Anaerobic sealants

[dhirocz]

I'm waiting on my piston and liner kit, so I figured I would reseal my front structure. I've seen some references to sealants used with front gear and rear flywheel housing gaskets, some say rtv...

While I'm not opposed to rtv, I just want to make sure I end up using the best thing available for this application. If it matters, mine is not currently leaking, just being done while it's apart.

[tree98]

Not sure what Rawze used, I know it wasn't anaerobic. The audio started right after he says what it is he's using.

[Rawze]

very light dusting of anti-sieze. I don't use sealants or silicone on most gaskets.

[Waterloo]

I had to use some red RTV on my top front cover after the in frame. The gasket itself was fine, apparently the cover was a bit warped on the compressor side. I used a very tiny bead on the outside of the string gasket, that solved the oil leak.

[JMBT]

Dhirocz: what did you end up using on your front structure gasket?

[dhirocz]

Nothing yet. Took a week off while waiting for parts to go do military stuff. Jumped into cleaning the deck and counterboring (that's a fun thing to learn). Once I get the head on, I'll handle the front structure before I get to the cams and valve train (so I can compress the head gasket for awhile and retorque before installing them). Right now I want it in place while I'm handling the longblock so I can turn it over with ease.

I decided to paint it while it was apart. Looks pretty and fresh but what a pain in the butt. Hope this por-15 holds up.

The guys in the shop at work are both baffled a driver can do this on their own, and confused as to why I'm being so thorough. Guess they thought I was just going to slap it back together.

I'm also taking the opportunity to do a few extras, like a radiator, steering box, por-15 the front bumper reinforcement, etc...next job I'm hoping to leave up to haggais.

[Waterloo]

It's funs stuff, especially when you start getting into all of the bits and pieces... There is always something that needs attention or replacing. Do it all now while it is apart, because once it is back together, you are not going to want to tear into if for awhile.

The front structure, radiator mounts, in fact all of the mounts, replace them all. If you have any power steering cooling lines like mine, they were rotted out, up under the bumper in front of the radiator, never would have known that tubing was that rotted until it had failed on me. It was rotted out at the mounts, backside, which you could only see when everything was apart.

Pulleys too, the main tensioner pulley up near the AC Compressor, best to just replace it now, this one,
https://amzn.to/2PxZCMy
FleetPride stocks them, around $30 the last time I replaced mine, they are a regular wear item, around every two years. My buddy just lost his on a new old truck he just purchased. I need to get another as it is getting near failure time, hearing that familiar chirp. And there is no difference in the Gates or Cummins, both use the same bearing, numbers and stampings match perfectly. Cummins wants around $100 for theirs.

Fan clutch too...

Redo the grounds too, and if any of the other cabling looks jenkie or green, replace it now while it is all hanging around. One thing I wish I had done when I was in framing mine, was to strip out the cabling from the alternator back to the starter and battery box. If I could go back in time, I would have pulled all of that cable and replaced with new. One thing I did recently was to install a 300 amp alternator, I tell you what, that was the best $1100 I have spent on this truck. I had little electrical blips now and then, nothing major, just little warnings on the International side. All of that is now gone. I also discovered my cable from the alternator was starting to go green on me. I did not have the time to replace, so I ran a second cable back to the battery, piggybacking that old cable. My Spring project, replacing that cable with a new one, and I will leave the two 0 ga cables in there. Made a huge difference to the electrical system. Of course the wiring in the cab is 19 years old, so that extra juice I am sure is helping get through that old wiring. Resistance stuff...

Good time to inspect everything at the firewall too... Especially with the head off.

The turbo oil return line, I would replace it, mine was pretty rough once I really got to inspect it.

Boy, I am good at spending your money, LOL!

[dhirocz]

I've got all the basics, plus:
2 new cams
Cam retainer plate
Whole new IFSM. That was fun piecing together.
Turbo and actuator
All plumbing to/from turbo and air compressor
Steering gear, drag link, pitman arm and reseal pump
A/C discharge hose and evap core. Already replaced/serviced the rest of the system.
Blend door actuators and the rubber one way valve on the air box that controls direction of airflow
All 3 batteries
Last 2 original injectors
Radiator, water pump and oil cooler and both thermostats
Upgrading my hood mirrors to those from a T680

That doesn't count the 5k I blew 2 months ago ditching my old steel inner wheels and 726's, or any other recent parts for that matter(alt, starter, kit masters fan clutch and solenoid, pulleys, etc)

Going to be replacing the heat blanket on the firewall that's falling down and my intermittent delay wiper motor.

I considered the front wiring harness, but mine are easy to get to, engine assembled or not. Since I'm not having electrical issues yet, I figured I'll order a new harness to have on hand for later.

I'll be glad when this is done...

[Nilao]

(03-07-2021 )dhirocz Wrote:  I'll be glad when this is done...

It's never done