Isx 15 cm2250 regen advice needed
12-04-2019, (Subject: Isx 15 cm2250 regen advice needed ) 
Post: #10
RE: Isx 15 cm2250 regen advice needed
The onion. Hahaha. This should be a sign somewhere in every shade trees workspace.
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12-04-2019, (Subject: Isx 15 cm2250 regen advice needed ) 
Post: #11
RE: Isx 15 cm2250 regen advice needed
(12-04-2019 )Chamberpains Wrote:  The onion. Hahaha. This should be a sign somewhere in every shade trees workspace.

I have something similar to this hanging by my impacts.
./uploads/201912/post_3200_1575456563_ed78cdeda48d43bee065b5fe4870dec5.png
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 Thanks given by: Rawze , Waterloo , Lostfarmboy , Andre_The_Giant , Tonka , JMBT
12-05-2019, (Subject: Isx 15 cm2250 regen advice needed ) 
Post: #12
RE: Isx 15 cm2250 regen advice needed
Appreciate it!!! I bought the truck at 550,000 miles and its at 605,000 now. I just made it back to Georgia as I didn't have the flow to do much on the road. I just got Insite 7 and a Nexiq Usb Link 2 because i had to call roadside twice on one trip for Stop engine lights and a Forced Regen. I'm still figuring the software out but I do know how to do a forced regen now.

BTW... Washing engine today(not by pressure washer) and looking for the leaks in the coolant system. I don't know where to start looking for the exhaust leaks though.

Also, would the coolant leak cause a water in fuel light to come on?
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12-05-2019, (Subject: Isx 15 cm2250 regen advice needed ) 
Post: #13
RE: Isx 15 cm2250 regen advice needed
Exhaust leaks can be found visually by looking for black soot marks on piping (sometimes need a mirror and flash light to see behind things) or grabbing and trying to move joints (see if they wiggle or feel loose). Sometimes you can just hear them or even smell them when the truck is running.

Get a pressure test kit for the coolant leaks. Here's the 1st one that popped up in a google search. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/...0UQAvD_BwE
Pressurize the system and then start looking for leaks. Again take it up to 20 psi and let it sit for hrs. Some leaks are slow to show up. And just when you think you got them all sometimes 1 more shows its druelly little self. If you have to remove or have any standard worm gear or constant TENSION clamps (spring clamps) and you have the system drained, do yourself the favor and replace all of them with constant TORQUE clamps. Along with any questionable hoses with high grade hoseā“. Don't hesitate or second guess yourself and don't cheap out. Spend the $$ and time to do it while its apart. You really thank yourself in the long run when you don't have to constantly be looking for coolant leaks. Not that they won't come back here and there...

Water in fuel light is exactly what it says. There is water in your water fuel separator. Drain the water out frequently. There is a valve at the bottom of the Davco or fuel filter that is meant for just this purpose. Crack it open and drain garbage out every time you fuel and you'll have a better understanding of how much water you're getting in the fuel you buy and how often it accumulates. If the light is still going off after you clear the water, its probably the sensor or the wires to the sensor are shot. Replace the sensor and or fix the wiring.

All of this stuff is something the average Joe can find diagnose and repair. Go get dirty and have fun learning more about your equipment. In the end after all the cussing and swearing you be glad you did everything and learned.
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 Thanks given by: Rawze , Tonka




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