OIL/WATER TEMP

[808allstarr]

Just had a cm870 long block put in. On really hard pulls oil temp reads 250 and water around 225/230. No turbo temp gauge. Rad recored. New cac. New water temp sensor. New tstat and oil cooler. Spoke to cummins shop mech and said if theres no codes or stop eng light. Its most like inaccurate gauges and shouldnt worry cuz if it was running at those temps codes or shut dwn should occur. Any info or opinions?

[JMBT]

Hopefully inaccurate gauges or something is really wrong! Two gauges or sending units acting up at the same time seems a bit odd. I would check the gauge readings against a temp gun. If you don’t have one, they can be had on Amazon, starting at about $30.

That’s where I would start...

[Rawze]

Boost and pyro gauges? What are they reading?

[Chamberpains]

First off never listen to that mechanic again. Anyone that tells you to ignore your gauges doesn't give a damn about what they tell you.
Next you need to hook up some kind of scan tool, preferably Cummins Insite, to see what your sensors are actually reading.
After that if your gauges are reading way higher than the actual sensors are putting out, no big deal. Just figure out why your gauges are reading wrong, possibly bad gauges. But very unusual.
But if they're reading correctly...
You said you had a long block put in. Do you have any idea how much came with your long block? Thermostat, oil cooler, front gearcase? Some long blocks come very very very bare-bones. And you have to swap all the other stuff off the old engine and put on the new. Why I ask is because it's very easy to miss install a thermostat or damage the oil cooler putting it on. What is your normal running temperature at idle or on very light flat ground? There are a lot of unknowns with the description you've given us. More truck info and maybe some history of why you had the long block put in. Just in case you happen to be another poor soul with a very very bad EGR Delete and your ECM is causing all the problems. And possibly the reason you had to put a long Block in it to begin with.
At 230 degrees on the coolant you should get a check engine light. That is very suspect.

[808allstarr]

Boost 30 to 35. No pyro. Block was cracked and injector cups had coolant. Oil cooler and most everything related to oil and water cooling was less than a few months old. Idk exactly how much was taken from old block but old block had very simalar problems with cooling so alot was replaced then. When not pulling hard temps water 180 and oil lil above 200.

[Chamberpains]

Do you have the EGR still or is it disabled or removed? Demandated in any way as they say?

[808allstarr]

Still has egr.

[808allstarr]

Egr is new. Eng is turnt up. If it was a bad tune. Could resetting all parameters back to factory instantly solve problems if indeed its the tune? Or could ecm be bad itself? Its not original ecm. I ran truck pretty hard oil temp almost 250 water 230 on gauges but still no warnings. I know ecm has engine protection feature. Could it be turned off and the cause of no warnings? Funny thing is with old block had i reached those same readings on gauges lights and beeping would be goin off.

[Chamberpains]

100% this could be the root of all your problems. Being that you have replaced almost everything under the hood and we're going to assume they were replaced properly. I would definitely start out looking at the tune that is in your ECM. But this is after I would verify that your gauges are correct. There's no sense in getting excited if it's actually just gauges.
Do you know how to get your current calibration # and cpl # out of the ECM? You can get the cal # with Cummins Insite and the CPL# off the data plate on the valve cover. And also do you know how to look up what the original calibration# and cpl# was supposed to be in your ECM? Which can be looked up on Cummins website or the free android app Quick Serve and using your engine serial number. Hopefully you have the original number off the original engine in your truck. My long block got replaced with everything new from the valve cover down including the engine data plate. Now the serial number starts with 8LB00xxxx (LB for Long Block) and is completely unrecognized on quick serve. If you don't have the original engines serial number you can get that from your truck manufacturer. Just call any dealership and ask them for the original engine serial number.
With those numbers we can use that as good starting point to see if you have at least the start of an acceptable calibration in your truck.