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Mrkentee · 06-14-2016, **(Subject: Driveline stuff )**

I had a vibration in the driveline. #4 u-joint had side to side play. Figured I'd replace 2,3,4,& 5.
#1 was done last year. In the process I discovered the slip yoke behind the carrier bearing had too much play where the joint cap fits in. It just fell apart when it was unscrewed. The flat piece with the two holes in it had broken away from the cap itself, also. The little video here shows the play.
What I didn't expect was the difference in shifting, especially button downshifts. (13 speed)
If I didn't do it just right, it seemed to slam, and I hated it. I thought something was wrong with the trans. It's much better now.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yKL4k0ddSz...e=youtu.be

in2trux · 06-15-2016, **(Subject: Driveline stuff )**

North east roads beat the slip joints pretty bad. By 600 700k they probably need to be replaced .
A good driveshaft shop can cut, weld in new ones and balance in a few days.

We found out how important it was to have the right guy do the job.
The vibration was 10 times worse after it was done the first time, by 2nd string guy when the #1 man was on vacation. We put it up on jack stands and ran it and you could see the up and down movement. With a dial indicator it was a full 1/8" out ( .125+)

After it was redone by the right guy, smooth as silk.
Just remember to use new pinion nuts since the are one use only and stretch.

Mrkentee · 06-15-2016, **(Subject: Driveline stuff )**

(06-15-2016 )in2trux Wrote: North east roads beat the slip joints pretty bad. By 600 700k they probably need to be replaced .
A good driveshaft shop can cut, weld in new ones and balance in a few days.

We found out how important it was to have the right guy do the job.
The vibration was 10 times worse after it was done the first time, by 2nd string guy when the #1 man was on vacation. We put it up on jack stands and ran it and you could see the up and down movement. With a dial indicator it was a full 1/8" out ( .125+)

After it was redone by the right guy, smooth as silk.
Just remember to use new pinion nuts since the are one use only and stretch.

Plus I pull tankers. The guy at Fleetpride near me is real good. All it needed was the slip yoke. The other part was ok.

SquareOne · 03-28-2020, **(Subject: Driveline stuff )**

Old thread, but still applies...... getting a slight driveline vibration starting between 35-45ish mph. Due to the type of vibration, it's certainly in the driveline. All the U-joints on both shafts appear fine and I've greased them regularly. However, I can feel a little play in the slip yolk on the front shaft.

- Long story short, I'm just going to replace both shafts /joints entirely.... start from scratch. I purchased this truck with 365k and when Rawze and I looked at the ECM info form the old engine, it looked like the truck had been beat on pretty hard for much of that time. I've since put another 100k mi on her and although as easy as I can be, still can't account for the previous abuse it withstood.

Dropping and replacing both shafts with new in one morning makes more sense from a financial point of view. Even if it costs more initially, the lost revenue of having someone repair what I have would cost much more overall. Plus, it will all be fresh and I'll (hopefully) know what I have.

Could anyone recommend a good driveline shop in the lower Ms/La area? Im within about 20 miles of the Slidell area if anyone is familiar with that location.

flatbed94kid · 03-28-2020, **(Subject: Driveline stuff )**

(03-28-2020 )SquareOne Wrote: Old thread, but still applies...... getting a slight driveline vibration starting between 35-45ish mph. Due to the type of vibration, it's certainly in the driveline. All the U-joints on both shafts appear fine and I've greased them regularly. However, I can feel a little play in the slip yolk on the front shaft.

- Long story short, I'm just going to replace both shafts /joints entirely.... start from scratch. I purchased this truck with 365k and when Rawze and I looked at the ECM info form the old engine, it looked like the truck had been beat on pretty hard for much of that time. I've since put another 100k mi on her and although as easy as I can be, still can't account for the previous abuse it withstood.

Dropping and replacing both shafts with new in one morning makes more sense from a financial point of view. Even if it costs more initially, the lost revenue of having someone repair what I have would cost much more overall. Plus, it will all be fresh and I'll (hopefully) know what I have.

Could anyone recommend a good driveline shop in the lower Ms/La area? Im within about 20 miles of the Slidell area if anyone is familiar with that location.

Are you sure your shafts are bad? I paid 250 to have a shop balance and install my joints and carrier bearing into my shafts. Parts cost about $380. They even marked it for me real well so it was easy to put back in. Running good, haggi found steer tires were bad. But bad vibrations can cause other stuff to break from wobbling and stuff so good to get to it!
I bought a tiger tool to remove them and made it pretty easy. If mark it real well with a paint pen.
And don’t drop the caps so not lose any needle bearings.

https://youtu.be/1vEWH0VfgKA

SquareOne · 03-28-2020, **(Subject: Driveline stuff )**

The play in the splines of the slip are what’s leading to want to replace them. It’s a short day cab WB as well, so no carrier to worry about which eliminates another component to contribute to the vibration.

Lonestar10 · 03-28-2020, **(Subject: Driveline stuff )**

idk whole new driveshafts seems excessive in price compared to either replacing the ujoint slip yoke or replacing that one plus having a new one welded onto driveshaft. although i dont know if i would attribute a vibration to the slip joint unless it was actualy slipping over the teeth. i would looke more into just some new ujoints if the shafts are the true cause or maybe new ujoints and a rebalance.

SquareOne · 03-28-2020, **(Subject: Driveline stuff )**

(03-28-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote: idk whole new driveshafts seems excessive in price compared to either replacing the ujoint slip yoke or replacing that one plus having a new one welded onto driveshaft. although i dont know if i would attribute a vibration to the slip joint unless it was actualy slipping over the teeth. i would looke more into just some new ujoints if the shafts are the true cause or maybe new ujoints and a rebalance.

I would assume that slack in a slip joint would mimic a u-joint vibration since it would be lateral play. Just an opinion since I have no proof. However, I'm sure you couldn't properly balance any driveshaft with any amount of play.

- As far as replacing the entire assembly, this is how I look at it...lets say I can get the shaft reworked and corrected with new joints for $5-600 and it takes 2 days to get completed. Sounds like a good deal if work was slow. Now, in reality, that 2 days will cost me $2200 in revenue right now, so the entire repair would be $27-2800. At that rate, I could spend $2500 (which I don't think it will cost) and come out ahead with all new components. No guesswork, just remove and install the new parts...

...Thats my way of thinking at least

Lonestar10 · 03-28-2020, **(Subject: Driveline stuff )**

idk my dad had his driveline rebuilt granted 260" WB but was expensive to rebuild it. so i dunno.

but im sure you could schedule with a driveline shop to have all the work done in one day. but price it out and see could be an alright idea could be suprisingly expensive who knows these days.