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dhirocz

Im finding a variety of answers on this, and want to make sure whatever I do, I get it right.

My truck had a clutch put in it over 200k ago. Its not acting up, but I want to make sure it stays that way.

Recently I dropped the fluid and replaced the filter. Made a huge difference in noise, the fluid that came out was pretty nasty. I already replaced 2 rod ends that were worn out and the shifter bushings as well. I still have some clutch pedal noise (clutch out, engine under load) after it warms up. Sounds like a light knock like a loud compressor, until you put your foot on the pedal.

Im trying to determine the correct way to adjust both the clutch linkage and the clutch itself. When I last adjusted the linkage, I adjusted it until it was loose, then took up just a tiny bit of slack so it wouldnt rattle.

Finally, the rod ends from KW are far more expensive and cheaper quality than some from Grainger, for example. Anybody upgrade to sealed or booted rod ends with zerks on them? They also carry some stainless.

All I know is its an eaton RTOC16909 up converted to a 13. The clutch was part of my fix it list prior to buying the truck, and I am unsure what was used to replace the worn out one when I bought it.

bwake

Basic adjustments: The primary measurements that need to be made on a clutch is the gap between the clutch brake and throw out bearing. This is the adjustment that is made when you adjust the clutch itself and the gap should be between 1/2 and 9/16 of an inch and should be completed first. This can be measured with a 5/16 and 3/8 bolt using the hex portion of the bolt head. The other measurement that needs to be checked is the gap between the forks and the throw out bearing. This is the adjustment that will be made with the clutch linkage rods and should measure out at 1/8 of an inch at the forks/bearing. This will give you roughly 1 to 2 inches of free travel in the cab as well as enough clutch brake when it's needed. It sounds like you have it covered but any wear in the forks, linkages, etc will mess with being able to properly get this thing in adjustment.
Solo clutch: The measurements are going to be the same but in theory the clutch is supposed to adjust itself as the clutch discs wear. There is a sliding tab on the pressure plate that can be manually adjusted but again, in theory it shouldn't need to be done. Just make sure that the 1/2 to 9/16 gap is there. The only thing that will need to be adjusted is the linkage to take up the gap in the forks as the clutch adjusts itself.

For the clutch pedal noise, make sure that you are keeping the throw out bearing greased properly. There will either be a zerk on the bearing itself or there will be a hose with a zerk on it coming from the same location. Dry bearings will cause you some serious issues in short order.

dhirocz

That gives me a start. Seems my linkage is too tight. I have less than 1/2" of free play at the pedal.

I grease the hell out of this thing when I can. No chance Im running it dry. It does seem to me like I have a rattle in the bellcrank under the cab though, it gets much better when its freshly greased and comes back within a couple thousand miles. Time to order some parts.

Wish they sold a linkage kit for these things, and not being stuck ordering individual pieces from the dealership.