Coolant coming out reservoir and WP leak

[Skman]

Ive got a 2013 KW with isx and started getting a running leak that i thought was coming from the plastic reservoir tank. So I changed the tank and filled it up. Then i started it up and watched the coolant slowly make its way to the overflow side of the tank and drip coolant. I also noticed my water pump is dripping.
Took it out and ran it for a short load (about 200 miles) and had to add about 1.5 gallons of AF. There is dried coolant on front of the engine and a little on the sides.
There is no overheating, no white exhaust, oil looks good, and tank is not getting oily inside.
I hooked a small hose to the overflow cap on the tank and dipped it in water to check for head gasket leak but couldnt get any bubbles. I also figured if it was the air compressor putting air into the systen that this test should show that as well?
I know for sure the Water pump is dripping but could that be what is making such a mess? Why would it be causing AF to come from the pressure relief cap?
Any ideas?

(Edit to add that truck was de-mandated a few years ago)

[Rawze]

I would suggest a trip and appointment with Mr. Hags and see what it really is,.. also to get the de-mandate checked out to see what was done to it.

[Skman]

Where is Mr Hags located? I’m in Saskatchewan Canada

[Waterloo]

(05-04-2018 )Skman Wrote:  Where is Mr Hags located? I’m in Saskatchewan Canada

If that was you that just talked to Rawze tonight, instead of driving all the way down to Atlanta GA area, PM Unilever, they have a shop not far from you, he is just as good as Mr Haggai. I would trust either of them with my truck. He is a good friend of both Rawze and Mr Hagg. Unilever is a mechanic and programmer.

[Brock]

The bubble test will only show the compressor to be the issue if the compressor is building air. Make sure your cap is on and run your hose from your overflow tube. Problem is the PACCAR pressure relief caps are 13 psi caps so you need to let the system build over 13 psi before the bubble test would even start.

Let the truck run a while and get nice and hot, then if it starts bubbling pull the air output line off the compressor (line to air drier) and see if it still bubbles. Your compressor will constantly run with that line off but that's fine.

If when you warm up the motor and do the bubble test, it doesn't bubble.... Press the brakes a bunch to lower your air and get your compressor kicking in and then look to see if the bubbles are present.

[Skman]

(05-05-2018 )Brock Wrote:  The bubble test will only show the compressor to be the issue if the compressor is building air. Make sure your cap is on and run your hose from your overflow tube. Problem is the PACCAR pressure relief caps are 13 psi caps so you need to let the system build over 13 psi before the bubble test would even start.

Let the truck run a while and get nice and hot, then if it starts bubbling pull the air output line off the compressor (line to air drier) and see if it still bubbles. Your compressor will constantly run with that line off but that's fine.

If when you warm up the motor and do the bubble test, it doesn't bubble.... Press the brakes a bunch to lower your air and get your compressor kicking in and then look to see if the bubbles are present.

I took an extra coolant tank cap and tapped a pressure gauge into it. Ran the engine til it was warmed up and run it through different RPM ranges up to 1400 and couldn't get more than 12lbs of pressure on the gauge and never moved over into the overflow part of the tank.
I also pumped down the brakes and checked the pressure gauge with compressor running and no change...12lbs.
Next morning...my driver starts the truck and warms up a few mins then drives about half a block to the cardlock to fuel up...and it's pissing out the pressure cap already.
I'm grabbing a water pump tomorrow in Lloydminster and will change that at least once it is leaking. It started leaking at the same time that this coolant tank issue started.

[Brock]

That's because you used a rad cap but did you block the pressure relief cap? Sounds to me like the pressure relief cap was doing it's job and relieving the pressure at 12psi.

Your wasting your money on a water pump, I promise you. The water pump is leaking because the excessive pressure blew out the seals..... I literally just wen through this with my Pete. 12psi is higher than your cooling system should run.



Put a hose from this pressure relief into a bottle of coolant and you should see bubbles when it warms up and pressures up. I bet when your pressure gauge is up at 12psi, you'll see bubbles in your bottle like in my video here...

https://youtu.be/k-pgt5WgCaU

This was my Pete that just blew the head gasket. I played the exact same game your playing now.

[Brock]

Besides the compressor, check the coolant lines on the suction side of the water pump, the lower rad hose is a suction line and g force in llyod ties in to that pipe if running coolant heat trace lines to a product pump, if one of those lines got rotted out.... It'll suck air into your cooking system.

Odds are this is not your problem but it's worth looking into.

[Brock]

Just for the record, I had my trucks in llyod, I'm from stoon born and raised but now out in grande praire..... I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt the worst mechanics I've ever met in my life are in llyod!

Unilevers is in camrose and going to see him and the guys and girls at on track would be the best thing you ever did! My mind was absolutely blown when I went there, and don't for one second think it's just some small town shop, the owners got a company story that's worth hearing!

My Pete was rebuilt at llyod peterbilt, didn't last a year. They cut corners and I'm 90% sure they resold me my own head as a reman. They put in Chinese parts and couldn't diagnose the issue when I told them it wasn't running right afterwards.