Replace transmission cooler???

[Sasquatch]

Hello again guys!
So if I need my transmission cooler replaced, 1 can I do something like that without a shop and power tools, 2 if so, what, how do I go about it?, 3 if it's too big a job to do in a parking lot alone, how much should I expect a shop to want for that kind of a job??
Separate in Mississippi, coming off of a month of loss due to other breakdown issues.
Please help if you can....thanks

[Sasquatch]

Oops, should have said desperate in Mississippi....
Any way I have found a slight drip of coolant under the transmission, looks like its dripping off the lines going into the transmission , trying to get under truck to see if it's just possibly a loose fitting like I found yesterday on the apu line, but would appreciate any input on this issue.

[Hammerhead]

First things first! If you can SEE coolant leaking, you are unlikely to have a tranny cooler issue. The vast majority of tranny cooler leaks leak coolant INTO the transmission, not externally.
If you do have a tranny cooler leak, ASAP after R&R'ing said cooler change your tranny oil. Coolant contamination of tranny oil is guaranteed to cause your rear synchro to fail. Yes, that's experience talking!

A Pete is one of the easiest trucks to R&R a tranny cooler on as when you pull the shifter plate off the floor you have the biggest opening of any truck...except a COE.
I'm too far away to come help you do it, so I'll tell you...
Tools required:
2 pair of vise grips; to clamp the coolant hoses shut if you don't want to or have the equipment to drain your coolant...or
3 @ 5 gallon buckets to hold your coolant
Large wrench set, or 2 large crescent wrenches to R&R the oil line hoses. If I recall correctly it is a 1-1/16 & a 1-1/8. You can verify this first by checking the hose fittings on the lower right front corner of the tranny. They are almost alway the same size as the top ones...unless you have to get new hoses made ASAP at a small farm dealership like I did and he didn't have 4 the same brand, don't ask!
Small wrenches to unbolt and replace the cooler
Pliers, or small wrench or socket to undo the coolant clamps; depending spring or screw type.
One skinny bastard! I'm about 5lbs smaller than Rawze and this job is a royal PITA on my T800, but that big hole in the floor of a Pete makes this requirement more of a perk.
Some spare coolant to replace any lost coolant.
Teflon tape or goop

Job details:
Drain coolant into buckets, or clamp off the coolant lines. If clamping, I suggest resisting the urge to clamp close to the cooler to minimize loss. If you bump a clamp the wrong way, your going to lose a significant quantity, so bit the bullet and clamp near the head and the return line. I know, it sucks.
Remove shifter plate from floor of cab. Preferred to also remove shifter and lay it down on the floor. Removing air lines not necessary this way.
Through the shifter hole;
Remove coolant clamps and hoses from fittings.
Remove oil lines from fittings
Then unbolt the cooler from top of tranny.
Remove cooler, transfer all required fittings using Teflon tape to prevent leaks to new cooler,
Reassemble in reverse order...

Would I do it in a parking lot, yes. But I've also changed a front diff in a parking lot. I carry wheel nut sockets and replace wheel seals, tires, fix flats, etc. myself on the road.
If it's your first time, and you brave it and do it yourself...I'll buy the first round when we meet and let you tell the story!
Expect about 4hrs flat rate for a shop. Like I said a Pete is about the easiest there is to do it on, but good luck getting a shop to pass in the "easy button" savings...

I'd expect if you have all the tools and are handy, it will take you about 4hrs or so...
Good luck, and let us know how you make out

[overshot]

Another question is. is it an EATON--FRO or RTLO.
if it's an FRO, it has an internal cooler. so, it could just be a coolant hose or the fitting leaking.

[Sasquatch]

OK a quick update, I think I have all of the external leaks stopped on my truck, and I appreciate all of the info. But now I am loosing coolant internally in the engine. As best I can tell I am not getting any coolant into the oil, and the truck isn't running hot. But it seems that I am steaming the coolant thru the stack, and the engine seems to be blowing pressure back up thru the coolant reservoir. Some I'm guessing head gasket, injector seal or bowl??? Not really sure, but I kind of need to know how to determine the real issue, and about what to expect for cost on these various repairs, so strapped financially, and still paying for this circus ride.lol.
Any guidance is appreciated.

[Brock]

Egr cooler can leak coolant into the exhaust as well pressurize the cooling system.

[in2trux]

(08-02-2016 )Brock Wrote:  Egr cooler can leak coolant into the exhaust as well pressurize the cooling system.

Rawze video for checking egr cooler, https://youtu.be/tNmQnAJzmVo https://youtu.be/Q2JAIpFByNw

[Hammerhead]

Agree with the above and check the EGR cooler as well as the doser injector, it has coolant circulating through it as well.
Other possibilities are; cracked head, dropped/tilted liner.
Check the easier/cheaper stuff first and hope your issue is in one of those.

[Sasquatch]

OK so here is what I hope to be the end to my disappearing coolant posts, for a long long time.
I bought my truck from a used / repo dealer in Fla. And after sinking way too much into the truck for a year, I finally found this forum, and all the wealth of info here, about one month ago, the dealer that made me reach my breaking point tried to rape me over wanting to replace practically my entire Regen / dpf system, so I did what any sane o/o would do, I got my truck really fixed, no more soot, and dirty engine. But unfortunately the damage was already done deep inside my engine, so as the soot packing was no longer happening, and the engine could breath and run, then I started developing coolant losses, even though the engine was running smoother, and cooler than it ever had, since I had the truck, so now, comes the happy ending I hope. Well not happy for me financially at this point. I am now here at the shop, and I will be getting an inflame rebuild. All the way, head and all. And then I will live happily ever after, having a truck that runs better than the new ones, can breath clean fresh air, as I run up and down the road, and after I pay off the loss of the rebuild, and finish paying for the truck, I will still never be at the mercy of a dealership shop ever again. I'll keep you all posted as I go from a disgruntled broke o/o , to a profitable happy truck owner.