Installing Solar on the truck...

[Waterloo]

Well, like the title says, I'm installing a Solar Panel on the roof of my truck... Maybe two...

I was reading an old post from Rawze regarding inverters, pure sine wave inverters...

I brought my 21" iMac desktop with me in the truck, It is essentially a monitor on a stand, very easy to bring in the truck, bluetooth keyboard and track pad, one power cord, easy peasy.

I have the Trip-Lite 1800 watt inverter in the sleeper, the Thermo King APU unit one... Not pure sine wave. Last thing I want to do is fry the computer, even though it runs fine in the truck, but for how long?

I found this one and ordered it... https://amzn.to/3jo9Ics
It is 2200W, thought about the 3000W unit, looked at the one Rawze had, but I don't have a lot of room in the sleeper. So, I settled on this one. I'll mount it under the cabinet I built behind the driver seat. I have the 1/0 cable coming in through the floor direct from the batteries, and will make it easy to connect.

I know, why did I get a 2200w unit? Well, I really do not have anything in the truck that requires anything more than 1800w, my microwave is 700w, my skillet and cook top are 1000w ea, the ICECO refrigerator runs off of 12v... The computer is minimal and charging the phone and iPad. So, I figure 2200w is plenty. And from the reviews, the customer support for this inverter is pretty darn good.

Back to solar, I was reading the inverter reviews, and quite a few folks were mentioning solar. Hmmmm...

They were running these inverters off of battery banks, saw a few videos, etc., and thought why can't I put solar on the truck to keep the batteries maintained and charged, along with cutting down on the APU running?

So, I did some digging around, and discovered that Thermo King of all outfits has a solar set up that they combine with both the diesel and battery bank APUs, along with their reefer units. They consist of one 50 watt solar panel, some wire and a charge controller the size of a Zippo lighter. They state it takes an hour to install. I can only imagine the cost, more than likely $3000 to $5000, if not more. Scratch that. My local Redford MI TK dealer charges $165 an hour for labor, and $100 for a 10" heater hose that Carlisle makes. The same one I can buy for $10 from Thermo Dynamics in OR. Not even going to waste my time calling them.

Here is what I plan on installing to keep the batteries maintained while parked and when it gets cooler out, to run the stuff in my cab, like the iMac and keep the phone charged, the bunk heater in the winter, etc.

The SunPower Solar Panel, 110W $215
https://amzn.to/2YN2aIB
The charge controller, good for two or three panels, $150
https://amzn.to/2QzMiVg
Cable from off the roof into the sleeper, to charge controller. $20
https://amzn.to/3lw8opP
Cable from charge controller to batteries. $30
https://amzn.to/3jo9DFG

Inline fuse from panels to controller. $6
https://amzn.to/2GdeVFZ

On off switch or battery disconnect, in my tool box, around $20 when I bought.
https://amzn.to/3gHizUY

EverBond RV repair tape to secure panel to roof. $30
https://amzn.to/34O1Xsf
A waterproof cable entry for the wires off of the solar panel. $13
https://amzn.to/3b9PTCZ

White Corrugated Plastic Sheet for air/cooling under solar panel. $23
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Coroplast-48.../205351385

And a few other odds and ends, like wire clips to secure the solar cable to the body of the truck and some connectors, etc., works out to roughly $525 installed.

I think that is pretty good. I was watching more than a few videos on using these panels to maintain and charge these batteries, word is a typical set of lead acid can last up to 5 years with one solar panel in operating condition.

Five years vs changing out batteries every 18 months to 2.5 years? If I can get 5 years out of these batteries I just bought, I will be ahead of the game in regards to ROI. Plus the fact the APU will no longer need to tend the batteries, as the solar is up to that, which saves fuel. In the cooler months, I should not need to even run the APU, saving even more money, or even in the winter running the bunk heater. If the batteries are at full charge, there should be no reason for the APU to even start. Solar is more efficient in the cooler months and winter.

And the nice thing about this setup, short of getting on the roof, is that the system is plug and play. When the panel fails, just peel it off and install a new one.

I plan on installing this first panel on the driver side of the roof, and am seriously considering installing a second on the passenger side for even more juice during the winter months.

The panels 10ga cable will drop down the exterior rear of the sleeper wall, to directly behind the compartment under the bunk where the control unit will be located in the side box, secured to the rear wall of the sleeper.

The controller monitor panel will go just above the HVAC controls in the sleeper on the back wall.

The 8ga cable will exit the side box through the floor of the sleeper directly to the battery box.

The inline fuse and on/off switch will be installed next to the controller in the sidebox.

So far, this should be a pretty easy install, short of getting on the roof. Wish I had a scissor lift, as I no longer bounce. LOL!

I don't know if any of you have gone this route, never heard it mentioned here, but thought I would give it a shot. If I can save a few bucks on batteries and fuel, I think this will pay for itself rather quickly.

[74bassman]

I would like to see this when completed. I have a second bank of batteries for the Electric apu or hvac non idle ac that international uses. I have never been able to get this system to run right. What batteries are you running with this setup?

[tree98]

EverBond RV repair tape to secure panel to roof. $30
https://amzn.to/34O1Xsf

Hmmm taping it to the top of the truck?? Not too sure about that.

[Waterloo]

You can run anything, wet, gel, AGM or lithium if you have the correct controller. They, the wizards of solar, recommend 100 Amp Hour batteries or greater to run a house or shed, where you are running actual appliances and what not off of the batteries and an inverter.

Me, I have the 75ah Duracells, along with an 100ah+ AGM. The controller I purchased can charge both simultaneously, so not concerned there. What I want to do is maintain the batteries and occasionally run a light load, mainly on 12v. Not operate everything on the truck, like AC and appliances and keep the APU usage to a minimum.

My plan is to tend the batteries and cut down on fuel consumption, which is very doable with this set up if everything I have read is true. There are more than a few videos out there on trucking companies putting these panels on their fleet trucks to save money. And from what I have seen, it is working in regards to financial savings, which is my goal.

The Thermo King units use a 50w solar panel and a very simple $3 controller to maintain batteries. That is doable too, I would say for around $200, if you just want to keep the battery bank fresh and not run anything in the truck, other than say charge a phone or laptop.

I'll let you know how it goes, as it will probably be a week or two until I can get to the install.

[hhow55]

http://www.lowes.com/pd/LINK2HOME-Solar-...1000518737

This is for Mr Waterloo!!!

[Lonestar10]

I've ran my high end laptops off dirty wave for 5 years neither have had an issue but that is probly because they are battery driven for most part current one has a 250watt brick of a power adapter as it powers a Nvidia GTX 1080, i7 8th gen, 17inch 1440p 144hz screen. But a pure corded computer might no fair as well granted my TV has never had an issue.

[Waterloo]

(08-30-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  I've ran my high end laptops off dirty wave for 5 years neither have had an issue but that is probly because they are battery driven for most part current one has a 250watt brick of a power adapter as it powers a Nvidia GTX 1080, i7 8th gen, 17inch 1440p 144hz screen. But a pure corded computer might no fair as well granted my TV has never had an issue.

Personally, I have been using this inverter, the old Trip Lite for years, no issues with anything... Well, there were a couple of things that would not even fire up on it, due to the dirty power, one was one of those induction cooktops, that bummed me out. But. I worry about the iMac, that power supply is all internal, no bricks. So... I'll break down and get a pure sine wave and be done with it.

[JimT]

Thanks for the thread, will be monitoring this one!

[Rawze]

(08-30-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  I've ran my high end laptops off dirty wave for 5 years neither have had an issue but that is probly because they are battery driven for most part current one has a 250watt brick of a power adapter as it powers a Nvidia GTX 1080, i7 8th gen, 17inch 1440p 144hz screen. But a pure corded computer might no fair as well granted my TV has never had an issue.

just depends on the device as to how much dirty power they can handle. Wife purchased a crock-pot that had some nice digital timer features on it one time and tried to use it in the truck. We had the tripp-lite ... about 1 minute after plugging it in .. even before she turned it on... the damn thing caught fire and it took all we had to ghet it ripped out of the truck as the plastic and everythign was in flames, it trying to burn the rest of the truck to the ground.

-- Taking it apart later, I found it has a noise filter capacitor across the mains.. before any internal fuses. -- that capacitor could not handle the partial sine-wave and got so hot, it caucht the plastic on fire.

-- I shortly removed that tripp-lite after that and replaced it with a pure sinewave inverter again like we had prior. ... no problems like that since.