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90petercar · 02-01-2021, **(Subject: Is it mandatory for a 5 inch pound torque wrench )**

I'm trying to set my overhead myself for the first time..is it mandatory to have that 5 inch pound torque wrench..seems kind of light

Chamberpains · 02-01-2021, **(Subject: Is it mandatory for a 5 inch pound torque wrench )**

what are you setting the overhead on? What kind of engine and model?

marek4792 · 02-01-2021, **(Subject: Is it mandatory for a 5 inch pound torque wrench )**

Are you trying to set the injector preload? If so, a dial style torque wrench is heavily recommended due to the fact if you use a clicking style wrench by the time it clicks you may have already overtighten the adjustment screw.

Waterloo · 02-01-2021, **(Subject: Is it mandatory for a 5 inch pound torque wrench )**

Here is what I use on the injectors, it works fine as far as I can tell. Rawze uses the same... I bought mine at AutoZone... https://www.amazon.com/ARES-4-inch-Visib...658&sr=8-7

90petercar · 02-01-2021, **(Subject: Is it mandatory for a 5 inch pound torque wrench )**

a Cm 570

90petercar · 02-01-2021, **(Subject: Is it mandatory for a 5 inch pound torque wrench )**

I'm trying to set the whole overhead..valves injectors and jake..its on a cm 570 signature 600. My Jake doesn't seem to want to work on the low setting unless its right at 1500 rpm

Waterloo · 02-02-2021, **(Subject: Is it mandatory for a 5 inch pound torque wrench )**

When was the last time the Jake harness was replaced? They get brittle from heat and can fail with age. If you do not know the age of the harness, might just be a good idea to replace it now while you are in there.

And, if the original engine harness is on there, it could be broken or green wiring, etc. One item on my to do list, is a new engine harness, as they do not last forever.

Your issue sounds more electrical than mechanical. But... I'm not an expert.

Rawze · 02-02-2021, **(Subject: Is it mandatory for a 5 inch pound torque wrench )**

(02-01-2021 )90petercar Wrote: I'm trying to set my overhead myself for the first time..is it mandatory to have that 5 inch pound torque wrench..seems kind of light

Just run the set screw down until it touches the feeler gauge + feeler gauge has some resistance when moving it around under it. Lock it in place afterwords with the retaining nut as specified by QSOL (Quick Serv On Line instructions). It is not very critical, it just needs to be touching with a little bit of some positive resistance when sliding the feeler-gauge around under the set screw.

It is a big-ole clunky diesel engine, so it does not have to be extremely precise.

My own rule of thumb (for all valve rockers, including engine brakes) is that after you set it and tighten the locking-nut, if you can get the feeler-gauge out from under the rocker without having to yank on it really hard, then it's good enough. You don't want it really loose, but in general, the easier it is to pull it out, the better, as the valves gaps TIGHTEN UP as the head wears, not the other way around, so if it is a thousandths or so on the loose side of things, it will not hurt anything whatsoever.

As far as the engine brake is concerned, SET THE CLEARANCES CORRECTLY!! -- DO NOT make more or less clearance to try to get the engine brake to be stronger or weaker. THIS DOES NOT WORK! because it is the TURBO=-CHARGER that sets the strength of the engine brakes, NOT THE VALVES!. All you will end up doing is increasing risk of a piston striking a valve on an up-stroke under heavy engine braking and high RPM conditions. - Adjusting them outside of what QSOL says is a NO-NO! and anyone who would do, or even suggest this is simply some fool who ignorant on how the engine brakes on the ISX actually works.

Rawze · 02-02-2021, **(Subject: Is it mandatory for a 5 inch pound torque wrench )**

(02-01-2021 )90petercar Wrote: I'm trying to set the whole overhead..valves injectors and jake..its on a cm 570 signature 600. My Jake doesn't seem to want to work on the low setting unless its right at 1500 rpm

The turbocharger is what sets the engine brake strength. Make sure the CAC and intake/air-system are not leaky, make sure the Air filter for the engine is clean, and make sure the exhaust system / muffler does not have restrictions or have too much soot impacting them. Mufflers do go bad and get soot/carbon packed after any hundreds of thousands of miles of use.

Also make sure the (assuming you still have the correct factory Holset turbo on it and it is all still intact) Waste-gate is set correctly according to QSOL and that the program in the ecm matches the engine ser#.

Just a word for reference: You should not see more than about 28~ish-PSI or so on the turbo with the jakes on high and high rpm's under maximum engine jake loads. Much higher than this and you start risking the engine to drop a valve under extreme jake conditions. If the jake is not strong enough for you with it set correctly like this .. then LEARN HOW TO DRIVE THE DAMNED TRUCK IN THE RIGHT GEARING when going down a hill instead of trying to get more out of a jake brake that is already literally the strongest of any other brand of engine out there in its classification.

What your describing does not sound like there is a problem. The CM570 jake brakes are not going to be as strong as newer engines with VGT turbochargers on them in lower RPM ranges, simply because that engine has no control of the "air" and it is typical that the engine brake not reach its strongest ability until the turbo is spinning fast and the RPM is up in the 1500 range like you describe. - If You want a stronger engine brake at lower RPM's then you should have chosen a truck with a more modern engine with an electronic VG turbo that can close its vanes and make pressure for the jakes at far lower rpm ranges.