Turbo Actuator code

[Rawze]

(09-26-2016 )Palazon Wrote:  Ok, here's the story.... 2009 Pete, ISX engine. Recently started dropping a Check engine, Turbo Actuator. Note: code only appears after engine temp is 160 or higher.

Background: Replaced Turbo, actuator and EGR cooler @ Cummins NW about 15 months ago. They performed an EGR clean out. Last fall, replaced DPF. Last month, new DPF injector.

Performed EGR tune up but only replaced Delta P sensor (Thanks for the vids, BTW). Intake pipe was filthy. Code remains and prevents Regen.

Please keep in mind that I do NOT have an Insite program and I can't afford one. I have about $1k left in maintenance accounts. I'm a west coast runner, so a delete is not an option. :dodgy:

Should I go ahead and start replacing the sensors or is there any tests I (a shade tree mech) could run to pin them down?

Thanks in advance.

Someone needs to pull the actuator off and give it a thorough inspection and stop guessing like a bunch of diddle-dong morons.

You also need to stop wasting your money on those same waste-your-time idiots you have been taking it to as well. They are only there to take every penny you are making and sell you expensive repairs that solve almost nothing. The OEM network of repair shops in this country is nothing but a collection of over-priced Deplorable idiots at best!.


Some Direction to go in,...

* Inspect the turbo thoroughly.






* Replace the IMAP sensor
* Replace the Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor (Exhaust back pressure sensor) and ensure the tube feeding it is not clogged.

* Check the wiring for the turbo and the communications for J1939 Port#2 (the engine and turbo port).

Have it MM-2 'd OR...
==== IF YOUR NOT GOING TO MM-2 it and keep the mandate -- Also ...

* Replace the Delta-P sensor and clean out the tubes (sound like you did that one).

* ENSURE you have no gasket leaks at the exhaust manifold, EGR cooler, Intake, CAC, Boots, EGR Valve, Venturi pipe, Crossover Tubes, etc. etc. and inspect the boots in the EGR piping that wraps around the back of the engine.

Since you say someone replaced the EGR cooler,.. I can only assume you had a leak. BECAUSE OF THIS, YOU SHOULD ALSO...

* ENSURE 100% WITHOUT QUESTIONS--- THAT IT IS AN OEM COOLER AND NOT AN AFTER-MARKET EGR COOLER!.

* Remove and clean out and inspect (or replace if it has more than 400k miles on it) the EGR Valve.

* SINCE YOU HAD COOLANT LEAK IN EGR COOLER -- REPLACE THE F4$$KING DOC filter too! -- It likely has had all its chemicals/platinum washed out of it and is no good any more!. Do not get a re-man DOC either, they have very little platinum in them. (Personally I think most would go the much cheaper route and de-mandate (MM) it instead of wasting a couple thousand more dollars on yet another over-priced emissions component that is only going to fail again in in a year or 2).

* While your at it,... TAKE PICTURES of their faces and post them here. A Picture of the face of them is worth 10,000 words.

* Get the actual Active AND Inactive cummins fault codes that rare coming up and post those too!. TAKE PICTURES of the active AND INACTIVE faults it has and POST THEM on here. $300 bucks off e-bay and you can get your own Insite and do all your own work on the truck,.. stop wasting money and jumping over a dollar to grab a dime. you are only headed down the road towards going out of business in the path you have taken so far.

* STOP bitching you ain't got no money! -- You are the one who put yourself in that situation and no one else!-- If you had done a lot more research and had made much better decisions BEFORE you decided to own a truck, you would not be in the shoes you are in now. I see it over and over and over etc. -- People go out and get their own EGR/DPF-Based truck,.. and HAVE NO ABSOLUTE CLUE HOW TO ACTUALLY OWN ONE! -- OR HOW TO MAKE WISE BUSINESS DECISIONS towards maintaining them!--- Then go broke and only after THEY ARE DESPERATE-- Will they suddenly see that they are completely clueless and have been doing nothing but making bad decisions. -- I bet there's 50 people on this forum every day that could take YOUR TRUCK and take your runs and freight and MAKE IT PROFITABLE!. -- You need to ask yourself -- "How Can I Do That TOO!?".

* Well,.. I AM POSTING LOUDLY AT YOU and telling you THAT YOU CAN!-- and trying to help you but you gotta change lanes instead of continuing down the path of "brokeness" like you have been on.

* You also need to ENSURE that the right program is in your truck!. A LOT of trucks will give turbo faults and/or DPF and regen faults/problems of someone has altered the factory program and put a higher HP program in it. it is way too common. Here is more info on how to check that... http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=1

* You need to ensure the turbo you have is not a CHINESE FAKE -- or Something some local shop re-built. Thay are notorious for acting up.

* POST on here the regen history from Insite. take a picture with your phone and post it.

=============

To sum it up,...
Turbo Actuator and other turbo related issues are THE RESULT of any of the following on a stock, emissions engine ...

* A Failing turbo, actuator, and/or turbo sensor (intake temp sensor or speed sensor).

* The wiring for the turbo and/or the communications for J1939 Port#2 (the engine and turbo port) is failing.

* A failing Emissions system where you have too much exhaust back-pressure. Clogging DPF and/or DOC and/or SCR can.

* Faulty sensor data for the intake, EGR, or exhaust.

* EGR Valve is sticking/positioning incorrectly and it is trying to overcome it.

* Massive leak in the Intake, CAC, EGR, and/or Exhaust manifold circuits.
=========

What I would do in your shoes -- Either take a load to Atlanta (or bobtail it and put a sign on it "not for hire" ) and get it MM-2 and fixed right once in for all (you should be lucky you can even drive it, many people can't even make it to go get it fixed right when it gets bad enough). OR-- Get really brave and buy an Inline from china and Do the de-mandate yourself if you are computer savvy.

OR...

Do all the things I mentioned above to get that system back in good running order and do it yourself, because it is GOING TO DO IT AGAIN in about a half a year if you don't keep after it and keep those systems well maintained BEFORE the check-engine lights start coming on.