My Pete rebuild
12-21-2019, (Subject: My Pete rebuild ) 
Post: #424
RE: My Pete rebuild
Sorry to hear about the family issues and that unfortunate accident. I know it feels like it never lets up and it never does. Some times those kinds of days aren’t so bad compared to the other ones you might have had recently.

Stay head strong and keep it nimble! We all here know the pains pretty damn lol.... it keeps me lvl headed at least for the most part. I just recently totaled out my car... the back end came out going down hill and smacked the wall like a tennis ball lol.... luckily I wasn’t injured or anyone else for that matter. It’s just a damn shame, should have put that oil change of a lil while longer lol... might have saved me $50


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 Thanks given by: Nostalgic
12-21-2019, (Subject: My Pete rebuild ) 
Post: #425
RE: My Pete rebuild
The family issue was last January, albeit a long term issue, but I appreciate the thoughts.

TA brought me a new Bridgestone steer on a steel wheel to get home. I ordered another new one for the driver side and the Pete wheel is a week or so out for some reason.

A bearing is going out on my fan clutch, so I figured if I have to pull my bumper, hood and radiator anyway, I might as well just figure on going ahead and tear into the engine now rather than do it all again later. It's supposed to be above freezing tomorrow, so hopefully I can get the salt washed off and get started. Fingers crossed that I find some ambition haha.
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12-23-2019, (Subject: My Pete rebuild ) 
Post: #426
RE: My Pete rebuild
So I was really hoping to find something of carnage in the oil pan, but other than a couple flecks of plastic type material, nada.

I can't see any score marks, but when looking up at #2, I can see what looks like scuffs?





Did I find the culprit? If so, would that alone be enough to cause blowby and oil usage? And what could have been the cause?

I haven't pulled the head yet.
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12-23-2019, (Subject: My Pete rebuild ) 
Post: #427
RE: My Pete rebuild
is that maybe where the ring gaps are and would be where the ends of the rings would be putting the most pressure on down and up strokes since they look to be inline causing the marks. i would turn the flash off and use a flashlight to light the area to get a better picture but looks like polishing from what i can see in photo.


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 Thanks given by: Nostalgic
12-23-2019, (Subject: My Pete rebuild ) 
Post: #428
RE: My Pete rebuild
It's tough to get the phone up there, but I did use a light/no flash. It's only viewable at a certain angle, viewing @ 45 degrees it just looks like cross hatching. No ring gaps should be there, unless they got turned during install (possible) or perhaps broke there? I guess I'll know more once the head is off.
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12-23-2019, (Subject: My Pete rebuild ) 
Post: #429
RE: My Pete rebuild
(12-23-2019 )Nostalgic Wrote:  ...
Did I find the culprit? If so, would that alone
...

absolutely ...

That is a scuffed liner. Happens when someone installed rod bearing and does not check the side-play in it to see if it is in a bind, or too tight... then cranks the enigne and its scuff-cuty.

If u have aftermarket stuff ...are the rod/main bearings after market too? - if so, you absolutely need to always plastique aftermarket bearings for just this reason,... another reason why I won't use them. - Even so, even if it is OEM rod/main bearings, if it was in a bind when it cranked the first time, it will do that. Seen guys do that a lot.





User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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 Thanks given by: Nostalgic
12-23-2019, (Subject: My Pete rebuild ) 
Post: #430
RE: My Pete rebuild
(12-23-2019 )Rawze Wrote:  
(12-23-2019 )Nostalgic Wrote:  ...
Did I find the culprit? If so, would that alone
...

absolutely ...

That is a scuffed liner. Happens when someone installed rod bearing and does not check the side-play in it to see if it is in a bind, or too tight... then cranks the enigne and its scuff-cuty.

If u have aftermarket stuff ...are the rod/main bearings after market too? - if so, you absolutely need to always plastique aftermarket bearings for just this reason,... another reason why I won't use them. - Even so, even if it is OEM rod/main bearings, if it was in a bind when it cranked the first time, it will do that. Seen guys do that a lot.




I just watched the series.Start at 5:35 part 5 for that specific thing, in case you're wondering.


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 Thanks given by: Nostalgic
12-23-2019, (Subject: My Pete rebuild ) 
Post: #431
RE: My Pete rebuild
Mains are Cummins bearings, the rods are IPD. It didn't happen on first start, but I know now when it did - randomly over the course of the first few months running it

I had 2 or 3 times where it didn't crank the first time turning the key. I thought maybe the starter had a dead spot, or bad connection in the ignition switch, because the 2nd time it would fire right up.

I had correct side play on the rods, it turned over freely (before the head was on and it had compression), so what does that leave me with, either incorrect bearing clearance or bad rod? Or - Without having the head off yet, I can't say for certain, but I think #2 was one that had impingement for a bad/leaky injector when I finally did them all this summer.

Maybe I'm way off, but my thoughts along the way was the bad injectors were leaking down on shutoff and causing hydro lock?
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12-24-2019, (Subject: My Pete rebuild ) 
Post: #432
RE: My Pete rebuild
I just checked, and side clearance is .014" (specs are .007-.019)
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