M100 steering pump input shaft seal leaking

[Redland1]

Hello all.My steering box on my 03’ International 9900i is leaking at the input shaft seal.The box is a Sheppard M100.I purchased the seal and wondering if anyone knows what all I need to do to get to it and also if any special tools or procedures are needed? Thanks.

[Nostalgic]

The instructions are on their website. I'll be doing mine as well in the next week or so, it looks pretty simple.

[Redland1]

The dealer I purchased the truck from told me to use 15w40 as power steering.Seemed off to me at the time but I used it anyways.Should I stick with it?

[Nostalgic]

I used Amsoil ATF in mine, but I really don't think it matters as long as you're not mixing.

[Yauchout]

my lonestar has the m100 and came from the factory with 15w40 and the two times i replaced the filter it got 15w40 back in it its over 700k now and still fine so it seems motor oil works fine

[Rawze]

(02-16-2022 )Nostalgic Wrote:  I used Amsoil ATF in mine, but I really don't think it matters as long as you're not mixing.

The order of recommendation (from most recommended to least recommended) back when i took the training course on rebuilding the power steering box for my prostar was...

#1. ATF - because it keeps the seals soft and plyable for longer. Or Synthewtic AFT for extreme environments.

--or--

#2. Engine oil - because it has the proper viscosity rating for the internal ball-screw and will also somewhat keep the seals soft for a long time. It is also a convenience thing where the engine oil can be used, so that different fluid does not have to be carried on the vehicle. Or- Synthetic Engine oil (up to 15-w40) for extreme environments.

--=or=--

#3 - Power steering fluid - because many types of power steering pumps are designed to be compatible specifically with it power steering fluid.


They are fairly forgiving on what oil is used in that list.. but personally, i run synthetic AFT in mine.

however -- DO NOT MIX different types of OILS!. If someone switches oil types, then the whole system needs to be thoroughly flushed when doing so.

==========


Just putting a a warning here for reference ... I would not want to hear about someone getting into a truck accident after them working on their power steering box themselves ...

IF YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE BALL-SCREW APART AND THE ROLLERS OUT (the main part in the middle with all the ball bearings) .. TO GET TO A PART OF IT FOR REPAIRS...----- DO NOT BOTHER!!!>..--- GO TURN IT IN AS A CORE AND BUY A NEW ONE OR A CERTIFIED RE-MAN UNIT!!>.. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RE-ASSEMBLE IT!.

ref:
==========================
----- I took lessons on professionally re-building steering boxes and replacing them when mine went bad {in 2014} years ago. Even the re-man shops that are around for power steering box units will only let a certain certified tech. (if they had any brains) do the re-assembly. Someone that has been trained specifically on how to install and ball-screw and its bearings, and IS VERY VERY GOOD WITH THE BALL-BEARING ALIGNMENT AND PLACEMENT should ever do that part of the job. It is very difficult to get right to say the least.

-- After the lessons .. I dissembled one / re-built it about 6 times in a row on the bench just for practice. The first 2 times I did it, I swore I had it correct,.. it worked like a new one ... it operated just fine ... but it locked up when it was thrown on their tester after about 10 minutes of rigorous testing to check ball bearing alignment. They will lock up unexpectedly after a couple weeks on a truck if a single ball-bearing is not in its exact place .... and believe me when I say it is hard to get them right!--- ITS DAMNED HARD TO GET EM 100% RIGHT!.

Some models are slightly easier then others, but some have have staggered size ball-bearings where every other one is only a few microns smaller than the one next to it. You cant tell them apart once they are laying in a box. Here is an explanation of what I just stated ...
http://www.kssballscrew.com/us/pdf/qa/Q-BS-19.pdf

And this is WHY you should NEVER disassemble the inner core where the bearings are in steering box with the expectation of putting it back together. ONE BALL out of place, 2 spacer balls next to each other,... or 2 load carrying balls... and after a while,.. IT WILL UNEXPECTEDLY LOCKUP!. Same thing happens to ball-screws on industrial machinery at high speeds when they are re-assembled incorrectly.


I got pretty good at re-building one, I already had experience with the same thing on ball-screws when I used to work on CNC machinery years ago. Even so ---

-- I PURCHASED A BRAND NEW ONE ANYWAYS to put on my own truck and donated the old one to the place that offered me the training. -- I did this JUST FOR INSURANCE AND LIABILITY REASONS!!! --- I am not about to put on a steering box that god-forbid locks up after a few weeks and kills someone or myself!. It has happened to many many people!. I don't need that million dollar lawsuit,.. I will let the manufacturer take that hit if I buy one and it fails!. -- All i have to worry about was installing it properly and correctly torque the steering components, that part was easy.

==========================
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...8#pid15288

[Redland1]

Let me break down what I did because you got me scared now lol.First thing was to drain the oil out of it from the lower steering box hose.Then I disconnected the steering column lower yoke from the steering gear input shaft.The bearing cap cover came off next along with the washer that was right behind it and a flat bearing that I believe is the thrust bearing.Removed all the old seals and o ring from the cover and reinstalled the new ones.Put everything back together and filled up the reservoir.Next I jacked up the front end,started up the engine,and turned the steering wheel all the way to the left and right for about 10 minutes.Is there anything that I missed or that I should recheck because I definitely don’t want it locking up on me?

[Redland1]

Oh and I know the instructions said not to turn the input shaft but mine did turn a little bit when reinstalling the cover.

[Mrkentee]

I replaced just the outer seal on mine. You just knock in the new one with a socket or something. I had a brain malfunction and gouged it all up getting it out, instead of just drilling a small hole in it and putting a screw in it and prying it out. But I was able to fill in the gouges in the outer walls of the opening with a tiny amount of JB Weld, then install the seal and it’s been ok.