Turbo Actuator code

[Marajin]

(09-27-2016 )Rawze Wrote:  To sum it up,...
Turbo Actuator and other turbo related issues are THE RESULT of any of the following on a stock, emissions engine ...

This is true BUT: On an engine that gets MM put in it, the only way to get Actuator faults is if the turbo itself or the wiring is the problem. I can't tell you how many trucks I have seen in the past that had nothing but turbo problems, repeating errors, actuator codes, and claims that the turbo was bad. They come in and After MM-2 and turbo re-programming - they suddenly have not a single turbo issue any more and the turbo runs like a charm. It makes me wonder how many turbos the OEM shops change that there is really nothing much wrong with to the price of $4500+ after labor.

I am not telling the guy that this is what he needs to do but I just wanted to say that I have seen this a lot. Ghost errors for the turbo over and over and shops replacing it and a lot of other stuff with only short term results or to no avail.

[Palazon]

1st, thanks to all for the advice.

2nd I see the advice for the MM delete and am now curious. I'd like to know more if Rawze could take a moment to point me in the right direction to do a bit of research. I was under the impression that a delete had to be an obvious and expensive modification that would get me busted at the Shasta scale the 1st time I pulled into the bay.

3rd Somehow someone thinks I'm bitching about money. No, not really. I do well enough to keep the rig payments up and such. I've just had a series of small breakdowns (air bags, etc) and minor improvements that have lowered my accounts at this time. That means that I have less to work with at the moment.

Look guys, I'm willing to take advice and learn. I've been doing auto repairs since I was 12, but diesels are new to me. I'm learning what I can from the vids and such. I have a fair toolbox aimed toward cars (disorganized as hell right now).

For now, I'll replace the other sensors. All the system has been cleaned out, so maybe one has just gotten bad enough. Somebody point me at the MM info and I'll do my research. Side note: normal MPG is 7.2 running western 5 at 40k in box, including idle.

Thanks again.

[dbl overdrive]

Nobody's putting you down friend, we're just trying to make you see the light.
There are plenty of people here that will help you but you have to be willing.
Rawze always says you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink ot.
My offer still stands, you need help, you are welcome to borrow my insite but there are others here that can help as well.
Good luck .

[Palazon]

I may (gratefully) take you upon the offer. *For now* I will replace the IMAP and back-pressure sensor (Probably tomorrow am since I'll be passing a cheaper parts source.. Tacoma region sucks). PS: Just called, both in stock @ 1/3rd of Tacoma's price.

After discussion with my wife (CInC-checkbook), we've decided that it's dumb for me not to have diagnostic software and tools. I have enough background to handle 80% of the problems with proper diagnostics. So we'll be working on purchasing Insite, adapters and an older remaned laptop. Might take a bit to gather the cash, but we're on it.

Folks, I DO see the light. Time to make some changes.

[in2trux]

The FIRST tool you need with an ISX is insite. You can do the rest.
https://youtu.be/BQ4yd2W50No

[Palazon]

Rawze: Polite suggestion. While your videos on EGR tune were a blessing (thanks again), you didn't mention what tool you use to clean out the pipes. I was thinking (after I finished of course) that an opened up or straight toilet brush might work well to remove the caked on crud. That would also allow folks to use bulk carb cleaner instead of 6+ cans like I used.

Is that what you use on the interiors or do you use the parts cleaner machines loaded with carb cleaner?

[Brock]

(09-27-2016 )Palazon Wrote:  Rawze: Polite suggestion. While your videos on EGR tune were a blessing (thanks again), you didn't mention what tool you use to clean out the pipes. I was thinking (after I finished of course) that an opened up or straight toilet brush might work well to remove the caked on crud. That would also allow folks to use bulk carb cleaner instead of 6+ cans like I used.

Is that what you use on the interiors or do you use the parts cleaner machines loaded with carb cleaner?

I used carb cleaner and a normal bristle brush like you describe.

As for your issue. I've been down the road. You think you've got problems......

if you haven't read this, take the time and do it..

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=424

That's my problems. I tried my hardest and spent a lot of money to try and keep the mandate. In the end I couldn't do it and went the @m*m^2 route. I've got other demanded trucks so I wasn't afraid to do it but I can sure tell you I am glad I finally did. After the demandate, my actuator codes dissappeared and my turbo started acting right again.

I was then able to focus on other things. What I realized was I have high blowby and bad cams and rollers, I couldn't tell because I was so busy changing every other problem and neglecting the raw mechanics.

The only reason I didn't demandate it right away was because my wife was dead set against it because we know tonnes of guys who do and then blow up their motor. I went ahead and tried everything else for her then finally I just did it and decided to accept the wrath.

She was very forgiving when I told her we were saving 50 bucks a day on fuel. and I could stop dumping money into useless problems.

[in2trux]

If the engine is going to blow up, it's going to blow up anyway.
The damage is already done. Point is, stop the damage.
Worn rings, cams and bearings don't heal themselves.

Changing the operating state is a 50/50 shot. You never know until you roll the dice.
At best you delay the inevitable.

[Mrkentee]

(09-27-2016 )Palazon Wrote:  Rawze: Polite suggestion. While your videos on EGR tune were a blessing (thanks again), you didn't mention what tool you use to clean out the pipes. I was thinking (after I finished of course) that an opened up or straight toilet brush might work well to remove the caked on crud. That would also allow folks to use bulk carb cleaner instead of 6+ cans like I used.

Is that what you use on the interiors or do you use the parts cleaner machines loaded with carb cleaner?

I've used simple green and a scrub brush in a bucket with great results. (Obviously only on parts that won't be damaged by water.) thoroughly dry and you're good to go.