White/Grey Smoke & Strong Fuel Smell

[Rawze]

(03-21-2017 )jasonlepak Wrote:  Well, it looks like you called it... There is oil leaking down the engine between the timing housing and the block, as well along the front half of the head gasket.

Now, being it has over a million miles on it and I have absolutely no service history from the previous owner (originally it was a PRIME truck) would you recommend buying a reman head or just replacing the bearings and all other "wear" parts?

Also, should I take care of the rest of the injectors as well since the dealer already replaced the ones in cylinders 1 & 2?

Run it till it has to come apart. Get the last bit out of it. When it is time buy a BRAND SPANKING NEW head, not a re-man. The cost difference is only about $600 or so and worth every red cent.

[Rawze]

Here is a thread that you should read through. It details an in-frame i helped someone do in my front yard.

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...91#pid7491

Also you should watch my re-build series. Everything you would want to know is in there.

[Nilao]

I remember that lmao. I still need to do a update with it.

[jasonlepak]

Well, this is what I "think" I'm going to do...

Once I get the Inline adaptor and get the cummins insite program up and running on my truck, if I can figure out where the smoke is coming from and stop it without having to do any major work then I'll run it until I absolutely have to stop and do an inframe.

But, if it comes down to it needing a new head or whatever right now I'll just park it in my yard and take my time pulling the whole engine apart and replacing everything that looks original that should have been replaced a long time ago.

Like I said earlier... I have over a decade of experience working on regular cars and trucks, but this could be an opportunity for me to do a complete tear down and figure out every square inch of this truck and engine.

Since I found a leak in the exhaust, I'm guessing it is kinda hard to say if it was in fact unburnt fuel that is actually making it smoke... Especially since it doesn't necessarily take a whole lot of oil or coolant to make it smoke.

So I'll start with the doser injector and work my way from there... If I end up having to pull the exhaust manifold off after not finding the problem anywhere else, then I might just call it what it is and move the truck to a spot where it can sit for a month or two while I start pulling it apart.

Thanks

[in2trux]

The exhaust leak will keep it from doing a full regen by not pushing doser fuel far enough into DOC/DPF and not getting hot enough to fully burn. I see lots of trucks puff white/gray smoke running down the road trying to regen. Doser might be ok and just pissing fuel down pipe.
Insite will show when it opens and closes, fuel psi, DOC/DPF inlet,outlet temps.
Any CEL or warning triangles?

[jasonlepak]

This morning I put the actuators back together and started it up...
The doser injector isn't leaking coolant or fuel as far as I can see.

I ran the engine for about five minutes and then took a video which I'll post below.
With the exhaust disconnected at the turbo it definitely doesn't sound all that great.

I pulled the dipstick and opened the oil fill cap and there's plenty of blowby coming out which you can see in the video.

It does quiet down quite a bit after it warms up, but that's just normal with all diesel engines.

Friday I'll my Inline adaptor and I should be set up on Insite... Filling out the form now and sending it back to the sales rep.

Here's the video I took this morning... Keep in mind that the engine was only running for about five minutes when I started this video and it was about 30 degrees outside at the time.

https://youtu.be/LqbuFwKDwqU

[jasonlepak]

(03-22-2017 )in2trux Wrote:  The exhaust leak will keep it from doing a full regen by not pushing doser fuel far enough into DOC/DPF and not getting hot enough to fully burn. I see lots of trucks puff white/gray smoke running down the road trying to regen. Doser might be ok and just pissing fuel down pipe.
Insite will show when it opens and closes, fuel psi, DOC/DPF inlet,outlet temps.
Any CEL or warning triangles?

No engine lights or any other warning lights on the dash...
Occasionally when I have my engine washed at the truck wash, I'll get a code for crankcase pressure or something like that, but after the engine dries and warms up again it goes away...
I found this to likely be a bad wire at the plug because I found it broken but spliced it back together and just haven't bought a new pigtail/plug yet because I keep forgetting... So I'll likely take care of that when I do the inframe.

I already have it in my head that I'm doing the inframe sooner than later and have already been looking at suppliers that offer cylinder heads and rebuild kits.
I just want to fully diagnose the problem I'm having now so I know what failed and how to fix it, even if it does get taken care of by rebuilding the engine... I just want to know the cause right now before I do anything else.

[Hammerhead]

(03-22-2017 )jasonlepak Wrote:  I just want to fully diagnose the problem I'm having now so I know what failed and how to fix it, even if it does get taken care of by rebuilding the engine... I just want to know the cause right now before I do anything else.

That's simple.
When the EGR/DPF system was intact, your motor ingested copious quantities of soot. When coupled with the neglect of a fleet truck, then a lazy owner/op after that...and you didn't know better and picked up this sweet deal that now has that lovely vinegar after taste.
Congrats, you're now a member of the "If I'd have known then what I know now club..."

[Brock]

I couldn't help but notice lots of oil at the first boot off your turbo.... when mine was putting oil into the plumbing and I had bad blowby, my truck was constantly doing a regen from the high blowby I believe. Turned out my seal was bad in the turbo and it was boosting into the crankcase.

I don't know if this is your problem or not though.