How much Idle time is too much?

[waitWhat]

Im looking at a 2015 isx15. It has 300k 9000 engine hours and 4.5k idle hours. It came with a EPU from the factory.

Im worried about the emissions, it was a company truck so I doubt they did anything to it. Are those engine hours vs miles vs idle acceptable? How many miles is an idle hour equal too?

[Rawze]

9,000 hours run time is roughly equiv to about 430,000-440,000 miles on a highway truck.

If you think for one moment that your going to buy a used truck,.. and it be even remotely ready for freight, you are squarely living in laa,laa land...

The typical stuff one can expect to do up front BEFORE PUTTING IT ON THE ROADS!!! when buying a truck of that mileage range...

- The fuel pump will need a re-build / all new guts ASAP.

- The cans will need to be pulled off and baked, DE-ashed, and flow tested. Plus an inspection of the SCR element and de-comp tubing.

- A very thorough EGR tune-up + cleaning out all piping, egr valve, etc. replace of all related sensors, replace Doser injector, replace exhaust gas pressure sensor and ensure piping/supply circuit is clean.

- Cleaning out of the DPF crossover tubing for the DPF Delta-P sensor, and replacement of the sensor itself.

- Replacement of DEF screen filter, inspection and very high likeliness of replacing all 3 of the the NOx sensors, as they are only good for about 200-300k miles at a time.

- re-torque of all wheel bearings.

- Inspection of overhead cam, and re-adjustment of the valves.

- Rail pressure leak-down tests and replacement of anything that makes it fail.

- pressurize whole engine and check it for air and egr leaks.

- 3 or so oil changes in very short intervals (3,000 miles or so) to de-soot the internals of engine, so that maybe,.. just maybe you can get another 300k miles out of it before the thing has so much carbon packing that it eats up the rings and.or the overhead cam.

- Shocks, drive-line inspections, replacing oil in all gear boxes, king pin and bushing inspections using an actual dial indicator and not guessing it like a fool, replacement of cab air bags, and shocks, inspection of rear air bags, belt replacements and pulley inspections, ...,...,...


The list only grows form there. Here is some related info ...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...18#pid6718

-- Owning a modern truck is NOTHING like driving one for a comapny ... I hope you got a lot of wrenches, and have invested in diag.software to go along with that truck pourchase .. otherwise, your pissing up wind and your fate of typical O/O struggle mode or failure is sealed.

[Waterloo]

I have owned more than a few trucks... These EPA trucks are not the equipment of the 80's and 90's, the service and drive days are long gone. Everything Rawze stated above is the honest to God truth. These trucks are junk when they roll off the assembly lines, I have been in the plants, they will tell you that on the dock... And the mechanics that maintain these units, in most cases do not give a sheet or are told to ignore many issues to keep the trucks rolling until they can sell them off to the next sucker.

If you buy this truck or another, budget money for diagnostic equipment and tools. An Inline 6 reader and a laptop are at the top of the list, especially if you are going to keep the mandate intact. You will need gear to pressure test the coolant system, fill the coolant system, tools to do the overhead, bar the motor, etc... A good idea of how electrical can bus systems work and the tools to do repairs properly and be able to read electrical schematics.

If you don't do the above, and rely upon warranties and shops, you will be broke and scratching your head in little to no time. These shops will repair your truck, and empty your wallet. You will quickly discover that repairing a truck, does not mean FIXING the truck.

You know, I never owned more than a simple set of Craftsman tools... My trucks rarely had any issues, the shop I used treated me right, had those old school mechanics that diagnosed with their ears, eyes and years of experience, those guy that have now passed away or retired are sorely missed. I can rattle off the issues I have had with my old iron, and it would not even fill half a page of a sheet of typing paper... My EPA truck, Encyclopedia Brittanica baby.

You are in the right place, and it will sound overwhelming, and it can be, but unfortunately this is the reality of today, unless you buy new and trade in every three years... Honestly, there is no way around what has already been stated.

One thing, I would take me at my word on this, buy a Cummins. Yes, they have their issues, but they also supply you with the tools to keep the motor running. I in framed this motor of mine, CM-871 in Rawze's driveway, using my iPhone. Try that with a Detroit, PACCAR or Volvo, ain't going to happen.

https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html is your friend.

[waitWhat]

(11-10-2019 )Rawze Wrote:  9,000 hours run time is roughly equiv to about 430,000-440,000 miles on a highway truck.

If you think for one moment that your going to buy a used truck,.. and it be even remotely ready for freight, you are squarely living in laa,laa land...

The typical stuff one can expect to do up front BEFORE PUTTING IT ON THE ROADS!!! when buying a truck of that mileage range...

- The fuel pump will need a re-build / all new guts ASAP.

- The cans will need to be pulled off and baked, DE-ashed, and flow tested. Plus an inspection of the SCR element and de-comp tubing.

- A very thorough EGR tune-up + cleaning out all piping, egr valve, etc. replace of all related sensors, replace Doser injector, replace exhaust gas pressure sensor and ensure piping/supply circuit is clean.

- Cleaning out of the DPF crossover tubing for the DPF Delta-P sensor, and replacement of the sensor itself.

- Replacement of DEF screen filter, inspection and very high likeliness of replacing all 3 of the the NOx sensors, as they are only good for about 200-300k miles at a time.

- re-torque of all wheel bearings.

- Inspection of overhead cam, and re-adjustment of the valves.

- Rail pressure leak-down tests and replacement of anything that makes it fail.

- pressurize whole engine and check it for air and egr leaks.

- 3 or so oil changes in very short intervals (3,000 miles or so) to de-soot the internals of engine, so that maybe,.. just maybe you can get another 300k miles out of it before the thing has so much carbon packing that it eats up the rings and.or the overhead cam.

- Shocks, drive-line inspections, replacing oil in all gear boxes, king pin and bushing inspections using an actual dial indicator and not guessing it like a fool, replacement of cab air bags, and shocks, inspection of rear air bags, belt replacements and pulley inspections, ...,...,...


The list only grows form there. Here is some related info ...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...18#pid6718

-- Owning a modern truck is NOTHING like driving one for a comapny ... I hope you got a lot of wrenches, and have invested in diag.software to go along with that truck pourchase .. otherwise, your pissing up wind and your fate of typical O/O struggle mode or failure is sealed.

I live in Jamaica. Do you think its a good idea to take it to mr. haggai for the demandate or should I fix all the mandate stuff? I can still get all the emissions part easy so that shouldn't factor into the answer. Is 70k a good deal for the truck? 2015 International Lonestar not o/o specs but not werner fleet spec either.

[Waterloo]

No, that is not a good deal... And stay away from the LoneStar, too many odd ball parts. You are in a odd spot, if you purchase the truck here in the US, yes, take it to Mr Hagg in Atlanta and get it fixed and tuned and then shipped. Are you exporting the truck to Jamaica?

If you are...

Stick with the Cummins motor, as they have the parts distribution system you will be needing in the future, and the ability to fix on your own.

I do not know what most outfits use in Jamaica, but I would assume a PACCAR product or Freightliner would be easier to get parts for. I do not know what is popular there, nor the dealership structure for obtaining OEM parts. This opens an entirely new can of worms...

We need more info, as we have folks all over the planet on here that may be able to help you make the best decision on what to purchase.

[waitWhat]

(11-10-2019 )Waterloo Wrote:  I have owned more than a few trucks... These EPA trucks are not the equipment of the 80's and 90's, the service and drive days are long gone. Everything Rawze stated above is the honest to God truth. These trucks are junk when they roll off the assembly lines, I have been in the plants, they will tell you that on the dock... And the mechanics that maintain these units, in most cases do not give a sheet or are told to ignore many issues to keep the trucks rolling until they can sell them off to the next sucker.

If you buy this truck or another, budget money for diagnostic equipment and tools. An Inline 6 reader and a laptop are at the top of the list, especially if you are going to keep the mandate intact. You will need gear to pressure test the coolant system, fill the coolant system, tools to do the overhead, bar the motor, etc... A good idea of how electrical can bus systems work and the tools to do repairs properly and be able to read electrical schematics.

If you don't do the above, and rely upon warranties and shops, you will be broke and scratching your head in little to no time. These shops will repair your truck, and empty your wallet. You will quickly discover that repairing a truck, does not mean FIXING the truck.

You know, I never owned more than a simple set of Craftsman tools... My trucks rarely had any issues, the shop I used treated me right, had those old school mechanics that diagnosed with their ears, eyes and years of experience, those guy that have now passed away or retired are sorely missed. I can rattle off the issues I have had with my old iron, and it would not even fill half a page of a sheet of typing paper... My EPA truck, Encyclopedia Brittanica baby.

You are in the right place, and it will sound overwhelming, and it can be, but unfortunately this is the reality of today, unless you buy new and trade in every three years... Honestly, there is no way around what has already been stated.

One thing, I would take me at my word on this, buy a Cummins. Yes, they have their issues, but they also supply you with the tools to keep the motor running. I in framed this motor of mine, CM-871 in Rawze's driveway, using my iPhone. Try that with a Detroit, PACCAR or Volvo, ain't going to happen.

https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html is your friend.

ive been reading the site and watching rawze vids for 3 weeks so i kinda know what id be getting into. I watched your video i think too. i know the fuel pump can f$%k everything when it fails.
Would a demandate from mr. haggai eliminate the main problems?

[Waterloo]

Yes, a trip to MR Hagg will cure most all issues, other than the fuel pump, that is a service item, every 300,000 to 400,000 miles, unfortunately, no way around that. But, other than the fuel pump, you will have a reliable truck.

[Lonestar10]

I own a lonestar and to be quite honest i found mine at the right price with the bottom half of the engine in great shape and the exterior in great shape most people dont beleive its 10 years old. but when it comes down to all the fixing ive done.... buy a prostar their the same truck but with different hoods and then when trying to find parts their the same damn thing as a prostar but the dealer gives them different part numbers and jacks the price cause its the king of the open road truck. kinda like Lincoln used to use same parts as mercury but they were given different part numbers a $50 mercury part was $250 if you were buying it for a lincoln.

im getting a bit sick of cross referencing Lonestar part numbers into Prostar part numbers so i dont pay out my ass for certain things.

[Chamberpains]

(11-10-2019 )Waterloo Wrote:  and it would not even fill half a page of a sheet of typing paper... My EPA truck, Encyclopedia Brittanica baby.

Typing paper? Encyclopedia brittanica? Your really showing your age here Mr. Loo. Next thing your gonna reference is putting a quarter in a phone for a call....