CM870 loosing coolant/possible inflame

[Koren]

Hi, everyone.
I have 07 Volvo with CM870 in it, 1.4mil miles. No known inframe history. Mandate deleted. I noticed that it started smoking on the initial start up.
https://youtu.be/-LnKdPSLcsk

It smokes like that for about 1-2 minutes and then smoke goes away.
Also I'm loosing coolant. Can't exactly say how much of it. Looks like loosing more under pressure and less when I drive empty.
On top of that I'm having a hard time starting the truck. It feels like starter got stuck trying to turn crankshaft.
https://youtu.be/-LnKdPSLcsk

This video i shot after about 2 hours trying to start it. When I continously trying, the smoke and burning smell comes out of the starter. So I didn't push it much, just did couple of tries every 10-15 min.
The starter is 7 months old, batteries are less than 2 weeks old.
Having the starter on warranty but mechanic told me it is not the starter issue. He said that the coolant is leaking inside the engine and doesn't let piston move to compress the air. However when you move it to the point when valves starting to open up - coolant escapes and let the starter do its job.
Does that make any sence?? Or he is trying to avoid replacing my starter under warranty?
Even if cut off the engine and trying to start it back up right away - it is not cranking with a full speed like it suppose to. It does it very slowly and I can barely start it. Mechanic says I have to open up the engine, fix the internal coolant leak issue in order for it to move freely.

[Coronado126]

An internal coolant leak is a very possible issue, and if you've been having to add coolant and have no leaks on the ground, then you have to start suspecting internal issues.

You're mechanic is correct about the coolant being able to escape when the valves start opening. When that happens the piston can then force the coolant out of the cylinder.

If you have the tooling available, you can rotate the engine yourself by hand with a ratchet on the drivers side of the engine to verify if has an internal failure. If it turns very hard by hand then you need to repair the engine. Keep in mind there will be "tough spots" when you rotate an engine because you'll fight compression but that will fade away and go back to turning smoothly.

https://youtu.be/SOx1AxRSP8E

Here's one of Rawze's videos on engine timing, you'll see he has a big ratchet in the turning tool location in the front cover, which is what I'm talking about using.

Don't be afraid to get a second opinion from a different shop/mechanic. Overhauls are not cheap, and some shops get different price breaks from the OEM than others.

[Koren]

I'm trying to set up an appointment with Haggai Diesel repair. Do you know what do they charge for a basic inframe?

[Coronado126]

Unfortunately all engines and repairs are different. You're best bet is to ask them for a quote for a worst case scenario overhaul, and add 20% to be safe.

Things can go from bad to worse for a big project like that quickly.

[hhow55]

Punch a hole in the bottom of oil filter, and see if coolant comes out

[amermextrucker]

Send out an oil sample and confirm.

[Rawze]

First of all, driving it on 1.4 million miles is asking for trouble. It is a ticking time bomb at this point, ready to send a piston thru the engine block without any warning... then where will you be? -- You got the moneys for an entire replacement long-block?. You should have scheduled an inframe for it at 1.1 or 1.2 million miles and it should have been part of your long term business plan.

-- that said and out of the way ...


Before you go jumping to elaborate conclusions ... and since it has new batteries and new starter on it ... has anyone bothered to remove the engine belts and turn the alternator, engine fan, and air compressor pulleys by hand to see if one of them is not the issue? -- I have seen hard start issues just like you show in your first video due to failed/rusty bearings in alternator (or other pulley) that is hard to turn.

Next would be to .. like mentioned .. turn engine by hand and ensure it is not harder than normal to turn by hand (after all pulleys and belt driven devices are verified to spin easily)>. -- for all you know, and 1.4 million miles on it, you very well may have a broken ring, dragging the piston on a cylinder, or more commonly at this mileage/age, a dropped liner or it has spun a main or rod bearing at this point, it now having destroyed the crank. An additional and completely avoidable $6,000 cost when things are done on a proper schedule ... or even worse, the crank and the block at one of the main bearing locations. -- Again... the ticking time bomb scenario where someone keeps driving it... and thinking they are saving moneys,.. only for it to cost them several thousands $$$ more than they would have saved if they had inframed it when it was due .. before something got destroyed.


Lastly, if it is de%leted, and has delete tuning in it, .. then you also are going to want to pull a copy of the program out of that ecm and e-mail it to me for inspection if it was not done by Mommaburt, Unilevers, or Mr.Hags. - A lot of harmful bad programs out there and everyone swears that their was done right when in fact most of them are beyond quite bad for the engine.


those are my thoughts on it any ways... it should have never been driven as long at is has ... and if it is indeed not a spun bearing or dropped liner (head gasket) and is only something simple like wiring issue, alternator or A/C compressor, etc... then this is your final warning, and at this point you should be scared to drive it much at all beyond taking to get it inframed ... I know that I would be.

[Koren]

Thanks for the replies. All of the pulleys spins fine. But I can't manually spin the crankshaft.
I tried to set up with Haggai but they are busy till December 7. I'm stopping driving at this time but I'm afraid I have to find a shop first since it probably won't start at all after I leave it for a couple of days.
Any shops you guys can recommend in GA/FL area who does an inframe?

How do I pull out the copy of the software of the ECM?

[Coronado126]

You'll need calterm and a communication adapter, which there are several that will work. The most popular seems to be the Inline 6 since it's a little older and cheaper but still works great. Trading software in the open here is against the rules, but some crafty Googling will usually get you taken care of.

While your getting calterm you should set yourself up with InSite as well if you don't already have it.