Bad demandate

[Benjamin9669]

I have not. On cold mornings it keeps throwing a code for that box. And that code is pretty much intermittent. If I revved around 15 the turbo would spool up and down and cut in and out.

[Oilysnowman]

Update
So changed the turbo actuator control box, although better still not as it should be. Have a month plus off so changing both cams, all rockers and all rocker shafts to the tune of $16,000 cad… ouch. Had hoped to just do the valve side, but the polishing on the injector side didn’t look to good, and once I got it out it measured under spec according to quick serve. All oem stuff going back in. While I’m digging around back there I’m doing the gasket between block and front structure, as it started leaking this winter. As best I can tell it’s coming from there and not the injector cam seal. I’ve read in other posts that Rawze doesn’t like the scissor gears? Mine has them, should I switch them out too?

Attached photo of one of the injector cam lobes, they all look more or less like that. 875 xxx miles on those cams, too little oil? Going to pre oil the engine prior to start up, drive the oil for 30 ish miles then shim the oil pump and add new oil. Hopefully that makes the difference. Also, found out my harmonic damper was set off by one hole, so that will have played with my valve set… how much? those dowels are tough little guys! Had to pry the balancer off with a pry bar, do I need to replace? I replaced it two winters ago, I looked in with the phone camera and I was sure I saw the dowel in the proper place, but I guess it wasn’t! I hope I haven’t done some irreversible damage with that.

[Oilysnowman]

My cam photo didn’t post, I’ll try again.

[MPDiagnostics]

That balancer is toast…
You can see that it cracked and is leaking in two places. Residue been flung out by those cracks there.

Replace that damper if you don’t want further engine vibrations and damage.

[Oilysnowman]

(04-05-2024 )MPDiagnostics Wrote:  That balancer is toast…
You can see that it cracked and is leaking in two places. Residue been flung out by those cracks there.

Replace that damper if you don’t want further engine vibrations and damage.

I hadn’t even looked that far… but you’re right, thanks!

[Rawze]

The #1 cause of cam lobe wear is crank case fumes cannot escape the engine well enough ... a bit of pressure builds ... and it starves the top-end of oil. leaky gear covers etc. are also a result of this too.

The most common causes of overhead cam failures range from the crank case filter always clogged up, or not using a maint.free cc filter .. or perhaps too much blo-by, etc. ... or if no one does the overhead valve adjustments every 2 years or 250k miles.

[Oilysnowman]

This truck has the breather going directly outside from the top front cover, no filter that I can find…I’m guessing the idler gear bearings aren’t supposed to be this colour?

[Rawze]

(04-09-2024 )Oilysnowman Wrote:  This truck has the breather going directly outside from the top front cover, no filter that I can find…I’m guessing the idler gear bearings aren’t supposed to be this colour?

neither is the oil supposed to be that black and nasty either. - Someone not changing the oil nearly often enough?.

[Oilysnowman]

neither is the oil supposed to be that black and nasty either. - Someone not changing the oil nearly often enough?.
[/quote]

I change the oil every 250 hours, which divided by an average of 60km/h (which I highly doubt I even get that hauling where I do) is just under 10,000 miles per oil change. Has RR program, and after the cams and rockers I’m changing now, the only thing on the engine I haven’t changed is the ecm, wiring harness, and crank. I’ve changed alll the sensors that you often talk of, with no difference.