2013 PETERBILT CAB SHOCK REPLACEMENT.

[13petehoneytruck]

Got the cab shock off the driver's side of the sleeper but had to grind through the bolt on the top mount to get it out because the bolt had actually seated to the sleeve of the shock itself. I was able to loosen the longer bolt for the bottom mount of the passenger side cab shock but because it has also seated to the sleeve of the shock I can only spin the bolt inside the rubber bushings of the old shock. I was able to pull the head of the bolt away from it's mount by about 1/8" so I was thinking about using a tie rod separator to continue pulling it out with the help of several washers that could act as pusher spacers in tandem with the tie rod separator. I would need to cut in half about 7 1/2" of flat washers to accomplish this but then realized the seated collar and bolt on the shock would not allow this because the shock sleeve cannot pass though the mount bracket. Now I am considering removing the frame mount which is three bolts along with the torsion bar that is also mounted with the passenger side cab shock. I thought if I could accomplish this I would take the entire assembly to a machine shop to have the bolt pressed out and simply replace it with a new bolt as I am having to do with two other bolts for these cab shock mounts. Only the bottom bolt on the driver's side cab mount came out with ease. If anyone has replaced cab shocks on a 2013 587 Peterbilt any advice would be appreciated. This job has really turned into a challenge but having new cab shocks on this rig is necessary as the passenger side shock is blown out.

[imalumberjack]

Use a lot of pb blaster? if you have the room to cut on both sides with an die grinder? can you drill bolt from each side? maybe a picture?

[13petehoneytruck]

(02-17-2019 )imalumberjack Wrote:  Use a lot of pb blaster? if you have the room to cut on both sides with an die grinder? can you drill bolt from each side? maybe a picture?

[13petehoneytruck]

Copy using a lot of pb blaster. I soaked her down 6 times yesterday with penetrating oil. I got the other bolts out by grinding the ends down on both sides and prying out the old bolt. I do have room on both sides to grind down the bolt. Drilling is an option I did not consider. Just don't want to remove too much metal in the mount bracket itself by doing that though. That process I will think about. I am going to attempt my tie rod separator option in tandem with a punch and mallet. Still trying to figure out how to get pictures on this laptop from my phone. I will post a picture when I got it figured out. Thanks for your thoughts.

[imalumberjack]

(02-17-2019 )13petehoneytruck Wrote:  Copy using a lot of pb blaster. I soaked her down 6 times yesterday with penetrating oil. I got the other bolts out by grinding the ends down on both sides and prying out the old bolt. I do have room on both sides to grind down the bolt. Drilling is an option I did not consider. Just don't want to remove too much metal in the mount bracket itself by doing that though. That process I will think about. I am going to attempt my tie rod separator option in tandem with a punch and mallet. Still trying to figure out how to get pictures on this laptop from my phone. I will post a picture when I got it figured out. Thanks for your thoughts.

You want to cut on inside of bracket ...between shock and inside of bracket?

[Rawze]

side grinder or dremmel tool and some cut-off blades on the bolts is how I deal with stuff like that. - Buy new bolts.

Next time, use anti-seize on everything + don't wait half a million miles+ before replacing shocks?,. - Just some advice.

[Chamberpains]

Cut off wheel is the best if you can get it in to where you need it but I just jump straight to the Blue wrench and shielding. IE: torch and some sort of shield to keep sparks from burning air bags, air lines and and electrical.