Automotive cummins 2015 6.7L in a ram

[RickatGL]

Is there anybody on here that has abit of experience with these small cummins, I've gone through 2 turbos already they are around 5k each. Im thinking there is a operating issue. That I am not away of. Looking for recommendations on how to replace myself what I should be testing, if there is cleaning to be done while its apart or general tips and tricks that Rawze seems to have on the x15

[mikkhh]

Brand new genuine turbos?
What kind of failures turbos had? Actuator issues? Broken turbine shafts? Damaged impeller blades? Was the turbo pre oiled before starting it up? Dry first start will certainly shorten turbo lifespan.

Is the programming in the ecm stock?

!!!Have the program pulled from the ecm and looked over!!!

Does the truck still have dpf on it? How many hours/miles? How and for what this truck is used? Heavy towing? Lots of highway miles or just short trips around town?


Intake manifold and egr cooler will get sooty and has to be cleaned out every couple of years if engine is mandated. Cleaning for one time has to be done if somebody overseas buys the truck and gets mandate removed and therefore eliminating soot from entering intake manifold.

Same IMAP, EMAP, dpf differential pressure sensor to change out, since they are most important regards to engine running and will not read accurately enough after 10 years.

[RickatGL]

It's all stock, everything with mandate is good, not sure, why turbo is toast shop says it's so... I'm thinking actuator. Has around 150k, not sure on hours. Both turbos that failed were oem. Does shorts trip 20- 30 kms but heavy loads.

[RickatGL]

So first I should change some sensors, clean egr, is it possible to free actuator? Or is this turbo done.

[mikkhh]

Hard to pinpoint the issue if there is no talk how the turbo failed. Did it even fail? Maybe the culprit is instead due to no egr tuneup done?

I would clean egr cooler, intake, put new GENUINE EMAP and GENUINE IMAP sensors on the truck as a start.

Check tailpipes with your finger? Are they sooty? If yes then the dpf is damaged or missing.

[Rawze]

(12-30-2025 )RickatGL Wrote:  It's all stock, everything with mandate is good, ...

This statement implies that it 100% factory with DPF, SCR, EGR, etc. all intact and functioning. No hardware, etc. is defeated, blocked off, all still operates normally. - Is this correct?.

... And its just like Mikk said. - You (or someone) needs to find out exactly WHAT the turbo failure was, because they do not fail on their own like that, they typically last a VERY long time, even under high operating loads, unless it is abused in some way.

.. also, when you said 'turbo failure' you were not very specific either. - Faults?... turbine shaft snapping?... oil bleeding?. .. weak response?.,.. ?/. its anyone's guess.

your post(s) so far also imply heavily towards putting waaay to much blind faith in a repair shop to tell you what to do/ what is wrong, but no details on WHY!.,.. and this is a bad place to be.

[RickatGL]

The truck is bone stock no tunes, all systems functional. True I have no idea why the shop is saying turbo failure. Like I said i assume it's the actuator sticking. Far as I know.there was no faults. One of the drivers took it out, truck had a derate code, dropped it at the shop, they changed a dpf sensor of sorts. Another driver picked it up, then it showed a derate counter, so they brought it back to shop, where they told me the turbo is shot. That's all I know, I can check what code sensor they changed but I'm fairly certain it was somthing to do with dosing. one.

[mikkhh]

Are you the original owner and can therefore stay for sure that the programming is stock?


How many hours/miles on it? What kind of life it has lived? Towing or just cruising around? Is it a work truck? Lots of idling? Does it get driven around daily?

You mentioned DPF sensor. It was replaced with genuine part? Or aftermarket part, that most likely is faulty right out of the box?

You mentioned derate counter, for what the counter is - SCR or DPF?

Do you have in site or any other diagnostic to see fault codes and parameters regarding DPF? Does it say that DPF is full? Ash level? Soot level? What kind of differential pressure reading you have for DPF with engine off, idling, revved at standstill?


My take on it would be still the same on any more than five years old machine, before I would even dig any further would be CHECK TAILPIPES for soot, then clean intake, egr cooler, replace IMAP, EMAP and differential pressure sensor (only if there is no soot on tailpipes, else dpf needs replacing or deman if you live overseas).

[Rawze]

If you don't grab a wrench and start learning how to work on it yourself, then you will always be at the mercy of clueless idiots. - that seems to be your biggest issue so far.