My Pete rebuild

[Nilao]

Yup, mine sits on 4 pins at the bottom and 4 at the top. Tanks have sleeves that the bushings are inserted into. They for the frame nicely but after a year or so they harden and loose their fit allowing the radiator to slide back against the radiator support framework and rub holes in it. All I did was drill a hole in 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom, then put in rivets to stop the slide from happening. Has worked like a treat so far.

[Nostalgic]

I guess I never updated my electrical gremlins. I found a rotted off frame ground cable at the starter when I replaced the start charge harness. Haven't had the original problem return regardless, but I'm sure it wasn't helping.

Started to get some oil seepage on the front cover in the crank position sensor area. It would take 10-15k miles to get a film, but I decided to take care of it while I was kind of feeling like it.

The biggest motivation was a little clangy coming from the gear train area. I replaced the lower idler gear while I was in there, and installed a new front housing. With all of the slop out of the idler gear bushing, it sure made setting the gear lash easier. Since I had the compressor out already doing the front housing, I took the opportunity to install a Cummins air compressor. I hadn't had a problem yet with my ebay India made compressor, but feel a little better now that all of the important stuff is OE. Fan pulley was well worn, so she got a new OE hub assembly as well. You'd think she'd appreciate all the pricey gifts, but instead she started to knock.

Mostly during acceleration at first, then it got worse when working hard in the heat. I was getting to the point that I was just waiting for a piston to appear.

I ran cutout tests, and it ran on every cylinder by itself. No bubbles from front or rear.

Didn't hear any knocking while using jakes.

Thanks to @Hammerhead for the post in: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=3723







The valve cam and all rockers have probably close to 35k hours on them. I'll have to check my valve rocker bushings, but I'm hoping to just replace the jake rockers and rocker shafts since I still have the narrow lobe cam. If I have to change any of the valve rockers, I'll have to replace the cam as well since everything is obsolete.

[Rawze]

yup ... those jake rockers should not be moving like that.

Should also keep in mind that the detents in the rocker shafts themselves are almost always at fault too, when they get that worn.

if it were mine, I would install...

* New OEM camshaft (the updated version with wider lobes).
* New OEM Rocker shafts.
* All new OEM rockers (the updated versions that match the new camshaft).

a bit pricey but at least it will go another million before it needs them again (as long as you keep after the engine maintenance properly).

[Nostalgic]

(09-06-2021 )Rawze Wrote:  yup ... those jake rockers should not be moving like that.

Should also keep in mind that the detents in the rocker shafts themselves are almost always at fault too, when they get that worn.

if it were mine, I would install...

* New OEM camshaft (the updated version with wider lobes).
* New OEM Rocker shafts.
* All new OEM rockers (the updated versions that match the new camshaft).

a bit pricey but at least it will go another million before it needs them again (as long as you keep after the engine maintenance properly).

That was my initial thought as well - everything is just worn and sloppy up there. It just sucks because the cam is in good shape. Well that, and I just did the front housing <5k ago. I should install hinges and quick connects on my radiator lol.

I suppose parts availability may play a role in what I do also. We'll find out in the morning. At the very least, I'll do new jake rocker assemblies and shafts.

[Rawze]

(09-06-2021 )Nostalgic Wrote:  ...
At the very least, I'll do new jake rocker assemblies and shafts.

I don't think you can get the older style rockers that match that older style cam.. that is why I mentioned it.

[Nostalgic]

(09-06-2021 )Rawze Wrote:  

(09-06-2021 )Nostalgic Wrote:  ...
At the very least, I'll do new jake rocker assemblies and shafts.

I don't think you can get the older style rockers that match that older style cam.. that is why I mentioned it.

From my searching, the jake rockers rollers are unchanged. I can only speculate that the new and old cams must have the same jake lobe width. They aren't mentioned on any of the TSB charts, just the valve rockers (roller width).

Just added up internet pricing of the list to do it all and came up with close to $7 grand. We'll see what Hunter's prices me and what's available I guess. Lotsa money just to open and close some valves, and a reminder of why I didn't replace them the first time haha.

[Rawze]

(09-06-2021 )Nostalgic Wrote:  ... and a reminder of why I didn't replace them the first time haha.

I did not replace mine until they had 1.4 million miles on em. #6 intake roller was finally starting to get a flat spot in it.. making a sharp "snap" type sound on rare occasions ... so I replaced everything up there on both sides.. I did not want to have to take it apart again.

[Nostalgic]

It took a few days to get everything in, but I replaced it all. I also replaced all of the valve crossheads and jake solenoids since I was there. Haven't test drove it yet, but it sounds a lot quieter.

The new crossheads will probably wear in some. I'm just curious how soon I should run the overhead again? I expect it to actually loosen a little as they wear in to the valves, or is it negligible? Despite the urge to set them a little on the tighter side, I kept with .014"/.027".

[Rawze]

(09-12-2021 )Nostalgic Wrote:  It took a few days to get everything in, but I replaced it all. I also replaced all of the valve crossheads and jake solenoids since I was there. Haven't test drove it yet, but it sounds a lot quieter.

The new crossheads will probably wear in some. I'm just curious how soon I should run the overhead again? I expect it to actually loosen a little as they wear in to the valves, or is it negligible? Despite the urge to set them a little on the tighter side, I kept with .014"/.027".

in about 50k miles or so. Might want to also adjust the intake valves to 0.015". This has now been confirmed that it provides better oil flow on the intake valves without loosing any power, etc.