Cylinder head wear...

[un_yun]

I'd replace the cam and any rollers that don't pass inspection. As far a bearings go, well I'd probably replace them too. Per cummins they can run as long as copper is no more than 180* of the inside of the bearing. I don't know that I would worry about the head if it was running good, with no oil or coolant loss.

[Rawze]

(07-06-2017 )un_yun Wrote:  I'd replace the cam and any rollers that don't pass inspection. As far a bearings go, well I'd probably replace them too. Per cummins they can run as long as copper is no more than 180* of the inside of the bearing. I don't know that I would worry about the head if it was running good, with no oil or coolant loss.

I have also seen many times where injector cam bearings worn will cause oil seepage out of the front of the head behind the gear train. That is always a good indicator that they are done even before taking anything apart.

(07-06-2017 )Hammerhead Wrote:  ...

With a higher mileage engine, and since you're not doing rods & mains at this time, I suggest 9 dimes. Valve guide seals, good call since you're already in this far. Enjoy your wonderful weekend.
...

It sounds like a good idea to increase oil pressure on an old engine but there are risks. I would suggest 8 dimes at most on an old engine actually. 6 being more on the safe side, or 6 on an engine with only one overhead cam. The reason is that I have seen a few where the flywheel housing starts to leak after increasing oil pressure. This is because the gaskets are old too and the extra oil pressure is extra strain on this gasket. The more you increase oil pressure, the higher the risk of it suddenly starting to leak.

Here is that cross-channel. Only the rear flywheel housing gasket stops it from leaking and there is a lot of oil pressure in this area...
   

A second reason for this area to leak oil on the engine is where the engine has been driven very hard, or if someone has the horsepower turned up high on one. The rear engine mounts are on the housing, not the engine block, and the strain on it can be immense if the HP is up or someone is always driving the truck hard. The flywheel housing is also cast aluminum too, and tends to have a lot of give to it on its own under high torque. Almost seems like a weak-point in torque transfer to me but what do I know eh?

This is also the most common place, but also worst possible place that I can think of to get an oil leak after increasing oil pressure by shimming the pump. A person would have to drop the front of the drive-shaft, then remove the shifter, transmission, clutch, flywheel, oil pan, starter + disconnect batteries, jack the engine up and support it by the bottom of the engine block itself (hence removing the oil pan), also remove the rear main seal, motor mounts, the flywheel housing, then finally get to the gasket --- all just to stop this leak.

[dhirocz]

Sounds like next time I get a clutch done I'll plan on springing for this to be changed too. I thought it was just the rear main back there. Learn something new every day!

Makes an out of frame rebuild more appealing. Talk about a helluva job!

[dhirocz]

I gotta tell you guys, this has been an interesting week.
I've been digging into my engine for the last week and a half now. With all the new parts it should run like a champ.
As someone who has built engines before(just not quite as big as an isx), I see why they cost so much to inframe for the labor in a way. At the same time, I'm pretty happy now for the single fact that now I'm familiar with it's guts and how it goes together and comes apart. It's no longer intimidating to me at all and I have the tools to do the work.
I'm still pretty pissed my company put me into this position, I'm just trying to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Oh well. Tomorrow I'm doing the oil cooler for good measure since it's showing signs it's starting to leak, then I'll fire it up. See if that light at the end of the tunnel is a train or not.
I think the hardest part is really dealing with the rusted and broken bolts around the front of the truck that I've had to replace, and all the sockets I broke taking it apart!
I noticed that when I changed my cooling nozzles, they are a different design from the original...upgraded part I guess?

[Nilao]

I think the newer design is to help keep them from moving and getting out of place. That plastic tab looked like a weak point to me. Now there's a lot more surface area to help keep it from rotating in the new design.

[Diesel_Pusher]

(07-06-2017 )dhirocz Wrote:  .015 it is.

I already cleaned all of the other rockers and verified they were flowing with brake cleaner. The Jake's will be getting new springs too before I reinstall the assemblies.

My main concern is putting this thing back together and it not making it that far, like dropping a valve. I have no indication that the head gasket leaks or the head is cracked. I'm just concerned that #1 stopped rolling perhaps because there was no more clearance due to sunken valve seats. It may be that, or metal flaked on the cam and wedged the between the lobe and the roller. That lobe did have streaks in it.

The last thing I want is to get a couple weeks out of it and drop a valve.

I already have some 85-140 GL to put in it, and have new Cummins cam bearings and the appropriate driver. It'll be my first time putting them in an isx to be honest, but certainly not my first time ever.

I did notice that the center injector cam bearings have no lube passage. I'm assuming they use the puddled oil between the rocker stands and rely on the bottom of the cam bearings to be submerged? Found it kind of odd Cummins didn't see fit to put a lube passage under the center injector cam bearings like there is for the valve cam.

Tomorrow I'll be setting the cam timing, shimming the oil pump with 8 dimes and swapping out o rings and valve stem seals. Trying to get this done before my wonderful weekend on ft Stewart.

I want to do the head around thanksgiving this year, as well as a piston and liner kit so I can call it done and know what is in my engine. I found a company in PA that's supposed to have a superior casting dohc head( jury isn't in on that yet), new for $3500. I just need to get myself out of this hole my company isn't helping me out of like I was assured they would.

Then I'd like to meet up with you to sort out this ECM, rawze.

Would you mind sharing the name of the company with new replacement heads for a DOHC ISX??? thanx, D.P.

[Diesel_Pusher]

(07-06-2017 )dhirocz Wrote:  Hammerhead, that sounds just like what I told my wife. While it pisses me off, it's experience. Experience is knowledge. I'm being sort of forced to do this to stay profitable per my business model. As a diy kind of guy, I welcome the opportunity to learn how to rely on myself more and profiteers less, again, per my business model. That's why I'm here. Otherwise I'd be driving that new Pete right now.

That superior casting is just that, a claim. I'm tempted to ask if they have a cross section of that head and photos comparing it to an OEM head. If you want I can pm you the info. Either way I have a hard time listening to anyone who is trying to sell me stuff.

Good point on the #1 rocker. I did notice it was higher up there. Didn't connect the dots on that one.

I'm looking for a new head for my 2000 ISX cm570. I'd appreciate a name on the new head you mentioned??? thanx, D.P.

[Nostalgic]

(09-11-2018 )Diesel_Pusher Wrote:  I'm looking for a new head for my 2000 ISX cm570. I'd appreciate a name on the new head you mentioned??? thanx, D.P.

If you dig, you can find the name in my Pete Rebuild thread. That said, I can't or won't mention the name again anywhere else until I have at least over 500k of trouble free miles on it. Sucks for them because it's going to be a while lol, but I won't give anyone advertisement based on claims alone.

[dhirocz]

I can agree to that. I chose not to go that route because there were too many unknowns for me...I'm going with a new Cummins head.