Driveline noise/vibration

[Rawze]

(01-08-2021 )JimT Wrote:  

(01-08-2021 )Chamberpains Wrote:  Also coraseal and por-15 it all for another go round of a good chunk of a million miles.

Don't get me started on coraseal and por-15 right now. I have to completely repaint my oil pan as the coraseal + por-15 + red spray paint from my inframe is all peeling off, in large sections. I think the coraseal didn't bond well (maybe from the humidity? it is latex/water based) . Next time I might just try por-15 with a top coat of red paint.

I have used that combo to paint a lot of metal things ... never have I seen it peel or flake off when its done right.

Must use lighter fluid (for any grease buildup), followed by some type of de-greaser to get rest of the oils off, followed by soap (dawn works well) and water, followed by a water-only scrub / scotchbrite pads to clean the metal very well. Acetone can be used but it must be followed by a scrub with water. ... bare metal ready to rust ... Otherwise it will not stick. No oil residues or even brake cleaner residue is allowed ... The correseal is a mild acid with a polemer that attacks the metal, seeps into the pores, and hardens like a plastic. The por-15 is ... well.. tough as all h%$ell nails. You can use the por-15 directly but my experience is that it is tougher when you apply the correseal first. The surface also needs to be well scuffed up for good adhesion too. Polished and smooth is not your friend when painting metal parts.

The correseal will turn the metal black when applied right. If there are any purple or lighter colored spots then it did not bond due to oily residue left on the metal.

Matter of fact, I replaced my own oil pan a few months ago. the new one was not painted at all. I corresealed it 1 coat, por-15'd it about 2 coats ... It is looking really good. A hammer would not chip that paint.