My Pete rebuild

[Rawze]

(07-21-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote:  One down, 5 to go. I decided, while I'm waiting on my new flywheel housing, I'd use me old one, and set the block up on it to put the pistons in. Gravity is not on my side, but it went surprisingly smooth for a one man show. (My wife did put her freshly manicured hands in to help keep the rod from hitting anything)



Some lubriplate did squish out between the cap and rod... Any idea if that would affect the torque? (I have cut, not broken rods if that makes a difference)



On another note, check your rod bolts. While I didn't have any outright bad ones, there were a couple that were stretched pretty close to the limit. Luckily I had enough to pick out 24 good ones.

I'm going to have to put some type of hold downs on the liners so I don't pop any out turning it over.

The mating surface between the rod and rod cap should have no contaminants. No oil, no lubriplate, etc. It should be a dry fit. Mains however get a a very light bead of Anaerobic sealant on the very outer edge of the cap mating surface only as per quickserv procedure. The Anaerobic sealant is there to prevent oil intrusion main cap fretting. - If you have gotten lubriplate in between the mating surfaces of the rod and rod cap though, you could have clearance issues with the crank and rod bearings and also there is a chance of rod cap fretting and eventual spinning of a rod bearing.

I am also not a fan of lubriplate either. It is not very oil soluable and I have seen people have issue with it. I prefer the permatex ultra-slick https://amzn.to/2GSRn5Z . If the enigne is going to sit for a long period before cranking it (more than a week or so) then straight up Vasoline petroleum jelly is also a decent choice for pre-lube of the rod and main bearings.

Also make sure that the surface between the back side of the rod/main bearings where they sit in their housings is completely dry and clean. I have seen spun bearings because someone lubricated the back side of them by mistake.