Helping JimT out with an inframe ...

[JimT]

(04-13-2022 )SquareOne Wrote:  .... but it didn't do well on clean metal. When I tried it on the damper, it turned the correct color the instructions said it would and appeared to have good adhesion. Once I hit it with the air hose while prepping for the POR-15, it came off in large patches. Almost as it had no adhesion whatsoever. The other items I used the Corroseal on are still like the day I put it on....but again, they were light-mild rusted.

that's probably the same effect I'm seeing. The nice clean parts (despite the high humidity at the time) didn't provide a good surface for the corroseal.

(04-13-2022 )SquareOne Wrote:  For a min, I thought you were talking about my truck lol. I've been chasing a damn DL vibration for a quarter million miles. I've taken measurements on DL angle and ride height, changed the driveshaft, all U-joints, damper, torque rods, etc.....basically anything that could contribute to it. Even ran the trans up to speed while the driveshaft was disconnected to eliminate the rest of the drivetrain.

Some of that vibration remained even with the rest of the DL removed from the equation. I'm thinking at this point maybe it's the input shaft bearing or possibly the pilot bearing? Hell maybe the clutch has some oddball wear pattern (although if I lightly rest my foot on the pedal, there isn't anything out of the ordinary coming through). It comes and goes and although it's faint and few and far in between occurrences, it needs to be addressed. I'm nearing the 700k mark, and Rawze, you may not remember, but when we viewed the initial history of this my truck 3yrs ago, the first 350k miles were rough for it to say the least.

I've been wondering about the input shaft and/or pilot bearing and that possibility only strengthens my desire to more forward with this project. I figure if I'm gonna drop part of the driveline anyway I might as well do the upgrades I've been thinking about and change a few other parts (even if they aren't bad) instead of doing the same labor 2 or more times. After doing the inframe I've committed to long term ownership of this truck so it makes sense to put the money into parts that will help see the truck through it's next 600k-1mil miles. It's been working very good for my business usage and I see no reason to swap it for something else at this time.

I've been averaging 62mph, mid-roof sleeper and flatbed, though New England, New York state, NYC/LI, NJ and eastern PA with about 85% of my miles running back and forth along I-84 getting 7-7.5 mpg with tall and light ISO loads (or mixed loads ISO/pallets that are nose light, tail heavy). Also pulling 7.2-7.8 mpg with 45k loads of 4' tall skids. Recently recorded a 9.3 mpg tank of fuel round trip from NH to PA back to NH. 50% empty 50% loaded with 3' tall tarped ISO weighing in at 4,000lbs. That run was extra notable since I usually average 9-10mpg just pulling an empty flatbed. FYI I weigh in just a few pounds under 30k with my tractor, m/t trailer, flatbed equipment and full tanks. I've considered reinstalling my roof fairing to help some with the tall ISO loads, but there would still be about a 3' gap and it would make getting around Brooklyn with shorter load a little more difficult. Sometimes I do run 68-70mph in order to make deadlines and stay within the HOS without losing a day's work, but it's only when needed and the income gained is worth the higher expense.

Right now with 3.36 rears I have to hit 72 mph just to reach 1800 rpm in 12th gear or 1550 rpm in 13th gear. Makes 13th gear completely useless. Even in 12th gear cruising at 62mph is 1550 rpm. I need to find a gear ratio calculator to figure out what rear end would be best for my application.