Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from isx15 Engines

[same101us]

I have a Cummins isx15 CM2250 that drop a valve and cracked the liner. It got so much coolant in to the oil that it is white. I have engine tore down and ready to put together so my question is. How do I flush the oil system to get rid of the coolant in oil cooler and or where ever contaminated oil is?

[Waterloo]

Brake cleaner? That is what I used on mine. If it is really bad, you may want to buy a five gallon pail of the stuff and use a sprayer. That is if EVERYTHING is out, and you do not have any bearings installed yet. Clean the oil passages in the block, there are four, two at the front, two at the back. Get under the block and spray spray spray. Get the crank real good too. If you are outdoors, we used CorrosionX on all exposed prone to rust parts after the brake cleaner treatment. https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-90104...n+x+marine

Good Luck!

[same101us]

Is there a procedure to flush oil system when engine is put together?

[imalumberjack]

I am not recommending but this is what I have used. water and dish soap (dawn) in coolant side I always pulled the thermostats so it had flow, let it run then drain and repeat until clean. On oil side? I have an ISX 12 so it may be designed different but I pulled the oil filter base and there is a main passage for the oil, I used my fuel pump in back of pickup with diesel, I was able to cut a piece of rubber hose that fit on nozzele and into the main port and I flushed about 7-8 gallons through the system then drain it from pan. When I had clean fuel (I was looking for metal and contaminants) I flushed with 5 wt oil to push diesel out. Please realize I was going further into engine! I installed new mains and rods I also removed oil cooler along with jakes and racks.
Before you do this make sure you get other advice!!!!!! I would not do it on a assembled engine, without considering the consequences!!!!

[same101us]

I have engine apart. Head, oil pan, and turbo are of the engine. Would it be a problem if I assemble engine and run it with cheap 15w40 than drain it and fill it again with new oil?

[Waterloo]

What are you doing? Did you already do the in frame? New liners, pistons, bearings, etc? I'm scratching my head here? Because that is when you should have cleaned the motor out, during the tear down.

Or are you still in tear down mode? If what you said happened, valve and liner, you will need a new head and an in frame kit, and have the block machined. Please explain where you are at in this, what you have done and where are you in the process.

[imalumberjack]

(06-16-2018 )Waterloo Wrote:  What are you doing? Did you already do the in frame? New liners, pistons, bearings, etc? I'm scratching my head here? Because that is when you should have cleaned the motor out, during the tear down.

Or are you still in tear down mode? If what you said happened, valve and liner, you will need a new head and an in frame kit, and have the block machined. Please explain where you are at in this, what you have done and where are you in the process.

I'm thinking he just replaced the bad liner and repaired head? Waterloo how bout if he used the same method as you when you prelubed your engine? maybe pushing some light oil through?

[imalumberjack]

(06-16-2018 )same101us Wrote:  I have engine apart. Head, oil pan, and turbo are of the engine. Would it be a problem if I assemble engine and run it with cheap 15w40 than drain it and fill it again with new oil?

Glycol has a tendency to be sticky ....it can cause a spun bearing. If it were me I think I would pull the oil cooler and replace or at least flush to make sure its clean (I think the oil cooler would be the biggest holder of oil), then I would still try to push a few gallons of oil through system before a start, then start and run and then change oil again.

[same101us]

I am still tearing it down. Engine was rebuilt 2 months before it dropped a valve. I am planning on just replacing the cracked liner, piston, injector and the head.