C15 6nz Inframe time

[multitask]

Hi Gents,

She’s finally gave in...

Few days back it started pushing coolant out of the overflow tube. So we went and bought one of those combustion leak detector kit, gave that a crack and it didn’t detect anything. Being all excited went for a drive she was all good.

The following day brother picks up a load while driving it started again! So seems to only push coolant out once under load and maybe that’s why the leak kit didn’t detect anything?

Anyway to be certain we isolated the compressor by blocking the 2 coolant hoses (inlet/outlet) ran overflow tube into a bucket of water reved it for a few minutes and yep she pushed coolant through and started bubbling pretty bad.

I was devastated that truck has served us well, it’s a Freightliner century and the only parts I’ve changed on it over the course of 7-8 years is an oil cooler, clutch, uni, front pins/bushes, hand brake valve not to mention fix and repair the weak poorly designed plastic dash parts, bonnet mount and last but not least injector cups and valve bridge. That was a sign the cylinder head is toast!

My heart tells me it’s the head but could be dropped liner, either way Tuesday dropping her off to a friends friend that used to work at Cat many years ago and started on his own. I don’t have the time or tools to do it, like counterbore etc, plus it’s more the downtime we are losing on.

Thought I’ll post this thread so I can get some advice on the rebuild process and what you guys recommend? Any tips appreciated.

I’m thinking {name removeed} piston liner kit? Or pay abit extra for genuine?
Head should we go new or reco it if it’s not cracked? Been hearing horror stories from motors being built at our local Cat stealership, my mate bring one of them! He told me his truck vibrates through some of the rev range (c15 acert) spent big bucks also.
Forgot to mention we did the bearings about 200k ago should we change them again to be safe during the rebuild process?

We are thinking of only keeping this truck for another 6-12 months then selling it and sticking with the 2 western stars that have cm871 in them. Much nicer trucks to drive, easier to maintain only because of this site! Plus they are a lot quieter and more fuel efficient. Thing is I know if we rebuild the cat right she will serve us good again. Another thing I hate is the flimsy cabin parts on those Freightliner’s it’s like they were built on the same line as Hyundai passenger cars!

Anyway just want to give a shout out to Rawze for hosting this site haha, I’m about to hit the ‘post thread’ button without proof reading, so excuse any grammar or spelling mistakes. Eyes are starting to hurt using this little iPhone.

Thanks

[tree98]

On another Cat thread UNI said {name removeed} makes some quality parts. Get a genuine cat BRAND NEW head NOT REMAN. And take it straight to the machine shop and check it for flatness. Seems Cat's quality control has gone down hill the past while. I'll try to find that thread and put a link here for you, UNI had the whole list of which parts to buy from cat and which from {name removeed}.

[Brock]

There are brand new heads being made/sold out of Portland.... complete junk!! I unknowingly called the owner out on a cat facebook group and he said they did have bad luck the first go around but have since found their flaws and are having great luck with the new ones......

I personally wouldn't risk it, I dont care how many idiots agree with him on a Facebook group.... most will agree with anyone who sounds like they know what they are talking about. I'd personally go Cat reman or just bring your head to a local head shop.

[multitask]

Tree98 I do remember seeing a thread Uni saying his had luck with IPD parts, sweet mate let me know if you find the thread on what parts {name removeed} and which genuine I’ll do some research also.

Brock might have to agree on you with that one was thinking local shop, my brother knows someone that works there. Didn’t you do an inframe once? If so how you going with it? Anything you would of done different?

The mechanic did say {name removeed} are better of the bunch but apparently having problems with their liners is this true? His pushing me to go genuine but said entirely up to me, plus I’ll rather take advice from the guys on this forum.

[Magard]

If you go ipd. Just make sure you mic. the liners. I had some short liners from them for Cummins. Custom shims anyway so it wasn’t a big deal. Just be diligent probably good practice even with oem parts. Quality control isn’t what it used to be anymore.

[Brock]

Also mic your spacer plate I've been told..

My c15 rebuild turned into a nightmare, the mechanic lied and didnt cut the counter bores and the head gasket blew twice in a month ao I tore it all apart to find the problem. It's been in pieces for about a year now waiting for me to build up enough bank and time to finish it, I've got all the pieces.

I used FP diesel liners and pistons, I like the Mahle pistons. I've heard guys complain about liners from them as well though.

[Brock]

Any advice I could give....

Dont cut corners. if you can afford to, spend extra money to do it proper. Always buy a new spacer plate, mic it to make sure it's true. Make damn sure the counter bores are done right to your 6 thou by someone who knows what they are doing, that is by par the most important step!! I would also not reuse head bolts. They aren't cheap but neither is redoing a head gasket from a squirming head.

[multitask]

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[tree98]

(08-18-2019 )multitask Wrote:  {**Content removed by protection bot** - suspected spamming.}

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Does that coating really matter though? Rawze's pistons showed hardly any wear after almost a million miles. I'm not saying those are bad pistons, just wondering if it's a marketing thing.