Bad delete club?

[3LTrucking]

Purchased a 2011 Peterbilt 387 in October of ‘22, knew it needed an inframe at the time of purchase (dropped #5). Had my mechanic of 20 years do the inframe, he’s done numerous 2250s 871s and N14s for myself and people I know, so quality there isn’t in question. After issues with the “man” in ‘19 he doesn’t do any programming work though. Won’t even look at cal’s. Truck was deleted when I bought it, no EGR, straight pipe to the rear, non-vgt turbo, etc. Truck has roughly 40k on it since in frame and I’m worried I may have a ticking time bomb on my hands. We put a new turbo on at time of rebuild for my peace of mind, shaft is already getting loose. Sometimes it boosts 37-31 (where I was told it should be) and sometimes it boosts 40+. If you’re starting out in a hole or sliding tandems truck will sometimes act as if it’s a Chevy with a cam and lope until you give it fuel. At higher rpm’s (1600+) I swear you can hear the fuel plump chattering away, along with a noisy top end, but I ran the rack and all was as it should be. I’m not sure if I’m hearing demons where there aren’t any after my last personal Truck toasted a crank 50k into a rebuild, or if I have legitimate problems. I don’t need a financial catastrophe at this time though, so better safe than sorry. I do have a pyro, unfortunately I just found out it and my diff gauges have been reading off due to wiring problems, so I don’t have any real numbers there. Any and all help/thoughts/opinions are welcome.

[Bengy88]

If you’re boosting that high on a cm2250 I can guarantee it’s bad. Hell if it’s boosting normal I can almost guarantee lol. 99% aren’t done properly.

[Rawze]

(04-24-2023 )3LTrucking Wrote:  Purchased a 2011 Peterbilt 387 in October of ‘22, knew it needed an inframe at the time of purchase (dropped #5). Had my mechanic of 20 years do the inframe, he’s done numerous 2250s 871s and N14s for myself and people I know, so quality there isn’t in question.
...

All too often, people put way too damn much trust in others "just because they have been around a long time".. and that is a dangerous no-no with this newer equipment.

I would not most mechanics any more far enough to throw a wrench at them. In general, the ppl who have been around the longest, who build engines, almost always have the worst habits, and also are seriously under-trained on the newer engines.

You need to go back and ask them what they set the liner height to?.. you need to go back and ask them if they let the head gasket crush over night and then re-torqued the head the next day.. you need to seriously be concerned!.

Did they use a Brand new head?.. or a reman?.. or had the original sent out and machined / repaired?. Did they use all 100% genuine OEM parts?. Did they put in all new rods or at least had the brass wrist pin bushings replaced in the old ones?.

Newer ISX engines are NOT LIKE OLDER ENGINES OF THE PAST!!!.. AND MECHANICS THAT WORK ON OLDER ENGINES WHO HAVE BEEN AROUND FOREVER ARE THE ONES WHO MAKE THE MOST MISTAKES WITH THEM!!!.

You also said they are also not too computer savvy. This is a big red flag all in itself!. - DID THEY BOTHER TO DO AN INJECTOR LEAK DOWN TEST AFTER GETTING IT BACK TOGETHER?... EXACTLY LIKE THIS VIDEO SHOWS TO DO???.
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...3#pid75483

So... If they say the typical garbage like, 'they set everything back at factory spec.', then your in trouble and it likely will not last but a couple few years, and blow head gasket again. Here is your future...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid41315

And lastly, just because someone has done numerous engines.. does not mean squat actually!.

-== and yeah.. my post is to shake people up a bit and stop them from putting too damn much blind faith in others, because that is how people end up with big problems around here. It is blind faith that makes 90% of all people end up with bad delete programming, and 60% of about everyone that has ever come on here who "had an inframe done by that reputable shop they swore by .. ehemm." just like you describe .. end up with costly, repeating engine failures down the road too.

(moving on)...
========

It being a 2011 truck.. what engine is it?.. you did not say.

(before it was deleted) .. Is it a DPF only truck (CM871)?... or is it a common rail engine with DPF and SCR(CM2250)?>. What is the engine ser# (the ESN#)?. -= 2011 trucks with ISX's in them can be either one.


your descriptions seem to fit the bad delete scenario so...
Yeah.. bad deletes is a plague in the trucking industry. Copy the program out of the engine and e-mail it to me for a proper review of what someone did.

[3LTrucking]

Engine is a CM2250, ESN 79536543. Cummins OEM parts were used, new head, .014 liner height, no wrist pin bushings or rods that I’m aware of. Head sat overnight. He is actually very tech savvy, he just doesn’t mess with anything calterm related anymore after a tattler got the “man” sent to his front door. He’s a 20+ year Cummins mechanic, still does 9-5 there and has his own gig on the side, so I’m pretty comfortable that he’s proficient with the motor. I did not take my last one to him (to save on towing) instead it went to an “old friend” of my fathers and 50k miles later it’s got a spun rod bearing sitting in my yard, so I hear you about making sure that the guy touching your stuff has an inkling as to what he’s doing. He also advised me about the fixed turbo but due to none of the hardware being present on the motor I opted just to stick with the fixed, my bad call and I own it. I haven’t the slightest how to copy the program out of the engine, so I’m perusing the forum now looking for said info. Do you happen to have a link by chance, or info on how to do so?

[Rawze]

(04-25-2023 )3LTrucking Wrote:  ...no wrist pin bushings or rods that I’m aware of.
...

No new wrist pin bushings = it will not make it another million before putting a piston thru the side of the engine block with zero warning at some point. Keep that in mind. This especially on a common rail engine, as they tend to wear the wrist bin brass out faster than older models. The CM870's/871's would typically make it about 1.2 - 1.4 million miles (connecting rod bushings never er replaced) before high risk of putting a piston thru the block. Some people would get lucky and get a bit more due to driving the truck gently its whole life, .. but not much more.

- And those common rail engines wear the bushings at a faster rate. If those rods (with their orig. bushings untouched) were re-used.. you had best bet it will be a ticking time bomb at some point in its future. It is absolutely nothing to chance or ignore, especially during an inframe, so if this was not done.. then you had better pray like all h#ell for it to last long enough to get your moneys back out of that inframe + some profit. There is no excuse for not doing them!.


as far as copying the program out of it, here is what needs to be done:
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid72945