this is my livelihood, not a 350 Chevy I play with on the weekend. AND you know that. ;-)

[Hammerhead]

The things you've described, fixed and helped others on here do, I'm sure you'll be fine.

[Waterloo]

I'm complicating this, I know... Talked to my buddy last night, he is out in Phoenix and plays around with aircraft motors. He also has an identical ProStar to mine.

I have everything apart, all ready to go as far as starting the overhead, but I am looking at the back two cylinders and asking myself, "Self, how the hell are you going to get your fat ass back there with that regular set of feeler gauges?"

Than the issue of my in/lb torque wrench came into play, mine is the CDI 0-300 in/lb dial unit... I'm wondering how accurate this will be at 8 in/lbs for the injectors? My buddy raised the same question, thinking a lesser unit of measurement in/lb wrench would be more accurate. So, I ordered a 0-30 in/lb CDI torque wrench. The feelers, I found a set of 90* feelers designed to get back under that firewall.

Here is the feeler gauge set... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SZ4...UTF8&psc=1

Here is the 0-30 in/lb CDI torque wrench... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013C...UTF8&psc=1

I want to make this a regular maintenance item that I can quickly and easily perform in my driveway. So, overthinking or not, I think these tools will help immensely in regards to accomplishing this task, especially #5 and #6 cylinders. I'll use my 0-300 in/lb to set the engine brake, so it will not go to waste. And a mirror. ;-)

I'm just anal about this stuff and can afford the tools, and the only reason I can afford the tools is because of all of you guys here. Thank you all for your help. ;-)

[Hammerhead]

See, I knew you would find the feeler gauge set...

Here is another option for the injector pre-load torque wrench https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FMXEWQ...SY340_QL65
I carry this one with me in the truck because it has no needles or dials to vibrate apart while along for the ride. It is just as accurate as my MAC dial type one. For the price, you can but a couple.

Member 8042 has a Prostar as well, and yup my fat belly made # 5 & 6 fun as well, neither one of us is small. A mirror is definitely the way to go. Also, wash the "doghouse" of the firewall really well before doing anything with the rocker cover off. It is darn near impossible to not knock some dust off while your in there. An old towel or large rag placed over the back part of the engine, and removed only when doing those cyl's wouldn't be a bad idea.

[Waterloo]

Doing that, large plastic garbage bag covering everything. And cool on that little beam wrench. 10-4 on the doghouse, she is clean under there, just had her washed. And the belly, man I tried crawling back there, oh man!

[JMBT]

My brother and I did mine together a few times ago. He stood on one tire and me on the tire on opposite side. I would loosen the locknut and place the feeler gauge he would bring the adjuster down and hold it in place while I torqued the locknut back. We are both thin and still played hell reaching number six on my Volvo. It’s like a foot under the f@$king cab!!!

[Rawze]

(10-22-2017 )Waterloo Wrote:  ...
wondering how accurate this will be at 8 in/lbs for the injectors
...

ITS 8 NEWTON METERS!!! --> that is 71 inch-pounds!!!

[Rawze]

I have no idea why he didn't bother to stop by here and let me show him how its done. It is not rocket science. Most people waaay over think this job when they do it. I have also never had any kind of problem adjusting the #5 or #6 on any truck, even with my fat arsse. Also, in all actuality, the only set screw you have to hold in place while tightening the lock-nut is the small one for the engine brake. The injector set screw is tight enough that it will not turn on its own when torquing the lock nut. For the intake and exhaust set screws, there really is no need to hold them in place either when tightening the lock nut. This is especially true if you use a 0.015" on the intake valves and 0.028" on the exhaust valves. Just run the screw down finger tight, feeler gauge is snug, tighten the lock-nut to the specified torque. If you can get the feeler gauge out from under the rocker head by hand when it is all torqued and set, your good to go. All that wishy-0washy "gotta have a certain specific amount of drag to the feeler gauge" is complete bulls$it. Its a big clunky diesel engine, not a hinda civic.