2350 Pushing Coolant

[Bigballercarhauler]

Hey guys looking for some insite here. Have a 600/2050 cm2350 reman that was dropped in 440k miles ago. I recently demandated the truck bout 6 months ago. Last week it started pushing coolant out the reservoir. Combustion was found in the reservoir. Up until today I suspected I possibly had one of those bad tunes. Head came off today and there’s really no signs of it running hot. It appears cylinders 3-6 may have sunk the liners I’m still waiting to hear back on the measurements but he said his nail won’t even catch on those as opposed to cylinders 1-2. Curious what you guys think bout how the pistons/cylinders look. I’m in the process of getting the tune pulled off the truck so it can be analyzed.

Also would like to hear your thoughts on possibly going to ss shims vs brass. I’ve heard mixed reviews and would like to get y’all’s opinion.

[marek4792]

Stainless is better suited for high power ratings, but a good 565 2050/1850 tune will run better and cooler then 600. If someone removed the vgt (bad thing to do) and/or didn't replace the coolant bypass(another bad thing to do), Expect the tune to be shi#t and put that stuff back on.

[Bigballercarhauler]

(01-08-2025 )marek4792 Wrote:  Stainless is better suited for high power ratings, but a good 565 2050/1850 tune will run better and cooler then 600. If someone removed the vgt (bad thing to do) and/or didn't replace the coolant bypass(another bad thing to do), Expect the tune to be shi#t and put that stuff back on.

Vgt and EGR cooler are still present on the truck.

[Rawze]

bad programming will certainly make the liners distort and dance in the block.. taking out the head gasket. This before adding any power at all.


copy the program from the ecm and e-mail it over to me for a proper review of what someone did in there.

as far as the inframe goes.. if you want to do it 100% right.. this is what needs to happen...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid70606
... anything less and it will not stay together.

[Bigballercarhauler]

(01-08-2025 )Rawze Wrote:  bad programming will certainly make the liners distort and dance in the block.. taking out the head gasket. This before adding any power at all.


copy the program from the ecm and e-mail it over to me for a proper review of what someone did in there.

as far as the inframe goes.. if you want to do it 100% right.. this is what needs to happen...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid70606
... anything less and it will not stay together.

I’ll have the program over to you in the next few days. They are supposed to be pulling it for me. I’m doing the Cummins overhaul kit and new head while we are at it. I’ll pass the torquing information along to them.

[Rawze]

(01-08-2025 )Bigballercarhauler Wrote:  

(01-08-2025 )Rawze Wrote:  bad programming will certainly make the liners distort and dance in the block.. taking out the head gasket. This before adding any power at all.


copy the program from the ecm and e-mail it over to me for a proper review of what someone did in there.

as far as the inframe goes.. if you want to do it 100% right.. this is what needs to happen...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid70606
... anything less and it will not stay together.

I’ll have the program over to you in the next few days. They are supposed to be pulling it for me. I’m doing the Cummins overhaul kit and new head while we are at it. I’ll pass the torquing information along to them.

you need to also counter-bore it and raise liners to 0.015".

[Bigballercarhauler]

(01-08-2025 )Rawze Wrote:  

(01-08-2025 )Bigballercarhauler Wrote:  

(01-08-2025 )Rawze Wrote:  bad programming will certainly make the liners distort and dance in the block.. taking out the head gasket. This before adding any power at all.


copy the program from the ecm and e-mail it over to me for a proper review of what someone did in there.

as far as the inframe goes.. if you want to do it 100% right.. this is what needs to happen...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid70606
... anything less and it will not stay together.

I’ll have the program over to you in the next few days. They are supposed to be pulling it for me. I’m doing the Cummins overhaul kit and new head while we are at it. I’ll pass the torquing information along to them.

you need to also counter-bore it and raise liners to 0.015".

Exactly what I told them when I dropped it off. I’ll have measurements before the head goes on to verify. Be curious to see if the brass shims are actually crushed when the liners come out or if Cummins built it this way. I know I’ve a read posts on here where Mr Hag pulled a new long block apart prior to install and it was no where near right

[Rawze]

(01-09-2025 )Bigballercarhauler Wrote:  ...
Exactly what I told them when I dropped it off. I’ll have measurements before the head goes on to verify. Be curious to see if the brass shims are actually crushed when the liners come out or if Cummins built it this way. I know I’ve a read posts on here where Mr Hag pulled a new long block apart prior to install and it was no where near right

brass shims have about 0.001" crush after head install ... pretty consistently.

[Bigballercarhauler]

(01-09-2025 )Rawze Wrote:  

(01-09-2025 )Bigballercarhauler Wrote:  ...
Exactly what I told them when I dropped it off. I’ll have measurements before the head goes on to verify. Be curious to see if the brass shims are actually crushed when the liners come out or if Cummins built it this way. I know I’ve a read posts on here where Mr Hag pulled a new long block apart prior to install and it was no where near right

brass shims have about 0.001" crush after head install ... pretty consistently.

They checked heights with .007 on 3-6 all of which barely or wouldn’t get under with the feeler gauge. They def sunk on all those cylinders