CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
03-30-2020, (Subject: CM2250 764K, rod and main update! ) 
Post: #19
RE: CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
(03-30-2020 )Waterloo Wrote:  If you were sore for days, I'm feeling pretty good! LOL! Did mine on a sheet of plywood in Rawze's driveway... ;-)

(some inappropriate bragging here, I rarely do this, but it is not untrue, so here goes ... )

I ended up doing the 90-degrees on all 24 of the head bolts (roughly 500 ft-lbs each) by hand, one arm on the wrench (other arm holding me in place), when you were here with just a torque wrench for your truck. I may not be the biggest guy out there, but I am one damned strong-arssed, gorrilla, wrench-turning mo-fo. - Usually makes my shoulder sore for a day or 2 as well, but I do not mind.

Same thing for 74bassman's truck when he was here. He is not a little guy, navy vet, -- him and his son both were pulling on that wrench with all their might together, could not get past 1 or 2 bolts. - I had to step in and do them, knocked em right out.

Just about every one else that has been here, I have had to do the bulk of that part of the job.

Mr. hag is the same way, one of the few people that I have met that could give me a run for my money. lol

A lot of that comes simply from doing that kind of heavy wrenching on equipment for so many years.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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03-31-2020, (Subject: CM2250 764K, rod and main update! ) 
Post: #20
RE: CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
I put the new style oil pump in yesterday. A few things I noticed are that the body of the new pump is thicker then the old style. Also, the drive gear on the pump is massive. The idler gear teeth are wider then the old style so it runs at a bit different spot on the crank gear teeth. With no shims I have .011” crank gear to idler. The pump itself had .006” giving me .017” when checking from the bottom with the dial cal. I think I’ll call that good. Hoping to get the pan back on today.


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 Thanks given by: Mattman
03-31-2020, (Subject: CM2250 764K, rod and main update! ) 
Post: #21
RE: CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
The oil pan went back on today!! Woo hoo! I enlisted my brother to help. I had a plan to use a floor jack if I had to do it by myself, but I am glad it didn’t come to that.

The bottom went together and the top came apart. My beautiful wife helped me do an overhead. The cam looks good. I do have a little brass showing but at 764K I think it looks pretty good.

Now I am trying to decide whether I should pull the exhaust apart to test the exhaust/ intake, turbo, and CAC for leaks? I don’t suspect anything is leaking so I don’t know?


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03-31-2020, (Subject: CM2250 764K, rod and main update! ) 
Post: #22
RE: CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
What was the detent clearances after adjustments?. At nearly 800k miles, it is time to check it while your in there and see how much valve seat wear there is in the top end.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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 Thanks given by: JMBT
03-31-2020, (Subject: CM2250 764K, rod and main update! ) 
Post: #23
RE: CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
They all seemed to have ample detent, but I’ll throw the caliper on each one tomorrow before I bolt the cover down and post my findings.


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04-01-2020, (Subject: CM2250 764K, rod and main update! ) 
Post: #24
RE: CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
(03-31-2020 )JMBT Wrote:  Now I am trying to decide whether I should pull the exhaust apart to test the exhaust/ intake, turbo, and CAC for leaks? I don’t suspect anything is leaking so I don’t know?

This is a mentality that should be easily conquered if you want to be successful at anything. If the definitive answer to your question is just a simple test or simple task. DO THE SIMPLE TASK and never leave it in the I don't know column.
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04-01-2020, (Subject: CM2250 764K, rod and main update! ) 
Post: #25
RE: CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
I am glad you told me that Chamberpains, now I can start being successful at stuff!! LOL!

Anyhow still mulling it over. When you have no symptoms to warrant a specific tear down and you would just be doing it for peace of mind, which is the situation I am in, maybe you should look around first and see if there are more productive ways you could use that allotted time. A “closer fire” if you will.

Time management is also a big part of being successful my friend!


User's Signature: Anti-seize EVERYTHING, Except injectors...Use Petroleum Jelly!!!
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04-01-2020, (Subject: CM2250 764K, rod and main update! ) 
Post: #26
RE: CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
In the time it took you to update this post with your snarky comments, you could've had the routine procedure done and definitely not have it on your mind.
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04-01-2020, (Subject: CM2250 764K, rod and main update! ) 
Post: #27
RE: CM2250 764K, rod and main update!
You are wrong again my friend! Where I block the exhaust to test the system is behind the flex pipe under the cab. (This way I can check the flex pipe at the same time) To do that on my truck, it requires me to jack up the truck and pull the pass side steer, then the inner fender, disconnect the modified connections to my bunk heater, (which ride the inner fender), and so you see to tear down, do the test, and re-install everything properly, it takes a bit longer then you suspect.

Speak only of what you know to be true before making rash judgements. On your truck the process may be much different. You may have different tools, the components may come apart differently, or you may be happier with a different quality of work when you do things....


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