POR 15 |
03-13-2018, (Subject: POR 15 ) Post: #10 | |||
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RE: POR 15 Not advertising for por15 but just think the word should be speed because it's great s@*^ User's Signature: Little fish in a big pond. | |||
03-29-2018, (Subject: POR 15 ) Post: #11 | |||
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RE: POR 15 Well, this post jumped the tracks from paint to 5th wheels just like that. But,I did rebuild my 5th wheel with the kit. (Jost-real easy). And I bought some POR 15 paint today, as well. Thanks for the info. | |||
03-30-2018, (Subject: POR 15 ) Post: #12 | |||
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RE: POR 15 I'm still on the fence. It's por15, rust bullet or chassis saver. I do plan on doing the 5th wheel at the same time, as well as run new air lines, spring eye bushings and the like. My top plate is a little rough, and while it could be rebuilt, would rather replace it. That'll be a next winter project. For now, I just rebuilt the steering axle wheel ends. I'll be doing front springs, cab mounts, torque rods, shocks and alignment here next. I believe in being thorough. I want this thing to last awhile. User's Signature: 2010 T2000, CM871, 13spd, 977k, tanker yanker Overhauled @ 927k | |||
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03-30-2018, (Subject: POR 15 ) Post: #13 | |||
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RE: POR 15 (03-30-2018 )dhirocz Wrote: I'm still on the fence. It's por15, rust bullet or chassis saver. I had some rust bullet from about 10 years ago, but it was solid. It's good stuff. | |||
04-01-2018, (Subject: POR 15 ) Post: #14 | |||
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RE: POR 15 Ok, so i had some time(bored:)) so i broke out the grinder and started to get to it..... after 2 hrs or so of grinding off the rusted spots on the frame and rear diff,and parts of the 5th wheel. WOW!!! it was worse than i thought... damn mag chloride :( but i had a little can of por15 gloss black to use up, and it was just enough to do the job. all nice and shiny now. hope it holds up as well as it looks.. User's Signature: hard to go 60 mph when the winds blowing 65+ in WY | |||
04-01-2018, (Subject: POR 15 ) Post: #15 | |||
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RE: POR 15 (04-01-2018 )stevesparts Wrote: Ok, so i had some time(bored:)) so i broke out the grinder and started to get to it..... after 2 hrs or so of grinding off the rusted spots on the frame and rear diff,and parts of the 5th wheel. WOW!!! it was worse than i thought... damn mag chloride :( but i had a little can of por15 gloss black to use up, and it was just enough to do the job. all nice and shiny now. hope it holds up as well as it looks.. It goes on shiny, but will dull in the sunlight. You have to cover it with something else. | |||
04-01-2018, (Subject: POR 15 ) Post: #16 | |||
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RE: POR 15 Are you guys stripping all the brackets and stuff off of the frame to coat it, or just giving it a quickie? I like being very thorough, but that's alot of stuff to move/remove to get the the entire bare frame behind the cab. I normally sand blast things like that, but they all say to not remove all the rust...so I'm looking at adding a needle scaler to my toolbox just for this. User's Signature: 2010 T2000, CM871, 13spd, 977k, tanker yanker Overhauled @ 927k | |||
04-02-2018, (Subject: POR 15 ) Post: #17 | |||
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RE: POR 15 I did a quickie and knocked off the rusted area with a 1/4 air tool with a wire brush head in it just to get rid of the loose parts and pieces. and give the por-15 something to hold on too..as thats what i had on hand to use. had i thought about it i would have gone out and got a bigger grinder for the flatter spots on the frame..... next time i will do that and clean it up better but i did this cus i had the time/ bored and had it sitting around so i thought i'd give it a shot as it look pretty bad from this winter.. Well off to get the parts i wish i had this weekend to fix my trailer :) Mrkentee thanks for the tip on it fading,it's mostly under the trl. but i might clear coat it but that's for the next time i really dig into it :) User's Signature: hard to go 60 mph when the winds blowing 65+ in WY | |||
04-02-2018, (Subject: POR 15 ) Post: #18 | |||
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RE: POR 15 I live 15 or so miles from whats said to be the second saltiest body of water besides the Dead Sea. Around here, Ospho Rust Converter is great for treating rust. So is regular old household Vinegar if you can submerge the rusted part in the vinegar for 1/2 a day to a day or so. The time will vary depending on the severity of the rust as well as the % of acetic acid in your vinegar. I did por15 on a frame off freshen up job (gmc syclone pickup) back in 2005 or so. Held up well. Not to take anything away from por15 but we now use 2 part Epoxy paint for any semi truck projects that need black paint. Unbelievably durable paint that's compared to a baked-on porcelain finish. No primer required. I suppose por15 is a better choice or more convenient for maintenance touch up work. I remember por15 was really thick stuff when I worked with it. I applied it with a brush just like we do the epoxy paint. below's a link of the last stuff I bought. They use it on offshore oil rigs. It was not cheap but not too expensive either. You need to move fast when applying because it dries really fast! You can smack this paint with a small sledge and you'll have trouble chipping it after fully cured. like they say, just my two cents. http://www.ppgpmc.com/Products/P064/AMERCOAT-370.aspx here's a link to the Ospho https://www.walmart.com/ip/OSPHO-Rust-Tr...3=&veh=sem edit: here's a link to a video that shows how vinegar deals with rust. the video in the link is dealing with a metal part that is barely surface rusted. This is a much longer project for real rust. the stuff I've done took as long as 2 days in some cases. You cant leave the part in vinegar for too long for the particular job though. The acid can eat into your metal if you over do it or don't keep tabs on it. when I've done it, it puts on a little smokey bubble show in some cases. the acid really goes after the rust first. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlcL_vHODkc | |||
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