EGR Cooler Leak Check X15
10-13-2025, (Subject: EGR Cooler Leak Check X15 ) 
Post: #1
EGR Cooler Leak Check X15
Hi Folks,

Long time since i've posted on here, been occupied with some complementary business expansion and family life. But have been lurking

Ive got a X15 CM2350 X116B from 2017. It's got 18,000 hours on it, hauls heavy at ~60,000 kgs. Bought the truck used 5 years ago, and its been demandated by folks from this forum for the last 2 years now. Excessive coolant consumption at about a gallon every 2 days, fixed all external leaks. I've sat the truck now and have some time to do some trouble shooting.

1. When the truck is turned on, coolant level drops, and then when the truck is turned off coolant level returns to normal.

2. EGR cooler was replaced almost 6 years ago.

To do the test on this model EGR cooler, I want to confirm what I remove before I complete the 20PSI pressure test.

Is it just this clamp on the outlet side of the EGR i need to undo and place a dish under?
https://imgur.com/a/wYkhqfM



There's also an entire coolant strip test procedure on quickserve now, but with it being demandated, doubt that will do any good. https://quickserve.cummins.com/qs3/pubsy...urn%20tube


There's some blowby evident as well, but I figured I would drop the pan after ruling out the EGR cooler.
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10-13-2025, (Subject: EGR Cooler Leak Check X15 ) 
Post: #2
RE: EGR Cooler Leak Check X15
With the hours it has, I think its time for inframe. Most likely a liner has sunk or an injector cup is leaking bad enough to push coolant out through the overflow. To be sure drop the oil pan and pressurize the system overnight and then bar the engine over to check if coolant is escaping between the piston and liner and/or liner and block.. Air compressor can also push coolant out too so make sure to rule that out too.
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10-13-2025, (Subject: EGR Cooler Leak Check X15 ) 
Post: #3
RE: EGR Cooler Leak Check X15
remove that pipe, yes, to ensure it is not the egr cooler... but also drop the pan ...
info: https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?...4#pid81814

18k hours (equiv to 890,000 miles) is decent lifespan for an X15 that works hard. Its most likely a head gasket at this point.

here is what extra things that are needed if it needs inframe:
https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?...6#pid70606


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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Yesterday, (Subject: EGR Cooler Leak Check X15 ) 
Post: #4
RE: EGR Cooler Leak Check X15
I'll post pics after, leaking coolant at the liners.

For the demandate side, I read previously we needed two block plates, one at the outlet side of the EGR and one at the intake side of the engine where the crossover tube goes. I found that the "puck" I have is not up to spec so I'm going to make ones based on this PDF, assume that it is still valid for the X15?

https://rawze.com/forums/uploads/201804/...aba617.pdf

What are the dimension and thickness requirements for the block plate on the intake side? I found that the ones installed on mine (I got visual confirmation on cans being hollowed, but missed checking these plugs/plates), were made just of steel and were 1/16" thick. So I will be replacing those.
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Today, (Subject: EGR Cooler Leak Check X15 ) 
Post: #5
RE: EGR Cooler Leak Check X15
(Yesterday )Hermjeji Wrote:  For the demandate side, I read previously we needed two block plates, one at the outlet side of the EGR and one at the intake side of the engine where the crossover tube goes.
...

THAT UNFORTUNATELY IS INCORRECT INFORMATION!.

A. A plate needs to be installed at the intake manifold where the egr piping meets the manifold.

B. You need one at the EXHAUST MANIFOLD, BEFORE IT GOES INTO THE EGR COOLER, NEAR CYLINDER #1, and NOT at the back side of the cooler. - The reason is that over time, if there is no block plate there, the EGR cooler will fill with soot over time,.. create these hardened stones (due to heat and moisture), .. and then they will come spitting back out randomly back thru the manifold, damaging and destroying the turbo every so often.

BOTH PLATES need to be very thick. Like 1/4" or better, as there can be up wards of 80-90+PSI of pressures at the exhaust when engine is under full operating loads.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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 Thanks given by: hookliftpete




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