Isx 2350 help please!?

[Dynogt17]

I have an Isx 2350 2013 in a 2014 386 peterbilt. My regens are getting more frequent. It'll regen properly 1000+ degrees today, tomorrow itll start a active regen when i come to a stop light. no change in temperature from what its been running lately which has been 550f degrees to 700f degrees on inlet & outlet temps. The next day itll regen properly again. When its in a active regen with 550f- 700f degs the truck hesitates to 1000rpm then itll shoot to 1200rpm and chuff hesitation stops. Im losing boost 27 to 28psi max, & truck is sluggish.

New in last year.
Batterys
Dpf pressure sensor
Dpf & doc blown out with air cleaning
New fuel 7th injector replaced
Backpressue, egr delta p, imap all 50k miles old
New scr 120k miles
New def doser 120k miles
New nox sensor 120k miles

Could this be a bad doc or dpf? Im lost im trying not to delete it!

[hhow55]

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...8#pid22458

Maybe this help's.

[Dynogt17]

It says i dont have permission for that function?

[Rawze]

(10-31-2020 )Dynogt17 Wrote:  It says i dont have permission for that function?

cuz u haven't posted 10 times yet. I fixed this for ya, it should work now.

[Rawze]

(10-31-2020 )Dynogt17 Wrote:  I have an Isx 2350 2013 in a 2014 386 peterbilt. My regens are getting more frequent. It'll regen properly 1000+ degrees today, tomorrow itll start a active regen when i come to a stop light. no change in temperature from what its been running lately which has been 550f degrees to 700f degrees on inlet & outlet temps. The next day itll regen properly again. When its in a active regen with 550f- 700f degs the truck hesitates to 1000rpm then itll shoot to 1200rpm and chuff hesitation stops. Im losing boost 27 to 28psi max, & truck is sluggish.

New in last year.
Batterys
Dpf pressure sensor
Dpf & doc blown out with air cleaning
New fuel 7th injector replaced
Backpressue, egr delta p, imap all 50k miles old
New scr 120k miles
New def doser 120k miles
New nox sensor 120k miles

Could this be a bad doc or dpf? Im lost im trying not to delete it!

The numbers on the far right show there is something borderline wrong with it. An average of 3.0 (not accounting for the parked regen) is considered a bit high and causes fuel mileage loss and leads to more than normal soot from the engine.

* I would normally say to also do a thourough EGR tune-up and replacing the IMAP sensor + Delta-P, etc. if they are more than a year old. Regen issues are engine/egr problems. The DPF does not make soot, it collects it. Looks like you covered some of that already, that is good.

If it is cuffing, that is a serious issue too and will destroy/severely shorten the life of the turbocharger. That needs to be fixed asap and its likely due to bad or clogged up EGR pressure, bad or clogged up exhaust pressure sensor (or its feed circuit inside the thermostat housing / exhasut tube form the manifold), or the culprit is the EGR cooler packed with carbon, not enough flow thru it, and needs to be cleaned out.

Also you want to ensure the software is up to date. Older ecm software was more sensitive to egr issues and made the turbo over-spool like that and chuff. Also that no one has put a different program in the engine to up the horsepower. If they did it incorrectly, it can lead to the issues you describe and/or regen problems.

[Dynogt17]

How do I clean the carbon out of the EGR cooler? I checked the imap its clean and was first thing i replaced its maybe 25k miles old. As for the tune up. Ill do it again. But the sensors are less than 1 yr old. When the trucks running it sounds louder and like it has a restriction in the cab. I also dont get any codes or lights!

Thanks rawze and everyone i need the help.

[Rawze]

(11-01-2020 )Dynogt17 Wrote:  How do I clean the carbon out of the EGR cooler? I checked the imap its clean and was first thing i replaced its maybe 25k miles old. As for the tune up. Ill do it again. But the sensors are less than 1 yr old. When the trucks running it sounds louder and like it has a restriction in the cab.

Thanks rawze and everyone i need the help.

re-read my post, i was still editing it.

To clean out the egr cooler, it needs to be removed and cleaned out thoroughly with solvents, or charcoal lighter fluid, maybe goasoline, etc., and then rinsed and dried well before re-install to ensure no solvent fumes are left in it. I would heavily recommend not doing this using any methods with it on the truck. This is because if a single hardened chunk of carbon gets missed and goes thru the turbo, it will cost you a new turbo.

[Rawze]

(10-31-2020 )Dynogt17 Wrote:  ...
Dpf & doc blown out with air cleaning
...

that is usually only a temporary fix. They need to be removed and taken to a stealers$it with a proper maching to bake them out, de-ash them and flow test them. Using only a blow-gun does not do much. Typically, it costs a few hundred bucks of you remove them yourself. Be sure to take pictures of their faces if you remove them and post the pics here for some evaluation on what the buildup might be.

[Dynogt17]

Someone explain egr orifice pressure to me? I took my sensor out to check it out of curiosity... After i pulled it. I noticed the tip was small. Went to clean it up and the hole was only about a .25 of what it is cleaned up. Used a ziptie to clean it up inside(until i can replace it). I got quite a bit of soot out of it! Cleaned the sensor tip up then using the ziptie i got alot out of the sensor including little chunks.