New Turbo & Actuator, 3 miles down , new camshaft??

[smorgan87]

1st and foremost get the hell out of that stealershit b4 they rob u blind (wait, they already did.) By the snds of it u need a complete inframe. Where in MO?

[bookerjt]

(12-26-2019 )smorgan87 Wrote:  1st and foremost get the hell out of that stealershit b4 they rob u blind (wait, they already did.) By the snds of it u need a complete inframe. Where in MO?

Freightliner Foristell, Mo
West of St. Louis on the 70

[Chamberpains]

Hold up, dont just throw overhaul at the OP. None of you have any more details then what little they posted.

Can we get some mileage or hrs on the engine. Any known facts on the truck. Previously overhauled? Head replaced? Symptoms besides the 1 time code of high crankcase pressure. That could be a simple filter restriction. Was smoke chugging out the oil fill tube or breather when it was running? High oil consumption? Coolant in the oil?

The cam is probably shot. That's a simple visual inspection. You can simply look at it and see a lobe on it scrubbed or scored. It won't look like the rest. But that alone doesn't warrant an overhaul.

How did this new shop test for blow by on those cylinders? Dyno?

[tree98]

You're gonna need insite and an inline adapter to get the best help here. Otherwise you have to trust what they(the dealer) are telling you the codes are.

[marek4792]

I'd get that j1939 fault checked out could very well be causing all your faults here.

[Rawze]

(12-25-2019 )bookerjt Wrote:  Hello, and ty for letting us join..Husband broke down in Mo. Freightliner said it's turbo and actuator, $7,000. K, it's a isx871 2010, which he got a couple of months ago..Guy was done within a day, took for test drive, then they called Jason (spouse) to come get keys..he drove it down the road to get his trailer, then proceeded to drive under load. Engine shut off came on. He limped it back down, the mechanic gone, new mechanic says $1,100 to diagnose, now needs new camshaft,$15,000. Seriously?? Excessive Crankcase Pressure?? What am I/he missing?

YOUR PROBLEM IS THAT YOU TOOK IT TO THE STEALERS$ITS ... THAT IS YOUR MISTAKE AND DOWNFALL FIRST AND FOREMOST!!!


--- AND YOU WILL NEVER HAVE 2 GODDAMN DIMES TO RUB TOGETHER AND ALWAYS BE BEHIND THE 8-BALL ON A TRUCK THESE DAYS, / BE RUN OUT OF BUSINESS IF YOU THINK FOR ONE DAMN MINUTE YOU CAN RUN OFF TO THE MOST EXPENSIVE, MOST RIP-YOU-OFF ANSD TAKE YOU FOR ALL YOU ARE WORTH OEM FACILITIES ON THE ROADWAYS !!!!! -- LEARN HOW TO OWN AND OPERATE THAT EQUIPMENT AND LEARN HOW TO DIAGNOSE AND FIX ON IT!!!!

---- $7,000 FOR A TURBO REPLACEMENT IS ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS!!!- THAT IS BEYOND F$$$3KING RIDICULOUS!!!!! - YOU GAVE AWAY NEARLY $5000 DOLLARS MORE THAN IT SHOULD HAVE COST YOU IF YOU KNEW WHAT YOU WERE DOING, AND WERE ABLE TO WORK ON THAT TRUCK YOURSELF LIKE YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO!!!-- DOES IT FEEL GOOD GIVING THAT MUCH MONEY AWAY JUST TO NOT GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY!!!???? -- I KNOW OF A LOT OF THINGS I CAN DO WITH $5,000 DOLLARS!

I would have disconnected my turbo and limped it bobtail 3,000+ miles to the house if I had to before I would spend that kind of money!.. I have actually done this before!

(That is a lot of money flushed down the toilet... If I had dropped my wallet into a toilet and flushed it by mistake, and it had $5,000 dollars cash in it, and it was gone forever .. I would literally be sick to my stomach for days!).

FIRST OF ALL,... DETERMINE FOR YOURSELF -- IF THE THING CAN BE SAFELY DRIVEN home or somewhere else! ...

remove the oil fill cap and see how much blo-by it has at idle...if it is not blasting out of the fill-tube, the engine is likely still drivable.

NEXT-- REPLACE THAT CRANK CASE FILTER-- This is one of the number one causes of turbo failures, and truck owners are notorious for not changing them often Enough -- or drilling it out, or putting in the maint. free filter to prevent this kind of damage.

-- more info on this: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...376#pid376
-- The maint. free filter -- http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...50#pid8950


-- IF YOU CAN GET It HOME--- GRAB A STINKING WRENCH AND LEARN HOW TO WORK ON IT OR GO OUT OF BUISNESS1!!!!--- TRUCKING IS NOT FOR PEOPLE WHO DON;T KNOW HOW TO REPLACE THINGS ON THEIR TRUCKS AND ENGINES ANY MORE--- YOU WILL GO BROKE--- GO BACK TO BEING A COMPANY DRIVER IF YOU CAN'T LEARN TO WORK ON THAT THING YOURSELF!!!

GET pictureS of the cams... post them here for some opinions... WATCH MY YOUTUBE VIDEOS AND GET BRAVE IF YOU HAVE TO -- BUT WHATEVER YOU DO... GET THE HELL AWAY FROM THAT OEM SHOP AS FAST AS YOU CAN AND AT THE VERY LEAST,... BECOME BETTER INFORMED ABOUT YOUR ACTUAL SITUATION BEFORE WASTING ANY MORE DAMN MONEY!!!

Lastly: miles, truck spec, more info please...

AND -- what has been done to the truck... how often are you doing EGR tune-up work and other things... How often you changing oil, and your fuel mileage? -- What are you doing to maintain it beside running off to the goddamn worst places you can take it? -- Do you even do any of your own work ti it?-- or have you just waited until s$it broke and wondered why you are getting ripped off all the time like a fool?

[bookerjt]

K, I'm sorry for not posting mileage, when he obtained the truck, etc. Between 400k-500k on the inframe, 1.1m on the chasis.
He obtained the truck 2 months ago.
He limped it 40 miles down the road, he was under load.
He told them to put his s#$t back together, watched Rawze's video afterwards.
Took load to destination near home, buying camshaft and filter, sensor, etc and getting his hands dirty.
Knew he f@&ked up, I read Rawze's 2013 info on Truckers Report about this.
He will be on here shortly. Pulling in the next half hour.
Here's cam lobes..he says they are pitted.

[bookerjt]

[Waterloo]

I don't know if this will pertain, but a couple of years ago I had the sensor fail on the Crankcase Pressure filter box. Thank GOD I had Insite and my laptop in my truck. That little sensor, when it failed, sounds exactly like what your husband experienced, red triangle, derate and shut down. The sensor is located on the Crankcase Filter box, right at the top, on the side facing the radiator, driver side of the motor. It is held in with a torx screw. I'm just guessing, but that is something to look at. If a dealer had gotten ahold of me with that issue, oh my it would have been expensive, and probably never fixed. They would had said in frame too, as they would have had an ill-informed sucker to financially rape at will.