Water temp problems
09-19-2016, (Subject: Water temp problems ) 
Post: #10
RE: Water temp problems
(09-18-2016 )Brock Wrote:  
(09-18-2016 )scottydogtruck Wrote:  What I would do is get down to a gear that allows you to keep the boost down below 20psi...more boost=more fuel=higher EGT's=disaster in the making!!

If it means you crawl up the hill...so be it. Save your engine and your fuel.....


My 2 cents.

I don't agree with this.

I've got a autoshift and a heavy spec truck. this thing shift's how it figures a Cummins aught to be shifted and it goes against everything you guys tell yourselves is normal.

while accelerating this thing takes it to 1800 before next gear, up to 2000 if on a incline in the lower 8 gears.

Downshifts climbing hills by 1500 always and keeps the rpm high.

my get extrenal manifold sensor has never been above 800f, he'll I don't remember the last time it was over 750

Now here's the kicker. I read all day all you guys being super impressed with these motors making a million miles hauling 80k. I've got over a million on mine, had the mandate on the entire million and I haul 140,000lbs so I know a bit about trying to keep temp down.

I get this whole keep your boost down thing that guys on here are taking about but I don't think that should be for long climbs. less boost means the bottom end is doing more of the work which creates more heat and that's why you drop a gear, to get boost back up to cool that damn motor.

It's always been my opinion that if you lug the motor excessively, the exhaust gas doesn't get pushed out as fast. If you watch your pyro while you lug it, the egt's climb excessively vs revving higher.
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09-19-2016, (Subject: Water temp problems ) 
Post: #11
RE: Water temp problems
(09-19-2016 )386lover Wrote:  It's always been my opinion that if you lug the motor excessively, the exhaust gas doesn't get pushed out as fast. If you watch your pyro while you lug it, the egt's climb excessively vs revving higher.

Apples, oranges, potatoes, bannanas, grapes,.. etc. etc..

It comes down to a few things. --

* The less fuel and torque you consume = less energy from the engine and therefore less wear over time. LOWER BOOST LEVELS = LESS TORQUE and LESS FUEL at any given moment. It is a mechanical device. It cannot heal itself, and the more you work it, the more it will wear.

* No matter what driving style and technique/ method, etc. you use, if you have a pyro gauge on the OUTSIDE of your exhaust manifold like my videos show, -- THE LOWER YOU CAN KEEP It AND MAKE IT STAY all the time, the less wear and fuel you will use up.

* EVERY TRUCK and EVERY OPERATION is different. Just because one guys truck only gets to 700 degrees on his pyro gauge DOES NOT MEAN that another truck will do exactly the same thing. The manifold temps on a Volvo will heat up and get to 900 degrees while a W900 will barely get to 600, pulling the in exactly same conditions. Different trucks have VASTLY DIFFERENT INTAKES AND EXHAUSTS and this has a HUGE effect on how they operate.

The key is to have the LOWEST boost possible at all times, still getting the job done. -= THEREFORE LESS ENERGY AND TORQUE IS CONSUMED AND REQUESTED.

Lower BOOST does not mean lower RPM!. Lower BOOST is a direct result of YOUR FOOT! and how eager you are to get down the road. It is that nut behind the wheel that is the most stubborn and difficult to adjust at the end of the day (I.E. YOU).

To maintain the LOWEST overall pyro temps at all times too. think of it as the "fire in your furnace".

WHATEVER DRIVING STYLE that helps you to achieve this is what will be the best driving style for you and your particular truck.

A good example of this is my truck. When I am at 80,000 lbs and weight maxed out, running a gear down, letting the engine get up to 1650 RPM and breathe good/move a lot of air works much better than trying to go down the road at 1250 RPM in a gear higher. My overall boost requirement is LESS to keep me going and my pyro drops off by about 100 degrees as a result of LESS BOOST AND BETTER AIR FLOW. On the other hand, when I am really light,.. moving down the road at 1650 RPM in the same gear, the same way,.. my pyro will fall off and the engine will run cooler when I gear UP and let it coast along at 1250 instead of 1650. It is almost the complete opposite effect when I am light vs heavy. Most trucks will act this same same way, but not all. Some just have so much air flow anyways, that it changes the game completely. As well, if your engine is programmed differently, it will be different too. A truck that produces incorrect boost levels at lower RPM, but better ones at higher RPM may always run better in higher rpm ranges, and vice versa.

=======

Personally, I think that engine life should be measured in fuel consumption over its lifetime, and not miles. This would paint a much more accurate picture of how "old" an engine really is.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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09-19-2016, (Subject: Water temp problems ) 
Post: #12
RE: Water temp problems
Well rawze, if fuel consumption is the way you want to Guage a engines age then me with 1,621,768 km and life average of 4.2mpg

This is my engine

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User's Signature: I'm no mechanic, I'm just a guy that breaks down enough to know a bit.
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09-19-2016, (Subject: Water temp problems ) 
Post: #13
RE: Water temp problems
(09-19-2016 )Brock Wrote:  Well rawze, if fuel consumption is the way you want to Guage a engines age then me with 1,621,768 km and life average of 4.2mpg

This is my engine

Yup,... that is probably your engine unless you have replaced the head, and rods and mains at least once, etc.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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09-19-2016, (Subject: Water temp problems ) 
Post: #14
RE: Water temp problems
(09-19-2016 )Rawze Wrote:  Personally, I think that engine life should be measured in fuel consumption over its lifetime, and not miles. This would paint a much more accurate picture of how "old" an engine really is.

VERY well said. Fuel consumption over the life of the engine is a direct indication of the amount of work the engine has performed over its lifetime. IMO a MUCH better measurement than hours or miles.
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09-20-2016, (Subject: Water temp problems ) 
Post: #15
RE: Water temp problems
I guess I need to keep in mind that I would have absolutely no idea to drive like alot of you do. I'm 55,000lbs empty 140,000lbs loaded.

I know I can drive a heck of alot better and way more fuel conscious when im at 55k.


User's Signature: I'm no mechanic, I'm just a guy that breaks down enough to know a bit.
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09-20-2016, (Subject: Water temp problems ) 
Post: #16
RE: Water temp problems
(09-20-2016 )Brock Wrote:  I guess I need to keep in mind that I would have absolutely no idea to drive like alot of you do. I'm 55,000lbs empty 140,000lbs loaded.

I know I can drive a heck of alot better and way more fuel conscious when im at 55k.

The heavier I am, the more I use the terrain to work my momentum. Helps a ton with fuel mileage.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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