White/Grey Smoke & Strong Fuel Smell

[Brock]

It does make me feel better, yes because your mecha8skills are utterly useless without a computer on these newer engines.unilevers will pop on here soon and tell you guys shouldn't even be allowed to touch these motors without one, rawze will pipe up to tell you to save your money on the bad injectors your thinking of buying.

My mechanic I've been using is old school and stubborn prick. I cannot tell you the amount of my money he wasted searching for problems for days to have me bring it elsewhere and 6 minutes later, know what the problem is exactly.

Not tying to ride you here bud, just telling you what tools you need. I'd hate to see you pile up your motor because you kept running it.

[in2trux]

Reman Doser from Cummins is about $300. I wouldn't waste my time on anything else.
It could be leaking coolant into exhaust through the doser, white smoke.
Congratulations on getting Insite. The first tool you need for Cummins DIY.
Cm871you only need inline 5.

Disabled or malfunctioning emissions controls will cause major problems if not done just right.
You won't be able to do a forced regen if doser is fouled .

You should also register your engine on Cummins quickserve, the online manual and it's free.

[jasonlepak]

I did register everything on Quickserve and have been going through it checking everything out and reading as much as I could...

Before I leave to the dealer which is about 2.5 hours away from my house, I'll pull the clamps off the doser and see if there's any evidence of it being bad...

[jasonlepak]

So this morning I pulled the doser injector pipe off the turbo and inspected it with a flashlight and all and even took a couple pictures which I can post if anyone is interested.
Everything looked dry and even... I can still see the injector nozzle and while I can't see any nozzle holes, it's possible that the regen just hasn't run for more than a day or whatever.
It does look original however with the original heatshield around it.

Now, since I won't have my Inline adaptor until probably Friday, I decided that I would use my new $250 injector leak test tool.

I started on the rear bank and cranked it over for about 20 seconds and got no air bubbles at all... There was even a little water sitting inside of the tube and that water line never moved.

Then I went to the front bank for cylinders 1,2 and 3...
While cranking it for 20 seconds I do get air.... However, when I stop cranking the bubbles will continue to flow for a few minutes.

When I bar the engine over by hand, I don't get any bubbles from any cylinders.
I must have rotated the engine at least 20-30 rotations and not once did the water line in the tube move nor did I get any bubbles. So now I'm at a loss here because why would I get bubbles while cranking with the starter, but not see anything while doing it by hand and kinda holding the bar once I feel there's a lot of pressure from the compression stroke of each cylinder?

Also this morning I did check oil and there's no sign of anything contaminating it... I have about 15,000 miles on the oil right now and was planning on changing it once I finished my front suspension and figuring out why I'm getting smoke out of the exhaust.

The coolant is still the same color as it was when I refilled the system after replacing the radiator a couple months ago. There's no oil or fuel floating in the top of the reservoir either, and there's no smell of fuel in the coolant reservoir.

I did find a leak in the exhaust.... After the down pipe there's an elbow and then there's supposed to be a flange with a clamp around it.
The person that owned it before me for some reason cut that clamp and flange out and put in a piece of flex pipe.
I replaced it last summer because the old flex broke, and now the band clamp that I installed with the new flex pipe is leaking, so I'll be tightening that after I remove it to get a visual of what my DPF can looks like on the inside.

[Rawze]

This may help...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid10016


Also, to check for a leaky doser injector, pull the pipe away from the turbo where you can see the tip then crank up the truck. If it is leaky, you will see the tip get wet/damp inside the pipe.

Also, if your getting gray smoke and it is not the exhaust, with a lot of miles on the engine, you may have lost an exhaust valve seal. To check for this, you will have to oull the exhaust manifold and look for wet stems.

[jasonlepak]

By the way... A guy I know that usually only works on Cat engines told me there's a good chance that one of my injector caps may be leaking... Is this a possibility and would it make bubbles while cranking by not while barring by hand?

If I'm planning on doing an overhead set, would it be worth pulling the injectors out and taking a look-see?

Another thing I forgot to mention was when it first started smoking I was driving for about eight hours so the engine was at normal op temp.
The next day when I started driving again the coolant temp was maybe around 120 and still smoked.

Doesn't seem to do while idling and really only does it while under load when I'm accelerating...

[Rawze]

With 1.1 mil miles on it, the head is done. Rarely do those CM871's last a million WITH the egr intact. you have been lucky, so start saving your money. I see an inframe in your near future.

Any oil leaks that run down the block behind the air compressor in the front on the drivers side up where the injector cam is behind the gear cover? - An indication that the injector cam bearings are down into the copper and getting thin.

[Rawze]

(03-21-2017 )jasonlepak Wrote:  By the way... A guy I know that usually only works on Cat engines told me there's a good chance that one of my injector caps may be leaking... Is this a possibility and would it make bubbles while cranking by not while barring by hand?

If I'm planning on doing an overhead set, would it be worth pulling the injectors out and taking a look-see?

Another thing I forgot to mention was when it first started smoking I was driving for about eight hours so the engine was at normal op temp.
The next day when I started driving again the coolant temp was maybe around 120 and still smoked.

Doesn't seem to do while idling and really only does it while under load when I'm accelerating...

With it that old, you had best pull a vacuum on the coolant system if you want to pull out an injector, and plan on replacing o-rings at the very least. It is very easy to develop an injector cup leak after pulling an injector on a head that old and worn out. Pulling a vacuum on the coolant system before loosening the injectors helps prevent this.

[jasonlepak]

(03-21-2017 )Rawze Wrote:  With 1.1 mil miles on it, the head is done. Rarely do those CM871's last a million WITH the egr intact. you have been lucky, so start saving your money. I see an inframe in your near future.

Any oil leaks that run down the block behind the air compressor in the front on the drivers side up where the injector cam is behind the gear cover? - An indication that the injector cam bearings are down into the copper and getting thin.

Well, it looks like you called it... There is oil leaking down the engine between the timing housing and the block, as well along the front half of the head gasket.

Now, being it has over a million miles on it and I have absolutely no service history from the previous owner (originally it was a PRIME truck) would you recommend buying a reman head or just replacing the bearings and all other "wear" parts?

Also, should I take care of the rest of the injectors as well since the dealer already replaced the ones in cylinders 1 & 2?