I Got Funding Approved for a ISX Powered Tractor

[Blind Driver]

Looks like I'm buying my first truck.
2013 587,ISX, 13 speed, 3.42 gears, about 320,000 miles (ex US Express truck).
What will I need to look at when going into the ECM?
Engine overheating and lifetime fuel economy I now about. Anything else?

What should I inspect on this engine?
I'm guessing I should remove the valve cover and inspect the cams.
I'll eventually want it deleted later in the year.

What is the overall opinion of this truck?

[JMBT]

Well first of all congratulations!!!, and welcome to the O/O world! By taking the step to add a bit more responsibility to your job, you have opened the door to much, much more potential revenue!! The game now is not how many miles you can drive, but how profitable you can make the miles that you do drive!
I can't give you any opinion on the 587 Pete, I have no experience there, but with 3:42 rears you may be geared a bit high depending on your targeted cruising speed. There is a ton of info and many opinions on this forum about how to drive so you will have to read some and decide that for yourself, but keep in mind, slower speeds mean more $$$ in your pocket, and therefor less miles that you have to drive to keep the same amount of money.
Since you have an ex-company truck, you have to assume maintenance has been neglected, so I would start by first doing Rawze's full EGR tune up, as soon as possible. Watch his video series and do as he instructs. Doing this may also let you know if there are other emissions problems in your near future. Second, do an overhead and look closely for cam wear and other signs of premature wear from extended oil change intervals. Third, buy a Chinese insite knockoff from eBay, and become very familiar with the software. You will live and die by it unless you want to give all your hard earned $$$ to the Stealerships.
As far as the ECM, look at the current calibration number and make sure it matches the one on the data plate on your motor. If it doesn't you can post the two and Rawze or some of the other guys can tell if it is compatible. Look at all the engine abuse history information. It will show you time with coolant over temp, oil over temp, engine over speed, coolant level low,...and so on. That will let you know how rough it has been driven. You can also go into the trip info tab and see how much idle time, etc the truck has. Another thing to look at is the regen history, it will show you the last 10 regens the truck has done. Note the engine hours between each one to see how frequently it is regening, and the max inlet and outlet temp, a large temp difference can mean a restricted DOC or DPF that needs attention.
I know it may all seem a bit overwhelming, but it is definitely worth it in the long run! Congrats. again and welcome to O/O trucking!!

[Waterloo]

Which motor is in that beast? 2250 or 2350? First thing that comes to mind is your fuel pump, ceramic or steel plungers. I would remove and inspect, if ceramic there are kits out there to install the steel plungers. And if someone tells you there is steel in there, I would still tear it down and inspect. That is much easier and cheaper to do then an in frame or worse case, a hole in the block.

[Rawze]

l'd not look at anything with any gears taller than 3.55 (3.78 being better). - 3.42, you are working the engine hard to get up to speed, and fighting that hi ratio all day and it sucking fuel away from you while your loaded. You never mentioned what kind of freight you hauling either. If you hitting close to 80,000 most of the time, those gears are going make the truck feel like it can't get out of its own way. That leads to guys that are hell bent on more power instead of re-gearing the truck like they should.

Read my book,... install Pyro and boost gauges, do EGR tune-up,... etc.etc.etc.

[redbeard]

Please do your homework. This business is not the same as even just five years ago.
The deck is stacked against us and knowledge is a must. I can not stress enough that thees trucks will ruin your dreams and future.
Don't want to be a dark cloud, just believe that what Rawze say's is the truth and that stealerships (dealerships) are rightfully named.
Fuel pump and liner issue would have me going in a different direction than I chose. 2013 T800 with only 154000 miles at time of purchase . Every day I wonder is this the one?
I have been an O/O for over 20 years and my accounts are solid.
If I was going to do this again it would be with a Rawze tune and on a Cummins 871 with a fresh rebuild and never look back. Just my 2cents.

[Waterloo]

Like Redbeard said, if you need a newer truck, I would look for an 871 that is has a fresh in frame or one that is ready to blow, or is blown and have it in framed and have the mandate eliminated. These newer 2250, 2350 motors are ticking time bombs.

[Blind Driver]

I don't need a newer truck.

I'm looking at some older Cat powered trucks. I have 8k down. I may work my way into something.

The Cummins is a bit scary :/

[Waterloo]

(05-31-2017 )Blind Driver Wrote:  I don't need a newer truck.

I'm looking at some older Cat powered trucks. I have 8k down. I may work my way into something.

The Cummins is a bit scary :/

If it were me, I think I would look for an old series 60, pre emission. Plenty of parts if needed, reliable and serviceable anywhere in the country. I have been hearing nightmares in regards to parts availability of these Cats since Caterpillar left the class 8 market. I would even consider an old N-14, even though the injectors are an issue, it is still one hell of a motor.

[Nilao]

I e heard Detroit had a supply issue. The OEM parts were hard to find. Aftermarket parts aren't worth buying IMO. I'm not sure if that is still the case.