CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
04-12-2022, (Subject: CM2350 factory file comparrisons... ) 
Post: #55
RE: CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
(04-11-2022 )Pitbullo89 Wrote:  hi i have a 2016 t680 10spd manual trans 3.25 rears engine is a 425st cummins isx cpl4583 ecm code EF10086 im curious whats the highest i can turn it up to and like what calibrations would work on it. i also want to remove that 1800 rpm limiter thats built in to the eco calibrations. including all info about engine from cummins quickserve

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* is the truck de-mandated?.. or is all the emmisisons systems still operational and in tack?.

* Alsom, with 3.25 rears, no matter how much HP you put into that engine .. as soon as you put it under a decent load.. it will feel sluggish and weak. Those 3.25 rears are horrible. My car does not even have rears that tall. It would be a much wiser investment to replace those terrible rear ends to make it pull better than to try to over-work the engine and shorten its life. Putting a set of 3.79's in it or maybe even a set of 3.90's, it would pull almost 2x better and feel like it had some actual ballZ again. This without even changing the power on the engine yet. - just saying.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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04-13-2022, (Subject: CM2350 factory file comparrisons... ) 
Post: #56
RE: CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
(04-12-2022 )Rawze Wrote:  
(04-11-2022 )Pitbullo89 Wrote:  hi i have a 2016 t680 10spd manual trans 3.25 rears engine is a 425st cummins isx cpl4583 ecm code EF10086 im curious whats the highest i can turn it up to and like what calibrations would work on it. i also want to remove that 1800 rpm limiter thats built in to the eco calibrations. including all info about engine from cummins quickserve

...

* is the truck de-mandated?.. or is all the emmisisons systems still operational and in tack?.

* Alsom, with 3.25 rears, no matter how much HP you put into that engine .. as soon as you put it under a decent load.. it will feel sluggish and weak. Those 3.25 rears are horrible. My car does not even have rears that tall. It would be a much wiser investment to replace those terrible rear ends to make it pull better than to try to over-work the engine and shorten its life. Putting a set of 3.79's in it or maybe even a set of 3.90's, it would pull almost 2x better and feel like it had some actual ballZ again. This without even changing the power on the engine yet. - just saying.

No everything is still intact I’m mainly looking to increase the hp of the truck and increase the top speed while nothing dealing with the wall the eco governor puts there for the rpm cuz right now it tops out at 95. But that’s only when conditions are perfect to do so other than that it tops out at 89 and I tend to do a lot of driving where speed limits are in 85+ areas
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04-13-2022, (Subject: CM2350 factory file comparrisons... ) 
Post: #57
RE: CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
(04-13-2022 )Pitbullo89 Wrote:  No everything is still intact I’m mainly looking to increase the hp of the truck and increase the top speed while nothing dealing with the wall the eco governor puts there for the rpm cuz right now it tops out at 95. But that’s only when conditions are perfect to do so other than that it tops out at 89 and I tend to do a lot of driving where speed limits are in 85+ areas

so your trying to run in excess of 85mph.. aside from the fact you bought a low horse fleet truck even with 600 horse your not gonna hold 85+ with 3.25 rears or really any for that matter at 80K. take it from me i had a contract for years that required me to run in excess of 75mph all day to make the delivery i have a factory 550 horse truck i bought new these things aren't race cars you will put excessive wear on everything aside from the fuel its gonna cost you you will wear out and destroy the driveline i cost myself more in maintenance then the contract ever paid
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04-16-2022, (Subject: CM2350 factory file comparrisons... ) 
Post: #58
RE: CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
(04-13-2022 )Yauchout Wrote:  
(04-13-2022 )Pitbullo89 Wrote:  No everything is still intact I’m mainly looking to increase the hp of the truck and increase the top speed while nothing dealing with the wall the eco governor puts there for the rpm cuz right now it tops out at 95. But that’s only when conditions are perfect to do so other than that it tops out at 89 and I tend to do a lot of driving where speed limits are in 85+ areas

so your trying to run in excess of 85mph.. aside from the fact you bought a low horse fleet truck even with 600 horse your not gonna hold 85+ with 3.25 rears or really any for that matter at 80K. take it from me i had a contract for years that required me to run in excess of 75mph all day to make the delivery i have a factory 550 horse truck i bought new these things aren't race cars you will put excessive wear on everything aside from the fuel its gonna cost you you will wear out and destroy the driveline i cost myself more in maintenance then the contract ever paid

It’s an ex Werner truck and I didn’t get to chose the horsepower of the truck cuz if I could have I would have got the 600 hp engine. But I do want to change the gearing but to drop my rpm when I’m cruising around 80 I would like my rpm to not be at 1600 so I’m kinda looking at getting some 3.08 gears for it. The info I’m trying to find is what’s the maximum top end I could get from the stock injectors and fuel pump and if I could use a factory calibration to up the hp before I go full custom tuning
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04-16-2022, (Subject: CM2350 factory file comparrisons... ) 
Post: #59
RE: CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
At 80 mph your spending all your profits on fuel and repairs. You should be regearing to keep rpm above 1500 as much as possible when loaded. Theres nothing wrong with say1600 rpm at 55 mph.


User's Signature: Warranty??? Yeah right, I am the warranty!!!
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04-16-2022, (Subject: CM2350 factory file comparrisons... ) 
Post: #60
RE: CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
(04-16-2022 )Pitbullo89 Wrote:  ...t’s an ex Werner truck and I didn’t get to chose the horsepower of the truck cuz if I could have I would have got the 600 hp engine. But I do want to change the gearing but to drop my rpm when I’m cruising around 80 I would like my rpm to not be at 1600 so I’m kinda looking at getting some 3.08 gears for it. The info I’m trying to find is what’s the maximum top end I could get from the stock injectors and fuel pump and if I could use a factory calibration to up the hp before I go full custom tuning

you must have been feed some kind of bad information there at some point.


driving your engine below 1500 all the time does nothing but lug it to an agonizing death. The ISX is better suited to be above 1500+ whenever any kind of load is required, and will last a whole lot longer if driven right instead of trying to lug the liners out of it in a hurry, below 1500.

Driving your truck 70+ and higher does nothing but beat the crap out of the truck and engine too. -- Last i checked, I drove a truck for a profit.. not some kind of bent sideways glory. - so far, your posting implies that your business strategy for profit absolutely sucks and you are he%ll bent on destroying your number#1 expense (fuel efficiency) and your equipment. We don;t help people do that kind of crap around here.. your on the wrong forum if you think your going to get advice on how to be a terrible, yeehaa-cowboy, 80+ mph trucker bent on as much HP as you can torture your engine with.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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04-18-2022, (Subject: CM2350 factory file comparrisons... ) 
Post: #61
RE: CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
(04-16-2022 )Rawze Wrote:  you must have been feed some kind of bad information there at some point.


driving your engine below 1500 all the time does nothing but lug it to an agonizing death. The ISX is better suited to be above 1500+ whenever any kind of load is required, and will last a whole lot longer if driven right instead of trying to lug the liners out of it in a hurry, below 1500.

Driving your truck 70+ and higher does nothing but beat the crap out of the truck and engine too. -- Last i checked, I drove a truck for a profit.. not some kind of bent sideways glory. - so far, your posting implies that your business strategy for profit absolutely sucks and you are he%ll bent on destroying your number#1 expense (fuel efficiency) and your equipment. We don;t help people do that kind of crap around here.. your on the wrong forum if you think your going to get advice on how to be a terrible, yeehaa-cowboy, 80+ mph trucker bent on as much HP as you can torture your engine with.

Mainly I’m looking for better performance when I’m in areas that are normally 80 mph cuz that’s where I tend to run a lot. I also work for a place that doesn’t pay enough to not try to get as many miles done in a shift as possible. Because I’m getting paid mileage pay. I’m sure we all remember those days where u are a guy who has there truck signed on to a company that’s only paying mileage. So the more miles I can get in a week the more I make to the truck and to my pocket. But I also know that a engine that has more power is also more fuel efficient than one with less power due to the fact you are not working it as hard. I have my reasons for driving my truck the way I do I’m just trying to get info on making it run better and for where it’s driven and how it’s set up
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04-18-2022, (Subject: CM2350 factory file comparrisons... ) 
Post: #62
RE: CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
(04-18-2022 )Pitbullo89 Wrote:  Mainly I’m looking for better performance when I’m in areas that are normally 80 mph cuz that’s where I tend to run a lot. I also work for a place that doesn’t pay enough to not try to get as many miles done in a shift as possible. Because I’m getting paid mileage pay. I’m sure we all remember those days where u are a guy who has there truck signed on to a company that’s only paying mileage. So the more miles I can get in a week the more I make to the truck and to my pocket. But I also know that a engine that has more power is also more fuel efficient than one with less power due to the fact you are not working it as hard. I have my reasons for driving my truck the way I do I’m just trying to get info on making it run better and for where it’s driven and how it’s set up

That is the worst set of excuses (AND BUSINESS PLAN) that I have ever heard for someone UNLESS THEY ACTUALLY WANT TO run their own operations into the ground!. - That set of statements SOUND JUST LIKE A COMAPNY DRIVER!.

THAT WAY OF THINKING = GO BACK TO DRIVING A COMAPNY TRUCK WHERE YOU CAN SMASH THE PEDAL IN THE FLOOR ALL DAY LONG, BEAT UP EQUIPMENT, AND SUCK THE FUEL TANKS DRY AS HARD YOU CAN SO THAT SOME MORON CAN PAY YOU BY THE MILE ONLY AND YOU DON'T HAVE ANY EXPENSES TAKEN OUT FOR FUEL OR ACTUAL TRUCK OWNERSHIP COSTS ANY MORE!. - THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT YOUR POST IMPLIES!.

TAKE THAT CRACK=-PIPE WAY OF THINKING BACK TO SOCIAL MEDAI WHERE IT BELONGS!.

It is not about the miles, especially if the rates are low. it is about making the most profit that can be kept long term. Its about moneys that someone can keep without eating their own bottom out of their fuel tanks and not beating their equipment to death. - The logic you posted on here if about as flawed as it gets and is exactly why a lot of O/O's fail at trucking these days.

Chasing miles is useless in today's economy. A truck owner these days needs to chase profit margin BY LOWERING OPERATING COSTS AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE instead, and that cannot be done by speeding up to chase miles like a fool. --- READ MY BOOK ABOVE!.

. - YOU GET NOWHERE BY CHASING MILES EXCEPT A LOT OF HEADACHES AND MONEYS FLYING OUT THE STACKS ALL THE TIME BECAUSE YOUR ALWAYS GIVING AWAY ALL YOUR PROFITS DUE TO STUPID THINGS LIKE "KEEPING UP WITH 80MPH TRAFFIC" AND OTHER THINGS THAT HAVE NOTHING WHATSOEVER TO DO WITH ANYTHING!.

THE NAME OF THE TRUCKING GAME IS TO SELL THE LEAST NUMBER OF MILES, FOR THE MOST AMOUNT OF PROFIT ==-=>> NOT THE MOST AMOUNT OF MILES AND BE DAMMED WITH THE [email protected], EATING IT ALL UP IN FUEL AND REPAIRS .. THAT IS WHAT YOU ARE [email protected] IT DON'T WORK OUT SO GOOD AND YOU HAVE NOTHING TO SHOW FOR IT IN 5 OR MORE YEARS FROM NOW!.

YOU COMPLAIN ABOUT NOT GETTING PAID ENOUGH PER MILE.. THAT IS NOT THE PROBLEMS!!!... YOU ARE COMPLAINING ABOUT THE WRONG Things!!!!>.. THE WHOLE DAM^N TRUCKING INDUSTRY DOES NOT PAY VERY WELL AS A WHOLE!. -- YOU NEED TO LEARN HOW TO SELL YOUR MILES ON THE CHEAP, SO THAT YOU CAN COMPETE WITH THE REST OF US WHO GET 8+ AND 9+ MPG ... .. AND LEARN HOW TO RUN THOSE CHEAPER MILES WITHOUT IT COSTING YOU NEARLY AS MUCH TO PRODUCE THEM ... THAT IS HOW TRUCKING WORKS IN TODAY'S ECONOMY ... NOT BY MAKING MORE MILES.. BUT BY MAKING LESS MILES AT A HIGHER PROFIT MARGIN .. NOT BY HIGHER RATES.. BUT BY LOWERING ALL YOUR OPERATING COSTS AS MUCH AS ABSOLUTELY POSSIBLE!!.. THIS IS HOW SUCCESSFUL TRUCKERS ON HERE MAKE THEIR LIVINGS AND SMILE WHEN THEY GO TO THE BANK!.

THIS IS NOT THE 1970'S WHERE FUEL IS 0.63c A GALLON ANY MORE!. MORE MILES DOES NOT MEAN MORE MONEYS!!!,.. IT COMES DOWN TO GETTING THAT EQUIPMENT TO PRODUCE A FEW LESS MILES AND PACING IT PROPERLY SO THAT IT CAN ACHIEVE THE LOWEST PER-MILE COSTS POSSIBLE FOR THE SAME S$IT RATES.


{just a rough example to convey an idea with some made up numbers}...
IF A BUSINESS OWNER CAN MANUFACTURE A WIDGET PART AT A FACTORY FOR 0.30c AND SELL IT FOR $2.50 ./. AND SELL 2000 OF THEM IN A WEEK. THEY HAVE DONE WELL!.
... AND HAVE MADE $4,400 BUCKS!. THE NET PROFIT = $2.20 FOR EACH WIDGET!.

BUT IF THEY GET IN A HURRY AND OVER-EXTEND THEIR MANUFACTURE COST BECAUSE THEY MADE THE PARTS IN A HURRY + BEAT UP THEIR EQUIPMENT .. AND IT COSTS THEM $1.10 TO MAKE THE PART.. SO THAT THEY CAN SELL 3000 OF THEM INSTEAD OF 2000 OF THEM IN A WEEK .. THEY HAVE ONLY MADE $4,200 BUCKS AND WORKED 2X HARDER AND HAD 2X MORE DOWNTIME ON THE EQUIPMENT, ETC.. AND RAN THEIR ARSES OFF TO NOT GET ANYWHERE FURTHER AHEAD!. AND THE NET PROFIT = ONLY $1.40 FOR EACH WIDGET!.

CLEARLY THE GUY WHO SELLS 2000 A WEEK WILL MAKE MORE MONEY IN A YEAR THAN THE GUY BUSTING HIS ARSE OFF AND SELLING 3000 A [email protected] THAT IS WHAT IT COMES DOWN TO!.. AND THAT IS HOW MODERN TRUCKING WORKS!.


IN BUSINESS IT IS CALLED DIMINISHING RETURNS.. TRUCKING IS JUST LIKE THIS!. THE MORE MILES YOU TRY TO PUMP OUT BY GOING FASTER ..... THE LOWER THE RETURNS WILL BE AND THE LESS OVERALL PROFIT YOU WILL MAKE LONG TERM!.


SURE.. as a truck owner, you try to get in as many "miles" as you can form week to week.. BUT YOU DO NOT DO SO BY SPEEDING UP!!.. YOU DO THE BEST YOU CAN, AT LOWER OPERATING SPEEDS, AND KEEP IT MOVING STEADY INSTEAD OF SPEEDING UP! .. THAT IS WHERE THE MONEY AND THE SWEET-SPOT IS AT IN TRUCKING!. 60-63 MPH AND KEEPING IT STEADY AS POSSIBLE TO SQUEEZE AS MANY MILES OUT AT THOSE SPEEDS IS WHERE THE HIGHEST LONG TERM PROFIT MARGIN FOR JUST ABOUT ALL TRUCKING OPERATIONS IS THESE DAYS!... AND IF SOME MORON SHIPPER, RECEIVER. BROKER, ETC.. SETS U UP WITH LOADS THAT FORCE YOU TO DRIVE FASTER THAN THIS (anything higher than the industry standard of 50 mph average drive time calculated from pick up to delivery vs distance of drive time alone).. THEY THEN ARE FLAT-OUT RIPPING YOU OFF-- and likely know it too!.



Truck owners who drive hard and get crap fuel mileage do not see these problems because they do not see all extra the costs/mile that are associated with beating their equipment up 2x faster and the other problems associated with down time being a lot more often, etc.. so they think they are always doing better than they actually are. This is what keeps them from getting ahead by the time a few years passes. Believe me, if more miles could get me more profit, and it were that simple.. Then every truck owner would be rich, and the mega-fleets would not be governing trucks to 60 mph!.. but instead would be pushing for laws that let them drive as fast as possible!.

{this user has been muted to stop them from embarrassing themselves further and from spreading their backwards, twisted logic ideas onto others}.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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04-18-2022, (Subject: CM2350 factory file comparrisons... ) 
Post: #63
RE: CM2350 factory file comparrisons...
I have yet to see normal truck tires rated above 75mph if anyone driving over 75 with these tires ever hurts someone driving above tire ratings I hope you are jailed for life... I highly doubt anyone here is purchasing their tires based on speed rating.


User's Signature: 2010 Lonestar - CM871 - 13sp - 3.70s, 2016 T680 - cm2350 - 13sp - 3.36s - skateboarder
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