Calculated tire CPM?

[SquareOne]

Who here has (and could give examples) ran the cpm numbers on their tires? Could you list price paid vs mileage obtained as well?

- I'll most likely be replacing my drives at the end of this year-beginning of next year and am looking at other some options. I'm currently running LP 22.5 Sumitomo ST719's, which certainly aren't the creme of the crop, but have served well thus far. Looking strictly from a CPM angle, I don't mind having to pay more up front for a better tire, but only if it would net the return on the back end.

Of coarse, the cpm will not only greatly be affected by mileage, it will also be determined by the initial cost of the tire. Since I'm just a single O/O, I don't have any real discounts when purchasing and will most likely pay top dollar for large name brands. Again, not an issue if the mileage can be obtained.

So far, what I'm finding with these Sumitomos are a decent wear (when calculated per 32nd) but a rather unfavorable ride quality as they wear. Def getting harder and beginning to notice some shake...would this be an issue with a more quality tire, not sure as I have no personal experience with any.

Rawze, I took a pic of the tires you were running on the drives when I was there, but can't find it anywhere. Could you let me know the specs if you get a chance? Are you still running those? I know the mileage you got was very high, but I'd like to compare my price on that tire in order to see the mileage required for CPM to match the ones I have now.

Loo, how are the drives you scooped up treating ya? If I remember correctly, the price was really good. Wear? Fuel mileage change?

[Lonestar10]

Michellin/BFG are the only thing i run as i have a michellin national account and get a good price savings right now Mich Xline Steers and BFG DR454 Drivers with Mich XTEs on the trailer.


Xlines - about 70k miles are like new 6mo old
DR454s - Ied say 7/8 3/4 of original tread at around 10mo old 100k miles.
XTEs - Put on over christmas break - 30kish miles look like new still no abnormal wear.

ied say my average driving speed is 67 with spread axle 48' flat.

everything might last a bit longer now fuels getting up there rates have increased but not as much as fuel so ima start dropping my speed to offset the fuel costs.

i can almost bet you my fuel mileage on fairweather days and speed i drive
67-70 - 6.3-6.5mpg
63-65 - 6.5-6.8
60-62 - 7.0-7.5

need to save that money this year Tax man had to fully deduct my T680 i bought as i didnt spend enough money and uncle sam wants his cut. which means this year i wont have anything to depreciate besides the trailer once i get rid of the Lonestar unless once i hand my taxes over the to bank they say i can build my dream shop/shouse this summer.

[Rawze]

I have bridge-stone M710's.

They last me about 450k miles at a time. I replace them when they get below about 5/32" cuz I don't like em slipping in the rain.

There is roughly about a 0.7 mpg (increase) difference on average when their worn down to 5/32 vs. when they are brand new. Depends on how heavy we are, as to how much it shows though.

[Chamberpains]

I agree with Rawze. Both the good and the bad. I loved the M710's I may buy them again in the future. I got 350,000 out of mine. But just like Rawze said they become ultra hard in the final stage of their life. I was experiencing jack knife situations in the rain when empty and spin out a lot. I still had 7/32 on them but they became flat out dangerous to have on my rig. So I pulled them and went to a different brand.

In full disclosure I had just purchased a different truck and swapped the tires to my new purchase. So some of this fear and problems could be attributed to having a truck I had never operated before. I went from an 06 international 9400i to a 2010 KW t660. They are 2 way different truck designs.

[SquareOne]

It seems def seems like the mileage can be obtained with the M710's, but do you know what the actual CPM for a set of drives of those Brigestones are? (Mileage divided into the total cost). Chamber, I'm not sure of the price you paid for your drives, but I assume Rawze gets a substantial discount because of his carrier's buying power.

For example, on these Sumitomo's I'm running, based off the current wear per 32nd, they should see around 260-270k before I'll be ready to get rid of them. I paid $3400 (total installed for all 8 with FET, tax, etc). This would put my cost at about $0.0126/mile using the 270k total mileage figure. This is strictly basing CPM off total cost of tires alone (obviously you go further in if tires were costing you fuel MPG, but for simplicity I'm just using the total tire cost).

- To look at it another way, if I purchased a larger name brand at a cost of 40-45% (or more) higher, I would then also have to get the equivalent mileage in order to match my current setup. So, using the example above in a higher cost tire, I would HAVE to get over 390k out of them just to break even.

[Mattman]

Cheap tire that gives lots of miles may not be the the smartest choice.

A tire that gets just a tad bit better fuel mileage due to lower rolling resistance is going to make up for the cost difference in the tires. Fuel is by far our biggest expense.

[Rawze]

(03-19-2021 )SquareOne Wrote:  It seems def seems like the mileage can be obtained with the M710's, but do you know what the actual CPM for a set of drives of those Brigestones are? (Mileage divided into the total cost). Chamber, I'm not sure of the price you paid for your drives, but I assume Rawze gets a substantial discount because of his carrier's buying power.

For example, on these Sumitomo's I'm running, based off the current wear per 32nd, they should see around 260-270k before I'll be ready to get rid of them. I paid $3400 (total installed for all 8 with FET, tax, etc). This would put my cost at about $0.0126/mile using the 270k total mileage figure. This is strictly basing CPM off total cost of tires alone (obviously you go further in if tires were costing you fuel MPG, but for simplicity I'm just using the total tire cost).

- To look at it another way, if I purchased a larger name brand at a cost of 40-45% (or more) higher, I would then also have to get the equivalent mileage in order to match my current setup. So, using the example above in a higher cost tire, I would HAVE to get over 390k out of them just to break even.

it isn't just cost per mile on tires... it is fuel savings. A good low Rolling resistance tire will save you exponentially in fuel vs. their higher price tag every single time... especially if you haul heavier loads.

[SquareOne]

Yes, I agree that it is not strictly cost per mile in black-and-white. The fuel mileage savings alone from these tires to what I previously had actually has nearly paid for them. The tires I currently have are smart way certified and have good rolling resistance numbers. I would be looking for an equivalent larger name brand tire. I’m just curious if the cost per mile with a tire that is so much more expensive can equal this cheaper tire. Again, comparing apples to apples with roughly the same rolling resistance , would be worth the much higher initial expense?

Plus, I’m wondering if they would provide a better ride being a better quality tire.