Clutch replacement 870 without help

[tree98]

Yup going to be replacing my clutch and re sealing the rear structure. I probably won't have much help if any. I've been watching YouTube videos on clutch replacement and it seems like there are two different ways to install the clutch once the trans is out. One is to bolt it to the flywheel and then re install the trans. The other is to stack the clutch pieces on the input shaft of the trans then re install it and bolt the clutch to the flywheel through the access hole on the bottom of the trans barring the engine over to screw in each bolt. The videos did it the first way, but a lot of the comments said the second way is much much easier. What do you guys think is the best way?

[Signature620]

I always put the clutch on the input shaft. That way you only have to line up the tip of the input shaft and the spigot bearing, not the entire assembly. You also need much less clearance behind the box to do it that way as it won't have to come back so far before it's clear to lower.

[tree98]

(08-27-2019 )Signature620 Wrote:  I always put the clutch on the input shaft. That way you only have to line up the tip of the input shaft and the spigot bearing, not the entire assembly. You also need much less clearance behind the box to do it that way as it won't have to come back so far before it's clear to lower.

So you unbolt the clutch from the flywheel before you slide the trans back to disassemble as well as assemble? That sounds good to, less weight to have to wrestle down by hand.

[Hammerhead]

(08-27-2019 )Signature620 Wrote:  I always put the clutch on the input shaft. That way you only have to line up the tip of the input shaft and the spigot bearing, not the entire assembly. You also need much less clearance behind the box to do it that way as it won't have to come back so far before it's clear to lower.

(08-27-2019 )tree98 Wrote:  So you unbolt the clutch from the flywheel before you slide the trans back to disassemble as well as assemble? That sounds good to, less weight to have to wrestle down by hand.

Yes and Yes.
Step 1: Mark the bolt holes with the pattern #/order before you put the clutch shell onto the pilot shaft! Trying to figure out the pattern order through the inspection hole sucks when you're both barring and watching...cause you can't do both at the same time!

I have done it both ways, and unless I'm doing it on a 379 long hood, which has prolly the most back of tranny underside room, I prefer to put the clutch on the input shaft and put it in all together. You may find that you have to go "a little higher" than you think to get the pilot to slip into the pilot bearing because the weight of the clutch will pull the input shaft lower.
Start the bolts, but don't quite bottom them as you're going. Once all the bolts are in, I like to bar the motor 2 complete revolutions to make sure that the clutch centers nicely. After the first, I finger tighten them, then one more full rotation. Torque in sequence as per procedure.

I'm a short armed fat bastard and I can do it myself, so you got this. Some of the bolts are a PIA because of my reach limitations, just need to use a little grease in a socket with an extension and develop patience, or curse like mad. I do both.

[Mr Hagg]

you should never install a clutch on the input shaft unless there is NOWAY to do it other wise. The best way is to install it with a line up shaft and some guide pins. Then you can tighten it evenly. And torque it to spec. Doing it the other way you take a Hugh chance of not bolting it up true and having a vibration and or premature failure of clutch. Now for someone who has done them a million times they know what they are looking for and have to rotate the engine several times to get tighten up correctly. I have done it before when I did a clutch with a fine splin input shaft and no one had a line up shaft for several days. But it was a job to do....

[Chamberpains]

To make guide pins just take your original bolts that you took out of the clutch down to your hardware store and buy ones that are about an inch or so longer and cut the heads off of them.

Like mr. Hagg said you'll also need a dummy input shaft to line up the splines in the clutch. More than likely you'll be replacing the input shaft in the transmission when you do this job because the clutch discs will have worn into it from vibration. so just use your old input shaft.

[tree98]

(08-27-2019 )Chamberpains Wrote:  Like mr. Hagg said you'll also need a dummy input shaft to line up the splines in the clutch. More than likely you'll be replacing the input shaft in the transmission when you do this job because the clutch discs will have worn into it from vibration. so just use your old input shaft.

I'll be replacing the entire trans also. I guess they probably won't need the old input shaft with the core because you say it's most likely worn. Ok well that answers the question of where do I get an old input shaft.

[tree98]

You guys use red loctite to bolt the flywheel to the crank? What about for the clutch to the flywheel?

[Chamberpains]

I never have. Proper torque in proper sequence has always held up for me. They don't need the input shaft for core. And you'll also be swapping the bellhousing and output yoke.