Helping my mechanic
07-22-2020, (Subject: Helping my mechanic ) 
Post: #1
Smile Helping my mechanic
My mechanic is working on a 2006 pete 379 with a cm2350 swap. It's got a shitbrain demandate but that's not the current issue at hand. Even though until warmed up the turbo acts like it's on a huge overlapped cam supercharged big block.

Their problem is Jake's wont work.

Looking in onsite the switches for Jake are programmed in but looking through the data logger I found that it shows throttle at 4% and when pushed to floor it goes to 95%. We tried removing the sensor from pedal and messing with where it stops but it wont go below 4% or above 95%.


Question is...in the cm2350 programming is there some way to zero it so the engine brake works? And should there be a idle validation switch on this type of setup?

The pedal sensor is aftermarket dual analog setup and is wired to ecm and functions correctly other than the 4 and 95

My mechanic usually doesnt do swaps just for this reason but he was trying to help a guy save a dollar as the guy got the 20k mile engine on the cheap from a wrecked truck


User's Signature: 2010 Lonestar - CM871 - 13sp - 3.70s, 2016 T680 - cm2350 - 13sp - 3.36s - skateboarder
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07-23-2020, (Subject: Helping my mechanic ) 
Post: #2
RE: Helping my mechanic
Sounds to me like someone creating a cluster#$fuk...

* incorrect program in the engine can cause those issues.

* bad de-mandate programming can cause those issues.

* And/Or Wrong style of fuel pedal?.

======

First and foremost, someone needs to eliminate the possibility of bad de-mandate programming by putting in the correct factory program into the engine that matches the engine and truck, then go from there.

ALSO ... The emissions ... goes with the engine, so if they are putting a CM2350 into an older 2006 truck, then all the emissions components needs to be installed onto the truck too ... (even if they plan on de-mandating it) simply because at some point, that truck is going to get an inspection somewhere and someone is going to be in deep doo-doo with all the stuff missing!!!!.

-- save a few thousands in return for a complete nightmare of a problem + a truck that is going to fail inspection everywhere it goes. At some point, someone will likely regret that decision.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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07-23-2020, (Subject: Helping my mechanic ) 
Post: #3
RE: Helping my mechanic
You will need the newer 6 pin pedal from a donor truck.. The 2006 will not work
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 Thanks given by: Rawze
07-23-2020, (Subject: Helping my mechanic ) 
Post: #4
RE: Helping my mechanic
They got some pedal from someone in Oregon or Ohio that sent them a wiring diagram and harness to make this one work which for driving does but I don't think it has an idle validation switch to cut the signal from the pedal when pedal is fully released it's a floor mount pedal instead of a firewall mount like my t680.

My mechanic figours it will be blown up or some other catastrophe as it's a isx600 cm2350 with what he knows is bad programming but the owner has drunk the Kool aid and thinks it's fine... Let's just say they found the PukeDits box wired into the 9pin that was causing the 9pin not to function for diagnostics and that's probably what smashed a piston through the block on the old motor.


User's Signature: 2010 Lonestar - CM871 - 13sp - 3.70s, 2016 T680 - cm2350 - 13sp - 3.36s - skateboarder
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07-23-2020, (Subject: Helping my mechanic ) 
Post: #5
RE: Helping my mechanic
sad indeed.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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08-04-2020, (Subject: Helping my mechanic ) 
Post: #6
RE: Helping my mechanic
Sad reality is, I've seen things like this and similar to this a number of times now. Sometimes you can talk sense into someone, but more often than not, they'll drive themselves off of a cliff...beating up their own equipment and going broke in the process...but never man up and admit that they were gullible and made a dumb mistake, or just sometimes not able to understand WHY what they did or are doing is stupid.

I saw a driver literally sling a rod through the block of his cm2350 about 3 years ago, that he had just dumped gigabucks into because some bullshit big name shop told him his VGT was trash and screwed the shi#t out of his motor. Truck had like 60k on it. Ran into him about 3 months ago and he was amazed my high mile 871 has had no major issues since and is still going. He's a company driver now. Nobody would fix that $150k truck, voided his warranty, didn't have the money and had to walk away.

He asked me if I was ever going to take it to the same place. You can't fix stupid, no matter how big the hammer is.

Sometimes the best thing to do is just walk the other way. You can't win them all.


User's Signature: 2010 T2000, CM871, 13spd, 850k, tanker yanker
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 Thanks given by: JimT , Rawze , Pd6cas2 , Waterloo





  
  
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