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Rawze · 11-01-2020, **(Subject: 2013 386 peterbilt relay clicking )**

suined Wrote:Hello,

I purchased a 2013 386 peterbilt with a ISX. I have had nothing but issues with the truck since I purchased it. On the way home from ohio to Pa it derated on me, my mechanic buddy plugged into it and the egr differential pressure was reading -156 . I replaced the sensor and it went away. I drove it this week and every day I needed to do a parked regen. I spoke with the previous owner of the truck and he said peterbilt replaced everything on the truck except he egr and egr cooler. He said its always had problems with the exhaust emissions since he had it.

The motor was inframed at kenworth in fl 100,000 miles ago. the paperwork says the pistons were carbon packed.
...
Looking for your advice. Thank you!

The problem with the truck and its emissions systems is obvious. The previous owner kept taking it to the worst place(s) he could it sounds lieke ... THE STEALERS#ITS!. - You say that the Delta-p was clogged up,.. WHAT ABOUT THE REST OF THE DAMMNED EGR SYSTEM -- THE PIPING, ALL THE SENSORS, THE CROSS-CHANNELS FOR THE DELTA-P AND OTHER SENSORS!!--- THIS IS EXACTLY WHY THE TRUCKS EMISSIONS SYSTEMS ARE ALL IN DIRE STRAIGHTS and there is no certified "dealers$it" that is going to go thru the engine and its egr system and clean it all out and replace the sensors. -- Because the engine does not have a fault code for "Clogged Up EGR system" but instead throws codes for everything else. Those shops are stupid and they are required to do whatever is in that troubleshooting tree based on software that is completely useless towards solving DPF problems. - This is why our industry is plagued with trucks that have nothing but problems... NEGLECT AND IGNORANCE .. and the dealersh$its are the biggest offenders and most expensive places to victimize you with these ways too.

-- I am trying to do something here ... I AM TRYING TO WAKE YOU UP TO THE REALITY THAT NO ONE WANTS TO LOOK AT OR FACE!!

If that truck is demanding parked regens .. THE EMISSIONS SYSTEMS ARE FAR BEYOND DIRE STRAIGHTS! ... It should not have gotten to that point and if the last owner ... like you say .. had grabbed a goddamn wrench and pulled apart the egr system and cleaned it all out + replaced the IMAP, EGR pressure, Delta-P, and had kept after it. The engine would not have had nothing but issues , like you say if the truck owner had actually service those systems regularly!.

This is due to SHEER IGNORANCE AND NEGLECT!. THAT IS WHAT IS WRONG WITH THAT ENGINE/TRUCK!-- AND MOST LIKELY HAS BEEN SINCE IT WAS PURCHASED! ... That is its unsolvable mystery. Lack of education that those systems need regular tune-up work done to them BEFORE THE GHECK ENGINE LIGHTS and regen requests PLAGUED IT to prevent the nightmare it is now in and likely suffered by its previous and now current owner.

We see it here every day and it is always blamed on the emissions systems and how they don't work. How they cost someone $20,000 dollars within a year, and they got to take a second morgage on their truck and house to pay for it because of nothing but issues. All while they do nothing about preventing it themselves but instead they go run off to the stealers#its and most expensive, most incompetent places they can find with a shiny logo on them, and then wonder why their trucking business has mostly failed. -- THIS IS WHY! -- IT IS A LACK OF EDUCATION! IT IS LACK OF TAKING MATTERS INTO THEIR OWN HANDS, GETTING DIRTY, AND LEARNING HOW TO MAINTAIN THAT THING ON THEIR OWN like a truck owner should!.. Don't blame the equipment, blame the owners and network of nitwit OEM shops who do nothing but mostly take you money for half-arssed work.

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The way I see it .. you have a choice. You say it was inframed 100k ago. - Assuming the engine is actually healthy internally (a stealers$it did the inframe,.. that scares me badly though, they are the worst at inframing engines these days)... but assuming that for the moment, it is good ... You can either Fix the rest of the engine that everyone has neglected so far and get the emissions systems going properly on it -- YOURSELF -- because no one is going to do it for you (these shops are all mostly too stupid) ... or you can de-mandate it PROPERLY and not by that idiot shop you mentioned ... your choice. No one on here is going to recommend you de-mandate it, that is co0mpletely up to you, as it is not legal in some countries.

The choice of making the system work again properly ... Making it run mostly trouble free like it probably did when the truck was brand new ...

- Given it is asking for parked regens all the time now, and that the engine and truck has obviously been severely neglected, it would require ...

* Performing a very thorough EGR tune-up where everything EGR related comes apart and gets cleaned out + all sensors replaced that are more than a year old. This also includes replacig the IMAP and Exhaust pressure sensors too. THAT DPF does not make soot .. It collect it. THE ENGINE IS WHAT IS WRONG to clog up the DPF.

plus ...

* Replacing the Doser injector if it is more than 250k miles old. Cleaning it otherwise.

* Pull the DPF and DOC both and take them to the stealers#it and have them baked, de-ashed, and flow tested for a few hundred bucks. This will ensure they are healthy and clean. There is no way for the truck to reverse a clogged up DPF all on its own if it is asking for parked regens at this point. - The regen system on the truck only burns off a little bit of what is wrong (some of the soot), and does not clean the the whole thing. Also replacing the DPF Delta-P and cleaning out the tubing for the Delta-P sensor on the DPF element.

plus ...

* Servicing the SCR system by inspecting the SCR element for face plugging, replacing all NOx sensors that are more than 250k miles old, cleaning out the SCR filter screen, inspecting/replacing the SCR injector, checking the Deocmp tube for def buildup, etc.etc.etc. -- AND a strong possibility of having to replace the scr element if it has more than 600+k miles on it and it is still original and NOx levels do not come down after all the tune-up work is done. Those things do wear out eventually. So does the DOC and DPF elements.

plus ...

* Ensuring there are not any CAC, intake, egr, or exhaust system leaks. These cause the engine to loose some fuel mileage, make more soot, and makes the emissions systems act up.

* If the EGR cooler has more than about 600k miles on it ... pulling it off and cleaning all the soot and carbon buildup out of it while your doing the engine side of things. Actually all of the egr tune-up and cooler stuffs should have been done as part of the inframe process on all non-deleted engines ... but I grantee you that stealser#sit did nothing to any of it whatsoever!.. They just slapped it all back on the engine and it full of soot and carbon and garbage!... along with all the other egr systems and sensors! ... They aren't getting paid to fix your truck ... They are getting paid to replace parts only and shove it al back together and nothing more. They don't give a s$it how it runs of if those systems need to be cleaned all out and sensors replaced. - More money for them and more profit for the company to keep your truck running like s#it. - That is the motto of these shops, especially the OEM places any more. They don't have time to make things or do things right any more. - Which means the owner has to learn that GRABBING A WRENCH and servicing most minor to medium things like this themselves is the proper way to deal with it if they want anything done halfway right these days.

* When the DPF and DOC come off it, taking pictures and posting them on the forum here so that some evaluation can be made as to what is clogging them up. Soot? oil intrusion? coolant intrusion? -- It has to be something, and that something found and solved. .. Again,.. nothing that a stealers$it or OEM shop is going to bother to do. They don't get paid to investigate and solve real issues, they are not trained for that, they are only trained to replace parts after the software tell them what the most expensive part to replace is going to be.

That is the place to start with it if you want the system to become reliable again.

-- The alternative ... (demandate) road (assuming that you live in a foreign country where the stuff is legal for the time being) .... Well, your not going to find anyone that is going to do ti right despite their claims. I have seen about every shops work in the country, i review programming by these places from drivers who have been victimized just like you were about to do to yourself ... and the horizon towards having it done right is 90% against you, as 90+% of every program I review or de-mandate I see (hardware wise) is nothing but butchering engine killing garbage. Just take a nice long read thru the bad-delete collection mentioned above and you will start to understand after a while.

Personally, I would say that the only 100% way to know it is done properly 100%, is to do it yourself. It is also the least expensive. First and foremost, you own a truck with a red engine in it .. your next investment is Insite+adapter for a laptop for a few hundred bucks off flea-bay. An inline 6 adapter kit from china works quite nicely and that is what most of the ppl on here have. You don;t have Insite, your at the mercy of the system and every time you get a CEL light, its panic time... That is no place to be as a truck owner. - Once you have this tool, you can pull the program out yourself (using other software found on the internets for free in dark places) and simply e-mail it to one of the 3 or so respected ppl recommended by here to have that part of it done. The DPF/DOC, easy peasy,.. hollow all the way to the bare metal, put em back on. The SCR, needs to be 100% hollowed out too. - If you have a straight exhaust pipe out the back of it, then it is simply a matter of busting it up after pulling the pipe off the back side of it. -- if it is one that is folded up under the passenger side, piping coming from the sides,.. then it will have to be cut open and welded shut again. About any shop can do this if u pull it off yourself, or you can buy a hot snot gun (mig-welder) form harbour freight on the cheap and do it yourself and e-bay welder if u don't want to keep it after. ... AND NO ... it will not be loud exhaust with everything hollow.. the sound is almost the same due to the large volume in those hollowed out cans absorbing the sound of the exhaust. This is your best option, and it is not difficult at all. Many on here have to resort to this after getting bad deletes done and having to straighten it out themselves (because they are now broke and desperate after repeating engine failures). - In your case however, you can simply go this way to begin with.

- Otherwise, your options are severely limited towards finding someone competent if ur just lookin to pay someone, I am not kidding.

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Either way, Fix it right, or de-mandate it rught,.. anyting less is just wasting your time and leads to regrets. I PM'd you my number ion case ya need some advice towards whichever way you go.