Rear structure |
06-23-2019, (Subject: Rear structure ) Post: #1 | |||
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Rear structure I am looking for recommendations and estimates with price and expected time to complete. to reseal a rear structure on a 2009 prostar with a ISX | |||
06-23-2019, (Subject: Rear structure ) Post: #2 | |||
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RE: Rear structure i think FBK needs something similar done and he was looking around 6grand i beleive. User's Signature: 2010 Lonestar - CM871 - 13sp - 3.70s, 2016 T680 - cm2350 - 13sp - 3.36s - skateboarder | |||
06-23-2019, (Subject: Rear structure ) Post: #3 | |||
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RE: Rear structure If you do that rear structure, the transmission has to come out. If you take the transmission out, you may as well do the clutch. On my ProStar I want to say the entire job was around $4000 at the dealership. And whenever you do a clutch, always do the rear structure, I know too many guys that installed a clutch and soon discovered an oil leak, Tear it all back out and wind up resealing the structure. A double whammy. The actual seal you are replacing is just a long string of O Ring rubber gasket, around $50. The rest is labor, I would shop around, and replace the clutch. About $1500 in parts and the rest is labor. Ball park, don't hold me to it, I don't buy clutches for a living. | |||
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06-23-2019, (Subject: Rear structure ) Post: #4 | |||
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RE: Rear structure (06-23-2019 )Waterloo Wrote: If you do that rear structure, the transmission has to come out. If you take the transmission out, you may as well do the clutch. On my ProStar I want to say the entire job was around $4000 at the dealership. And whenever you do a clutch, always do the rear structure, I know too many guys that installed a clutch and soon discovered an oil leak, Tear it all back out and wind up resealing the structure. A double whammy. The actual seal you are replacing is just a long string of O Ring rubber gasket, around $50. The rest is labor, I would shop around, and replace the clutch. About $1500 in parts and the rest is labor. Ball park, don't hold me to it, I don't buy clutches for a living. Sounds about right $$ wise... And yeah, learned guys do it every time the clutch is out...’cause there’s some jobs you just do so you don’t gotta do them again. Unless you’re into self punishment? User's Signature: Why? Why do I always ask "why?" Because I can't learn or help teach others with "'cause I said so..." | |||
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06-23-2019, (Subject: Rear structure ) Post: #5 | |||
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RE: Rear structure (06-23-2019 )Waterloo Wrote: If you do that rear structure, the transmission has to come out. If you take the transmission out, you may as well do the clutch. On my ProStar I want to say the entire job was around $4000 at the dealership. And whenever you do a clutch, always do the rear structure, I know too many guys that installed a clutch and soon discovered an oil leak, Tear it all back out and wind up resealing the structure. A double whammy. The actual seal you are replacing is just a long string of O Ring rubber gasket, around $50. The rest is labor, I would shop around, and replace the clutch. About $1500 in parts and the rest is labor. Ball park, don't hold me to it, I don't buy clutches for a living.The clutch is 2 years old would you still replace it? I do tend to agree it's out than get the flywheel turned...does the oil pan need to be removed? If so I would probably change the oil pan... and many the oil pump....its original at 700k | |||
06-23-2019, (Subject: Rear structure ) Post: #6 | |||
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RE: Rear structure Not advertising but this guy explains it pretty well. Also on video so you can actually see what we're all talking about. Yes mine is leaking. Just nursing her by keeping extra oil to keep it topped off. https://youtu.be/7AgGj7inuTc User's Signature: Also known as Shotgun | |||
06-24-2019, (Subject: Rear structure ) Post: #7 | |||
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RE: Rear structure No, the oil pan does not have to come out. If your clutch is looking good, two years old, depending on miles, I would leave alone. That new clutch is more than likely the cause of that rear structure leak. That rear structure is your transmission mount on a ProStar, there are no other attachments to the transmission, just that rear housing. The housing gets jostled around when a clutch is installed, and that upsets that seal, the reason it is best to do the rear structure when installing a clutch. Up to you on dropping the oil pan, that is not a difficult job, and once off, the pump is right there. Two to three hour job at most in a shop. Me, say four hours with beer breaks. The oil pump, not the rear structure... ;-) | |||
06-24-2019, (Subject: Rear structure ) Post: #8 | |||
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RE: Rear structure User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!. | |||
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06-24-2019, (Subject: Rear structure ) Post: #9 | |||
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RE: Rear structure Earnie, I would follow that advice in the link Rawze provided. Those were the items I replaced at around the same 700,000 miles on my truck. That is when about all of them failed, so it would be a good idea to be proactive on the maintenance. It will save you many headaches down the line, and you can chose how to go about it, not be at the mercy of "The Hook" and the repair shop you are towed too. | |||
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