Diesel Engine Pre-Oiler Pump

[1096]

Oil Cooler

[jorden486]

Big HP motors have 2 elements in the oil cooler. Has anyone figured where to tap the pressure into? The feed for a pre-pump is easy-use the other drain plug. But where do you put the pressure? Also will it just flow backwards through the main oil pump?

[mkmac]

(03-21-2016 )jorden486 Wrote:  Big HP motors have 2 elements in the oil cooler. Has anyone figured where to tap the pressure into? The feed for a pre-pump is easy-use the other drain plug. But where do you put the pressure? Also will it just flow backwards through the main oil pump?

Not all have 2 elements also one of the places for return line is just feed it to your oil fill tube,

[Diesel_Pusher]

You make some very good points...especially about dry bearing engine wear, which many, if not most, never consider.

These pre-luber kits are quite expensive up-front.

Permanent magnet 12V motors are quite pricey. As are the small-ish gear pumps that move the stuff around at 5 gallons a minute at 60psi or greater.

I designed (easy to do) my own using a perm-magnet 12V motor and a bronze gear pump available from Grainger (Dayton brand) or fleabay (Oberdorfer or TEEL).
I really hate paying retail and so gravitate to fleabay...I bought several for $125 each instead of one at $475 retail. They are nearly impossible to kill.

An aluminum filter head completes the plumbing. A three way valve makes oil changes a breeze as you can pump it right in a large bucket. I make sure the oil change port has a threaded plug in there when not specifically changing oil. This prevents very expensive mistakes.

A large 3/4" spring loaded hydraulic check valve keeps it all going in one direction. Most have a 2lb crack-open pressure. I bought a box full from a hydraulic place going out of business.

A 12 volt solenoid relay ( Perko Marine, Mercury and similar) used to trim/ tilt large outboards, is very similar to the pre-luber settup.

The motors themselves are similar to outboard motor starters (without the gear) are pretty thirsty with electric and hard on ones wallet. You need healthy batteries to pump many gallons of cold and thick oil and then have enough juice left to start a cold 15L engine.

POST lubing can prolong the life of your turbo...as the lubricating oil cannot dwell and
COKE itself onto the turbo bearings.

I worked a buzzer into the Solenoid circuit so I dont forget that the thing is running and completely discharge my batteries.

The whole unit took a weekend of time to install. A mechanical oil pressure gauge completes the settup... turn it on until PSI reaches 60 for a minute or three...wet bearings...start'er up.

[snailexpress]

Any pictures?

[Rawze]

(11-07-2018 )Diesel_Pusher Wrote:  You make some very good points..
...

Personally, I think it is mostly pointless.

Have yet to see an ISX fail because of dry-starts,. Hell, for that matter, even have some excessive wear. even so, a bit of gear lube at oil changes would prevent most of it any ways.

When you consider why most people have to do major repairs to an ISX, it is almost always the components that don't even have oil going through them.

Some could argue the whole over-head cam wear issues, but there again, Valve adjustments at proper intervals + keeping the oil CLEAN AND FREE OF WEAR METAL BUILDUP or other contaminants like excess soot + changing it before the additives start to separate (regular intervals and not extended oil changes) and I have yet to see a problem with one.

I have heard of companies who have spent tens of thousands on those pre-lube and other systems only to yank them off again because of problems in winter and maintenance issues on them where no benefit was seen whatsoever, considering lubricated parts are hardly ever the problem with engines these days to begin with if they are even half-way cared for properly.


I do however maintain that bypass oil filtration itself IS A GOOD THING to reduce soot and other contaminants, as long as it is not accompanied with extending oil drain intervals. This however does not require an electric pump, that can potentially wear and put wear metals or other contaminants into the engine to achieve.

On the rare occasion where you would actually have a dry-start situation, like months of sitting, or after an in-frame,.. an external pump works just fine.


Just my own thoughts, no one has to agree.