High EGT under torque and under acceleration cm2250

[Possmguts]

Howdy all, its been a while since I was here last and had to start a new profile because I had forgotten my login info...

2013 cm2250 in a 13 t660 13 speed

Was having Tons of DPF issues and chose to go the "other" route. I "Thought" I had gone to the right place for this, But .... Now I'm in trouble.

Everything is still in place and "fixed" for the visual, Factory 425 hp was only adjusted to 518 hp and really didn't even need to do that, but was told this would help MPG... it didn't. I dropped about 1.5 mpg. I'm lucky to see 6 now.

My pyrometer probe is located Pre-turbo in the manifold and I'm having to Really drive out of it to keep the temps in check. Trying to keep in the 900 degree range while pulling hills and under acceleration is a challenge. Because of this I am freaking out about the tune I got. I know you're probably sick and tired of these posts, but I really need some help here.

I've driven about 3000 miles like this and don't want to have to drive anymore this way. I need to do something about this ASAP and I cant go back to where the work was done... (Long Story)...

Any help is Very Much Appreciated!!

[tree98]

Yeah you got a bad tune, you need someone to put a safe program in that thing. where you located? You could send a pm to MommaBurt or running rough here on the forum, or you could go to Mr. Haggs in Georgia. Any other option will not help you in any way.

Do you have a laptop and an inline adapter?

[Rawze]

Pull a copy of the program out of the ecm using an adapter and laptop then e-mail it to me for a proper review.

Next would be to find out exactly what hardware changes were made to the engine (block plates, any removal of anything, etc) and if ALL the exhaust elements are 100% hollow,.. or if some moron skipped doing the SCR or only did half the job / improperly.

[Possmguts]

Yes sir, I ended up having to do the Gutting myself because the guy fell and broke his tail bone on the ice and couldn't get under the truck... all exhaust components are 100% hollow.

I do have insite and calterm, but really don't know much about it other than pulling codes and using the troubleshooting part of insite... Im free to try today and get back to you.

[Possmguts]

(02-14-2021 )tree98 Wrote:  Yeah you got a bad tune, you need someone to put a safe program in that thing. where you located? You could send a pm to MommaBurt or running rough here on the forum, or you could go to Mr. Haggs in Georgia. Any other option will not help you in any way.

Do you have a laptop and an inline adapter?

I do have adapter and insite along with calterm... not very savvy with it yet though...

[Possmguts]

I should include that the EGR cross over had plugs welded in both ends... all manifolds are stock

[Rawze]

Was sent the program of this guys truck. The program is a bit out of date, looks like someone used the 'Africa-E" overlay on it .. is not bad, but could use an update.

Looks like the bulk of setting changes are simply the default settings of the older version Africa style overlay used.

NOTE: (this overlay can also be found on the webs, its a free overlay that is safe for the 2250's).

Things that were altered by someone away from the defaults ...

- Power was obviously raised by someone to 530/1850, but it should be OK for a mid-tier engine as long as it is not used in a heavy-haul (constant hi-load torque) application.

- Someone also lowered the turbo tables a bit to match that model truck (T660). Just need to ensure it can make 35,36~ psi boost under max loads and not higher than this.

I will update it to version "J" and send it back to the person who pulled the file out for ya.

At least now you know exactly what you have in the ecm programming, and that it can be easily updated.

[Rawze]

(02-14-2021 )Possmguts Wrote:  ...
My pyrometer probe is located Pre-turbo in the manifold and I'm having to Really drive out of it to keep the temps in check. Trying to keep in the 900 degree range while pulling hills and under acceleration is a challenge. Because of this I am freaking out about the tune I got. I know you're probably sick and tired of these posts, but I really need some help here.
...

To put some more light on your question ...


If you installed a pyro probe into the manifold pre-turbo then your temps are going to be about 100~150F higher than post turbo. This is normal.

Most of what people talk about on here is all Post turbo pyro temps, so the fact that yours is mounted pre-turbo into the manifold (and not just strapped to the outside if it) means that you should be seeing higher temps by default.

POST turbo, the rule of thumb is a max temp of 1050F .. and if ya can back out of it and keep it below about 950F or so, peaking only the 1050-F max on the rare occasion. The turbo will last a full lifetime (i.e. a longer life) if you keep your foot out of it in the hills and manually do keep it 950-F or below, nothing wrong with driving like that, it will save you fuel as well.

(Pyro probe In the manifold though) ...

You said your pyro is mounted into the the manifold, pre-turbo though. - Temps measured will run about 100 - 250-F hotter in the manifold pre-turbo by default. This means that you should have nothing much to concern yourself with temp. wise until you get it upwards of about 1100F~ish+ or so .. and 900 pre-turbo is actually only going to be down in in the very conservative 800F range post turbo.

Sounds to me like your babying it and worrying about it too much vs. what it can handle and what people on here talk about, simply because the pyro is mounted pre-turbo and reading higher.

- You need to make sure there are no boos leaks, pressure check the CAC, etc. and make sure the boost levels are ok in a hard pull.

Do a rail pressure test and ensure it passes ...


Also ensure the boost can in fact get to 36-psi (CM2250 engines only) or so in a hard pull, as lower than normal boost levels will indeed cause a bit of higher than normal egt's.

[Possmguts]

Thanks for getting back to me... When I knew I had to worry about the temps is when I first saw close to 1300 degrees on a climb with only 27,000 lbs on the trailer... Immediately backed out of it. I cant even run on cruise because the slightest incline will go into that higher range of 1200 degrees or more... But yes, I am babying it. Cant afford a 30,000 dollars inframe at this time lol... I read something on here where Im really supposed to be letting her climb at more like 1700 RPM verses the 1500 I normally run at... will doing the 1700 help keep that temp in check?