CM2350 recommendations

[Zondo956]

What is recommended for the 2350? I’ve been reading here religiously trying to do things right from the start. My driving has changed drastically!

Aside from fuel pump, egr tune up and doing oil changes according to mpg what should be done?
I have the amsoil bypass but haven’t installed it yet. Read somewhere about oil pressure so want to be sure on what to do. Do I have to add dimes to the oil pump to raise pressure first?

Now what about oil. Is adding gear lube recommended on this engine?
I would like to get it looked over by a reputable shop and get stuff done that I can’t do.

Truck is a 2016 T680 with 495,000 miles. Engine has 150,000 miles. Built November 2017. Was replaced by dealership under warranty before I purchased the truck.

[Rawze]

u should not have to raise oil pressure to install the bypass filter.

Using a gallon of gear lube at each oil change is up to u. I would use it if I owned it to help slow down wear in the overhead cam, gear train, etc.

maybe others will chime in with more ideas.

[SquareOne]

What’s the mileage currently? That will determine your course of action at this point.

- when I purchased mine with 260k, I combined all the info gained from here and the Cummins maintenance manual in order to get it to a starting point while under my watch/operation. I downloaded the Cummins manual for the 2350 and did EVERYTHING that was recommended at the 250k interval.

- As far as oil pressure goes, I did not do anything to alter mine. When hot at a dead idle (at a stop light for example) my pressure is 23-27lbs depending on the temp. If I stop to load or unload , I always bump the idle to about 775-800rpm which will bring the pressure up in the mid 30’s.

- Is your truck de-mandated? If not, there are a few very important steps to keeping a healthy dpf/ Scr. I would open up the cans to see what the face of each looked like as well as the dosing injector for the DEF just to be sure everything is is healthy. Any face plugging will not only hinder your emissions performance, it will hurt mpg as well as possibly be an early sign of an issue up the chain of command...ie the engine components.

U should already know much of what is being said based off your original post, but be sure to pull that fuel pump apart to see and feel it for issues——do not rely on someone else’s ‘knowledge ‘ or opinion on this. It is detrimental to a 22-2350 and in most cases will cause upwards of 20k in damage when found out the hard way!!

[Zondo956]

New long block was installed so engine has 155,000. It is not de mandated. The cans were cleaned before I purchased the truck. It was a company truck I was driving that was turned in and I decided to purchase it so I know it was done. I have pulled sensors and they’re fairly clean. No build up. Didn’t even need to brush them clean but did so anyway.
MPG seem to be good now that it’s my truck and I changed my driving. I drive 55-62mph in and out of neutral 7.5-8.5mpg at the pump and that me idling the truck all night. When I idle I should bump idle up? Lots to learn here.

[Rawze]

(10-20-2019 )Zondo956 Wrote:  ...
I drive 55-62mph in and out of neutral 7.5-8.5mpg at the pump ...

Sounds like your on the right path with it...

Just be aware that going in and out of neutral a lot can make the DPF system cancel a regen cycle. This might work against you sometimes. Make sure you have insite so that you can do a forced regen on occasion if necessary.

[SquareOne]

(10-20-2019 )Zondo956 Wrote:  New long block was installed so engine has 155,000. It is not de mandated. The cans were cleaned before I purchased the truck....

There are a few red flags that many here will see based off this alone. Although not everyone is incompetent in rebuilding one of these engines, it does seem that every situation similar to this leads to an early failure due to a lack of knowledge or care among the 'professional builder'. Watch everything like a hawk. Do oil analysis and stay on top of everything as if you livelihood depends on it (which it does).

- Was the head changed as well? Why the rebuild BTW?
- Did you happen to see the cans while they were removed? What's the mileage on them currently?

(10-20-2019 )Zondo956 Wrote:  ...MPG seem to be good now that it’s my truck and I changed my driving. I drive 55-62mph in and out of neutral 7.5-8.5mpg at the pump and that me idling the truck all night. When I idle I should bump idle up? Lots to learn here.

Those are respectable MPG numbers, especially if you're pulling higher weights and through elevation changing terrain (although we don't know you're application).

- As far as idling is concerned, do as little as possible. An APU would most likely be your best bet, although I don't have any experience as I run a daycab. If you do idle all night, then yes, bump the idle to increase the oil pressure.

You're on the right track being here.

[SquareOne]

Dammit Rawze, quit typing so fast...lmao

[Zondo956]

Yes when I notice it doing a regen I keep it in gear for the next hour or so. The rpm seem to be stuck low when it’s doing a regen so it’s noticeable.

Cans are cleaned by the company before they turn any truck in to dealership. It’s part of their deal. Mileage is 495,000 on the truck.
I’ve been replacing and going through everything the company didn’t do. Seems never ending Lol
The engine was replaced by the dealership under warranty. Crank failure. It was a full long block they installed. Was told accessories are original. I’m not sure about the turbo but egr cooler, fuel pump and head was part of the long block.

Is there any way to tell if it’s a reman or new engine? Was replaced December 2017 and plates on block and head say Date of Mfg. 11/17

I do plan on getting a APU but that’s gonna be sometime next year and after doing my research on them.

[Magard]

Idling all night with mandate still on the truck is really hard on emissions components. Also likely burning 15 gallons of fuel doing it. If you are getting 8 mpg right now you would be getting 10 mpg with no idling. That’s some pretty awesome numbers.