Cm870 demandated hot egts

[Upnorth83]

So I was replacing egr valve every couple months so I decided to demandate. Nope I’m having hot egts. 800 to 1000 empty and loaded in a pull it’s hard to keep under 1200 and really hard to keep under 1100. Everything just seems to be running hot. Oil temps are 220 while water temp is 180. Just replaced oil coolers. Checked air to air. Not sure if this is normal or ok. They told me it’s rated at 600.

[Upnorth83]

The oil temp is empty. Loaded in a pull 250.

[Bengy88]

(08-14-2022 )Upnorth83 Wrote:  The oil temp is empty. Loaded in a pull 250.

High pyro and high oil temp is a classic sign of a bad tune. Did it just start this, has it been doing it but slowly getting worse? Have you cleaned and maintained your egr system?

[Rawze]

90%+ of all demandate programming is absolutely horrible.

If the engine has a delete program in it then it is high priority to copy the program out of the ECM and e-mail it to me for a proper review. Find out exactly what someone has done. Most bad programming can be as bad as putting sand in your oil... all while claiming "it seems to run ok".

Also, what is the boost doing>?. That is something to look into and ensure is right too.

Lastly.. do not trust whatsoever what someone claims of what the power/torque is. Most of those garbage del. programs running around out there not set to what they claim to be.

[Upnorth83]

I’m still struggling with this engine tune. I’m working on purchasing Cal?erm so I can copy the tune out. I put a {aftermarket} twin oil cooler on it and oil temp runs around 210 now gets up to 225 on the hills. I thought it was going good. Then as the weather has cooled off in the last two weeks my boost has started jumping all over. Up and down. I had a copy of insite on my computer but it has disappeared. So I am working on getting that back as well. When check engine comes on it derates and sucks the life out of it. When I’m pulling and the engine light starts flashing off I lift my foot and go back in to it everything smooths out for a minute boost jumps to 40 41 and everything gets smooth and quite, lasts for about 3 seconds then boost falls off and back to noisy and no boost. I’m starting to think this truck is going to be the end of me. I had read on here that there is a flaw in Cummins programming that causes this issue. I’ve bought some resistors to try and fool it by bypassing the intake air temp sensor. I have load tested and replaced every sensor and wire. It has to be something in the tune right?

[Upnorth83]

Also fuel usage has gone way up. On a 900 mile round fuel usage is up 20 to 45 gallons a round.

[Rawze]

(11-10-2024 )Upnorth83 Wrote:  I’m still struggling with this engine tune. I’m working on purchasing Cal?erm so I can copy the tune out. I put a {aftermarket} twin oil cooler on it and oil temp runs around 210 now gets up to 225 on the hills. I thought it was going good. Then as the weather has cooled off in the last two weeks my boost has started jumping all over. Up and down. I had a copy of insite on my computer but it has disappeared. So I am working on getting that back as well. When check engine comes on it derates and sucks the life out of it. When I’m pulling and the engine light starts flashing off I lift my foot and go back in to it everything smooths out for a minute boost jumps to 40 41 and everything gets smooth and quite, lasts for about 3 seconds then boost falls off and back to noisy and no boost. I’m starting to think this truck is going to be the end of me. I had read on here that there is a flaw in Cummins programming that causes this issue. I’ve bought some resistors to try and fool it by bypassing the intake air temp sensor. I have load tested and replaced every sensor and wire. It has to be something in the tune right?

there are so many things wrong with what you just said that it is not even funny. No wonder you have nothing but issues.


- Installing after-garbage oil coolers IS MASKING THE ACTUAL PROBLEMS INSTEAD OF ADDRESSING THEM AND BEING ABLE TO SEE THEM!!>... NO WONDER YOU GOT ISSUES.. YOUR TRYING TO BAND-AIDE ON TOP OF PROBLEMS INSTEAD OF FIXING THINGS THE RIGHT WAY!!!.

first of all STOP TRYING TO FOOL S$IT!!!... IT IS BEYOND OBVIOUS THAT YOU HAVE BAD GARBAGE PROGRAMMING!!!!.. AND 40+ LBS BOOST IS GOING TO KILL THAT ENIGNE IN A HURRY!. -- IT CANNOT TAKE MORE THAN ABOUT 37-38 PSI.. EVEN IF YOU WERE MAKING BIG DAMN POWER WELL ABOVE 600HP!!!

YOUR FIGHTING BAD PROGRAMMING!!! .. PLAIN AND SIMPLE!!!.

AND YEAH.. CM870S ARE NOTORIOUS FOR BOOSTING UP AND THEN FALLING OUT BECAUSE OF --- GUESS WHAT..---- BAD PROGRAMMING!. IT IS WELL KLNOWN.. AND NO IT IS NOT A SOFTWARE BUG.. IT IS SOME IDIOTS --- BAD PROGRAMMING!!!.

=========

your story is nowhere near unique.. it has been seen 1,000+ times on here... and I see more than 900+ bad delete programs per year that do those same types of things you describe.. most of them by those same big-name trash engine killing/tuning companies like the brand of garbage oil cooler you purchased.

SO GO AHEAD.. AND BLAME THE ENGINE ... for all the F$UCKUPSS$S THAT WEAS DONE TO IT instead of facing the reality that it is THE ABSOLUTE ENGINE ABUSE THAT YOU ARE PUTTING IT THRU THAT IS THE REAL PROBLEM!!!.

(Generic quote... Now the beer is talkin'):
It becomes obvious where the problems are, when you witness someone stick their hand in a blender while its running.. and then proceeding to blame the blender for their hospital bills, agony, and missing fingers, instead of taking a moment to think about what string of bad decisions that they might have made, either by their own lack of understanding, or from the bad advice of others, that got them to the issues where they are currently at.

[Upnorth83]

It’s was auto correct on the oil cooler. It’s actually a {after-garbage brand} cooler. I changed to that because the original broke. I’m not trying to blame the engine I’m trying to keep it going so I don’t loose my career. Before the demandate i had so so many egr valves fail and at 1000 dollars a piece I couldn’t keep doing it. I wasn’t trying to upset you. I’m just trying to ask someone that I believe is very knowledgeable about these problems. I can turn nuts and bolts and trace wires, rebuild engines, but I lack in the programming and computer skills end of it. I’m a one man show. I drive, repair, and run the office. I had 12 trucks not too long ago and recently sold everything and kept one. I love my truck. Everybody keeps telling me to just get a new one but I have a lot of blood sweat and tears in to this one over the past 10 years. I recently inframed the engine. In doing so I replaced everything. From harnesses/ sensors to rocker arms and front case gears. I’m wanting to learn how to identify and fix the problems I have in the ecm tuning. I guess I’m mainly asking for help making sure I’m on the right track with the calterm and insite and if once I have acquired them if I could get you to help me learn and fix my issues.

[Upnorth83]

This is what I was referring to with the cold weather https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?...5#pid24825