Helping JimT out with an inframe ...

[Rawze]

(10-13-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  i get fuel where its cheapest on my card. i get about 40k miles per DAVCO filter running a 7nm filter and every time i change it the level stays below the black ring for atleast 5-10k miles.

maybe yours has leaky drain-back valve?

=================
mine does something very different.

I replace my davco filter and next time the truck cranks, level goes up about 25 - 30% the way up onto the paper element and stays there. I have never seen my davco run with the fuel level below the paper part of the filter except once when something was wrong.

Level runs a bit higher when engine is running. I also never put fuel in it by hand. I never remove the cap at the top of the glass either. I remove the whole glass bowl as is and replace the filter without disturbing the little cap at top. - I.E.> I put filter in dry and let the electric pump do its magic.

I use a 10-micron filter and it lasts about 20k miles or so before the fuel level is on the black line at top (engine off). ... in winter, or out west where there is a lot of bio ... this can happen sooner.

I have had my truck more than a million miles and it has always operated this way.

I have only once seen the fuel level below the paper part of the filter after cranking it ... I took the filter off and found bottom gasket on filter had a nick in it.

I have never replaced anything on my davco other than the glass bowl itself, it came with a new cap at the top. This was about 3 years ago. I don't even rarely replace the o-ring at the bottom of the glass bowl even though a new one comes with a filter. I also use vasoline on the threads of the plastic retainer so that it does not chatter when re-installing the glass bowl.

I have also never seen any bubbles rising in the fuel while engine was running on mine.

just sharing my experience as a comparison, others may vary. - 2011 prostar, cm871.

[Lonestar10]

No leaks I can let the truck sit for 2 days then take the top cap off and watch the fuel level jump from the vacuum that's still in it

[Agentspd]

(08-28-2020 )Rawze Wrote:  I just finally replaced mine with a brand new one (oem oil pan) this week.

I roughed it up and put on ...

* 2 coats of correseal.
* 2 thick coats of por-15.
* Then 2 thick coats of flex-seal (the paint-can version that is much better and thicker than the spray version).

Like Waterloo said .. It took a couple days to get it all on there and to wait for drying between coats. I also put a thin bead of clear silicone in the joints for the drain plugs where they meet the pan and let it dry before painting it so that they did not get welded to the pan by the por-15 before starting the project.


That thing is tough as nails and has a rubber coating that will take a decent impact from road debris if needed. - With all that on it, the thing would likely survive sitting on the bottom of the ocean for a few dozen years, lol.

-- I also am trying something new for the oil pan gasket. Instead of putting permatex or ultra-grey in the 4 corners where the block meets the front and rear housings that mate with the oil pan gasket ... i am trying out using a thin layer of that thick, pasty plumbers thread sealant instead. The thought process is that with the plumbers sealant instead of silicone, the pan gasket can be re-used and not get destroyed if i want to take the pan off it again. That pan gasket is expensive, so if this works out, then the gasket can be re-used easily without the silicone that would normally harm it in the 4 corners of the block. I also am only torquing the bolts to about 36 ft-lbs to reduce gasket distortion and to prevent the threads from weakening in the aluminum housings front and rear. I will keep a close eye on it to see if there are any leaks in the future. This was done with the consideration that the crank case filter is drilled out so there really should be no buildup of higher pressures any more on the gasket any ways.

I also installed a very strong, massive ring-magnet in the forward part/bottom of the inside of the pan a bit away from the drain plugs. Time will tell if this was ok to do or not, I am thiniking this is a good thing.

.. My engine does not have a common rail pump .. but I know if I owned one of those engines with the fuel pump of death, I would want to at least have a powerful magnet in the oil pan to at least catch some of the shavings in case my pump grenaded. It may not catch it all, but may save it from a lot of the circulating destruction.

Wondering if you seen any results of magnets in oil pan. Been any positive feedback from SOHC engines in particular. I think its a very good idea.

[Rawze]

(04-03-2022 )Agentspd Wrote:  ...
Wondering if you seen any results of magnets in oil pan. Been any positive feedback from SOHC engines in particular. I think its a very good idea.[/size][/font]

I have not had the pan off yet since I did this.

It just makes sense to have something in the bottom of the pan to collect metal shavings though. The rear ends have them, other gearboxes have them, etc. so I thought ... why not the engine?.

[JMBT]

Shouldn’t the oil filter catch any metal shaving in the motor?? Most rear ends and transmissions, unless they are heavy haul spec, don’t have there own separate filters.?. I am definitely NOT saying it’s a bad idea, but I am very curious to your findings when you do the pan again. Staying tuned…..

[tree98]

That would depend on when the "shavings" became separated from whatever they were a part of. I think Most fragments would have to travel through the bottom end bearings before they make it into the filter. I think this is an awesome idea for the high pressure fuel system isx's. Could potentially save an engine after a fuel pump failure.

[Rawze]

(04-03-2022 )tree98 Wrote:  That would depend on when the "shavings" became separated from whatever they were a part of. I think Most fragments would have to travel through the bottom end bearings before they make it into the filter. I think this is an awesome idea for the high pressure fuel system isx's. Could potentially save an engine after a fuel pump failure.

- Personally, I think they should have just installed a metal particle detector in the oil system with a shutdown alarm. I know if I owned one of those engines that would be one of the first things I would want.
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...9#pid61639

[JimT]

Well, just hit 670,000 miles on this truck. About 100k on the inframe. She's still running so I guess I didn't screw anything up too badly? ;)

So, here's the short breakdown of the last 100k miles:

Despite spending a good amount of time cleaning and painting parts much of the paint has peeled off, in large pathces. Specifically anything that was painted with Corroseal then Por15. All the parts that were only painted with the Tractor Supply IH Red have held up just fine. I'm not sure the cause, could have been the high humidity or just operator error, but it seems to be somewhere between the layer of Por15 and the bare metal, possibly something to do with the corroseal coating. So, new damper, peeled and rusty. Oil pan, peeled and rusty, lower coolant pipe to the radiator, peeled and rusty. On the flip side, I painted the exhaust manifold with corroseal ONLY before reinstalling it and, as expected, it mostly burned away once the temps got high enough. The interesting thing here is that 18 months later there is almost no rust anywhere that had the corroseal and most of the manifold still has a sleek black tint to it. Not exactly sure what to make of it, but it's interesting.

Ever since the inframe I've been adding coolant. Not a lot, maybe topping it up once a week on average. Initially it was due to a number of different leaks from coolant hoses not touched during the rebuild. Now I haven't had any visible leaks in months and the coolant still drops a little, though it's very slow and probably amounts to a gallon (or less) ever 2-3 months. It's hard to say for certain since I've had to drain and refill the system to facilitate other rerpairs at least 5 times since the inframe was done. Since the last refill there was about half a gallon added in the first week then only a splash or so to keep it within the sight glass on the steel tank. All in all the rate of refill is low and keeps going down, especially as the weather warms up so I'm not really worried.

2 of the coolant drains were due to failure of my fan clutch. First time it failed last May I replaced it. Right from the start every blue moon I'd smell hot grease and see a little splatter on my new fan blade. Well, end of august, 90+ temps and the AC cranked, the fan clutch started pissing air. Luckily I was empty, 1 exit past my house on my way to a pickup. Canceled that and went home for 6 months. Anyway, it seems the o-ring failed inside. This time the dealer gave me a different clutch which actually came with good instructions and extra parts for a future rebuild and it's been perfect since. Dunno if I messed up the o-ring when I installed it and that cause some kind of friction/over heating (hence the grease seeping out) or if something was wrong with that clutch from the start causing it to overheat on lockup which eventually melted the o-ring. Either way I like this new one much better and haven't had any issue with it. The first one was a Borgwarner and the new one is from Horton.

Oil consumption has been steady. Was going through about 2-3 gallons every 10k miles before the inframe. Right now it's about .5 - 1 gallon every 15k. Smell lots of oil fumes from the breather but little to no smoke from the breather or out the fill tube with the cap off. Do have a persistent leak of a few drops at a time from the bell housing.

Took some time off, unplanned but needed, from August 2021 through February 2022. Truck didn't run during that time as it was partially disassembled . Other than some extra blowby when I first got back on the road and an issue with a fuel rail pressure leak that I'm currently working to diagnose, it's been running great.

I did the overhead back around 30k after the inframe and not much had changed. Plan to check it again next weekend, weather permitting, when I do the next oil change.

Outside of the engine, my driveline issue still hasn't magically gone away on its own... dang... Could be trans or diff or something else causing some speed related vibration, notably around 50-55mph and 70 and up (not that I exceed 62 very often). I'm currently planning a big overhaul where I'm gonna change my rear end gears to a different ratio, swap out the tranny (the current 13 speed makes some noises I don't like, probably needs a rebuild, might go with an 18 speed instead), replace the clutch while I'm at it (seems to work fine except for the lack of a clutch brake for the entire 4 years I've owned the truck) and everything else in that area while it's torn down. Also, while all that junk is out of the way I'm gonna drop the fuel tanks and clean them out, replace all the fuel lines and all the air lines on the truck. They all run under the cab and between the driveline and the exhaust it's nearly impossible to access anything under there. They are all visibly showing their age and I'd rather be proactive. It's bound to be a fun and joyful learning experience. Especially working on my back on a gravel driveway :) Luckily we don't have a swear jar at this house.

Oh, I also picked up a maxwell start module a few month back and will be installing that along with an expansion to my batter bank and a new alternator. Will end up with 7 batteries and the start module so I should be able to run my accessories without an apu or excessively cycling the batteries anymore.

I'm also in the process of finally installing a bunch of extra gauges that I bought last year. Biggest hurdle was finding space on my dash without adding gauge pods. With that hurdle finally out of the way (hey, it was a low priority project) I'm now dragging my feet getting the wiring part done. Maybe I'll have another update next year ;)

Last but not least, those catseye tire pressure things I installed last year have been working great, no leakage or false readings, only seasonal temperature related adjustments. So far I'm very happy with them.

[hhow55]

Outside of the engine, my driveline issue still hasn't magically gone away on its own... dang... Could be trans or diff or something else causing some speed related vibration, notably around 50-55mph and 70 and up (not that I exceed 62 very often).

I would change carrier bearing, being i had very same vibration issue, long ago.