Threaded Mode | Linear Mode

msesatx

Hello,
i just joined and thrive for knowledge so here i am. I'm based out of san Antonio, tx and decided to transition from a driver to an o/o. I've done extensive research and wanted to get a pre 2008 model truck since id just be texas based. well, I just received a very lucrative contract running reefers from san antonio to los angeles once a week. completetly derailed the research trying to avoid getting a newer year truck with egr and carbon regulations.
I have investment money saved for initial costs and a pre approved loan for the right truck. being my first truck, i didnt think spending $65+k for my first truck would be the best idea, thus the reason i was looking at older year trucks. I know to expect problems for the jump getting a used truck, but i firmly believe with rawze and all the educated skilled driver's information and experience, i can significantly improve my chances of keeping my truck on the road instead of in the shop.
I'm 25 years old with 4 years experience to my name, I'm all ears and no mouth unless it is something i can give an opinion on. any advice on which year would fit best for (preferably under 2014) my needs for running the dedicated route to Los angles weekely would be much appreciated

Hammerhead

STEP 1-Download and read Rawze's book.
STEP 2-Reread the book, and absorb the important things you missed the first time through.
STEP 3-AFTER you have read the book twice and digested the information thoroughly, you will have the following to post for review;
-ECM download showing:
-active fault codes
-inactive fault codes
-if no fault codes, you can see if the ECM has been connected to very recently (indicating recent code clearing, possibly?)
-engine abuse history
-regen system history
-engine life average torque load
-photos of the cam and rocker assy's of the perspective trucks engine
-detailed inspection report of the perspective trucks overall condition
-oil sample lab results
-quite possibly other test/inspection results as well

IF you haven't yet purchased a truck and want to become an O/O, and you follow the above steps in order, you won't require much more advise, you'll already be on the track to success...

There was no Rawze's book when I bought my first truck. Lucky for me I had a few of the older guys who tolerated me back then and they took me under their wings and helped guide me. I didn't follow all of the steps, or in the order advised above, but the general plan was fairly similar...it has been successful for me, and I currently mentor a young fella. I printed the book and told him to read it, as I think it is very well laid out. I had 20+yrs as an O/O before I read it, and I picked up a thing or two that have improved my business. For the perspective or soon to be new O/O, it is an incredible foundation for startup success. Nothing can guarantee success, but this will absolutely make the transition go much smoother.

preacherboy24

The mannerism of your letter says you are not a steering wheel holder but a living thinking business man. Good start.
It doesnt really matter anymore whether you buy an older or newer truck because either you will have issues with. The older truck will actually be less downtime because you're not fretting over voiding your warranty. I bought a 2006 at $22k over 3 years which came out to $700 per month. My first piece of advice is keep your monthly liability down.

Next divide your money into three separate accounts. One personal, one business, and one taxes. I put $650 in my personal every week, $400 in my savings (tax) every week and the rest sets in the business account. It keeps me from thinking I have a lot of money and I have enough left after paying my taxes I can make investments in my truck.

Enable yourself to take negative cash flow. I have two credit cards I can actually buy another truck with if I so choose. Most drivers fail when their company wont shell out operating money they should have been able to absorb themselves. If you dont have a way of taking negative cash flow then I would be putting more in savings every week....a lot more.

Develop a good relationship with a shop. Make that your shop and support that shop. You pay your bills this way....Pay the mechanic....Pay the truck payment.....Make the mortgage payment....buy groceries. You dont have a good shop to keep you on the road you wont pay anyone. In 15 years of being an OO I have never paid late and none of my checks bounced. I have two shops in my area that will do $3000 worth of work on my truck and let me pay it in 21 days. I usually pay the very next week when I get the bill. Buy pizza for the guy working on your truck.....Christmas cards.....I give my mechanics a bonus if my truck passes a DOT inspection. They have my back.

As far as the truck....the more expensive it is....the more it tells you what to do and when to run. I had my last truck paid off and ran it for 3 more years. Most of the time I could take a 4 day weekend. It was nice. In my opinion a truck with a CM871 is the best truck you can get right now. Your pulling a reefer so you can get a highrise. If you were pulling a flatbed I would say get a midrise. If the truck has over 600k on it roll in new rods and mains right away and do the EGR tuneup. De mandating the engine is obviously the way to go. Get some history on the truck. If it has a wetline or had one then it was run heavy 50% of the time. If it was on with a linehaul company it prolly had an easy life. You can only go so far looking at the truck...just do the best you can. My choice would be a Prostar with an 871 because Rawze and a lot of others have one here. You have so much support here that your maintenance costs would be pretty low.

You are on the right path by asking questions. I often will play dumb around people just to see if they know something I dont. I have been flatbedding since 1992 and a rookie TMC driver showed me a better way to wind my straps a while back. When you get into trouble we are here to help.

Like Rawze says you buy a truck off the lot its not ready to go until you take it home and get it ready. Plan on spending a couple of days with it checking things....cleaning things....testing things....ect. Have that good shop ready to bring it in and prep it. Once they and you are comfortable with it then hook to the trailer and make come $$$$$. I would consider working with a shop that is willing to join this group or my facebook page (Cummins ISX Problem Solvers) so they can get up to date with whats going on.

You have the potential to make a lot of money if you do this right. Its the truck that will make or break you. In my opinion the CM871 is the most reliable fuel efficient (@m*m^2..that is) engine out there. It has enough support out there that it should give you plenty of service before it needs to be rebuilt.

msesatx

(10-08-2016 )Hammerhead Wrote: STEP 1-Download and read Rawze's book.
STEP 2-Reread the book, and absorb the important things you missed the first time through.
STEP 3-AFTER you have read the book twice and digested the information thoroughly, you will have the following to post for review;
-ECM download showing:
-active fault codes
-inactive fault codes
-if no fault codes, you can see if the ECM has been connected to very recently (indicating recent code clearing, possibly?)
-engine abuse history
-regen system history
-engine life average torque load
-photos of the cam and rocker assy's of the perspective trucks engine
-detailed inspection report of the perspective trucks overall condition
-oil sample lab results
-quite possibly other test/inspection results as well

IF you haven't yet purchased a truck and want to become an O/O, and you follow the above steps in order, you won't require much more advise, you'll already be on the track to success...

Thanks! im about 70 pages in and im very impressed thus far. rawze did a tramendis job and is very informative! im building an inspection/info needed list for when i go out searching for trucks with my mechanic as well. now it comes down to more reading and figuring out which year/ model, and engine would best fit me.

msesatx

(10-08-2016 )preacherboy24 Wrote: The mannerism of your letter says you are not a steering wheel holder but a living thinking business man. Good start.
It doesnt really matter anymore whether you buy an older or newer truck because either you will have issues with. The older truck will actually be less downtime because you're not fretting over voiding your warranty. I bought a 2006 at $22k over 3 years which came out to $700 per month. My first piece of advice is keep your monthly liability down.

Next divide your money into three separate accounts. One personal, one business, and one taxes. I put $650 in my personal every week, $400 in my savings (tax) every week and the rest sets in the business account. It keeps me from thinking I have a lot of money and I have enough left after paying my taxes I can make investments in my truck.

Enable yourself to take negative cash flow. I have two credit cards I can actually buy another truck with if I so choose. Most drivers fail when their company wont shell out operating money they should have been able to absorb themselves. If you dont have a way of taking negative cash flow then I would be putting more in savings every week....a lot more.

Develop a good relationship with a shop. Make that your shop and support that shop. You pay your bills this way....Pay the mechanic....Pay the truck payment.....Make the mortgage payment....buy groceries. You dont have a good shop to keep you on the road you wont pay anyone. In 15 years of being an OO I have never paid late and none of my checks bounced. I have two shops in my area that will do $3000 worth of work on my truck and let me pay it in 21 days. I usually pay the very next week when I get the bill. Buy pizza for the guy working on your truck.....Christmas cards.....I give my mechanics a bonus if my truck passes a DOT inspection. They have my back.

As far as the truck....the more expensive it is....the more it tells you what to do and when to run. I had my last truck paid off and ran it for 3 more years. Most of the time I could take a 4 day weekend. It was nice. In my opinion a truck with a CM871 is the best truck you can get right now. Your pulling a reefer so you can get a highrise. If you were pulling a flatbed I would say get a midrise. If the truck has over 600k on it roll in new rods and mains right away and do the EGR tuneup. De mandating the engine is obviously the way to go. Get some history on the truck. If it has a wetline or had one then it was run heavy 50% of the time. If it was on with a linehaul company it prolly had an easy life. You can only go so far looking at the truck...just do the best you can. My choice would be a Prostar with an 871 because Rawze and a lot of others have one here. You have so much support here that your maintenance costs would be pretty low.

You are on the right path by asking questions. I often will play dumb around people just to see if they know something I dont. I have been flatbedding since 1992 and a rookie TMC driver showed me a better way to wind my straps a while back. When you get into trouble we are here to help.

Like Rawze says you buy a truck off the lot its not ready to go until you take it home and get it ready. Plan on spending a couple of days with it checking things....cleaning things....testing things....ect. Have that good shop ready to bring it in and prep it. Once they and you are comfortable with it then hook to the trailer and make come $$$$$. I would consider working with a shop that is willing to join this group or my facebook page (Cummins ISX Problem Solvers) so they can get up to date with whats going on.

You have the potential to make a lot of money if you do this right. Its the truck that will make or break you. In my opinion the CM871 is the most reliable fuel efficient (@m*m^2..that is) engine out there. It has enough support out there that it should give you plenty of service before it needs to be rebuilt.

Incredible reply, gave me chills! funny thing is when i first got my cdl i met a guy around my age at the time (20 yrs old) that LOVED working on all the company trucks on the yard. he had a vision but needed money to invest in himself. long story short i gave the man $2K without ever asking for it back and ended up leaving the company losing contact with him. well, now that guys own his own deisel mechanic shop in San Antonio and when we met up this year i got a promise to honest repairs with great prices because i believed in him. im very fortunite to have that support starting out because im sure thats one problem that can make or break you. im currently structuring my bank accounts and getting advisories on my side such as accounts, mentors, banking relationships, ect thank you for suggesting the pro star with the 871, ive been shook looking at pro stars since all i see are maxxforce engines with horror stories around these ways lol never gave pro star a chance even though i knew they have different engine options.

Hammerhead

(10-08-2016 )mmmm Wrote: Thanks! im about 70 pages in and im very impressed thus far. rawze did a tramendis job and is very informative! im building an inspection/info needed list for when i go out searching for trucks with my mechanic as well. now it comes down to more reading and figuring out which year/ model, and engine would best fit me.

Congratulations Son, that's a term of endearment not an insult, sounds to me like that path your on will lead to your desired destination.
If you're best contract offer is in/out of Cali, then you need to obtain a DPF model at the oldest.
Around here, that would put an ISX as your best option. The primary reason is the programming. There are some extremely intelligent folks here that will be able to help diagnose and "tune" that engine to its maximum efficiency. Personally I would recommend the CM871. Others will chime in as well. I recommend it because it meets Cali requirements and does not have SCR/DEF removing some potential issues. It is also the particular model I have learned the most on.
That's MY opinion, ymmv.

msesatx

(10-08-2016 )Hammerhead Wrote:
(10-08-2016 )mmmm Wrote: Thanks! im about 70 pages in and im very impressed thus far. rawze did a tramendis job and is very informative! im building an inspection/info needed list for when i go out searching for trucks with my mechanic as well. now it comes down to more reading and figuring out which year/ model, and engine would best fit me.

Congratulations Son, that's a term of endearment not an insult, sounds to me like that path your on will lead to your desired destination.
If you're best contract offer is in/out of Cali, then you need to obtain a DPF model at the oldest.
Around here, that would put an ISX as your best option. The primary reason is the programming. There are some extremely intelligent folks here that will be able to help diagnose and "tune" that engine to its maximum efficiency. Personally I would recommend the CM871. Others will chime in as well. I recommend it because it meets Cali requirements and does not have SCR/DEF removing some potential issues. It is also the particular model I have learned the most on.
That's MY opinion, ymmv.

Im pretty sure im on the younger/ less time experienced of the group, which i feel is great so i can just shut the F up and listen! lol
are you currently running a CM871? If so, which model are you using if you dont mind me asking.

Hammerhead

(10-08-2016 )mmmm Wrote: Im pretty sure im on the younger/ less time experienced of the group, which i feel is great so i can just shut the F up and listen! lol
are you currently running a CM871? If so, which model are you using if you dont mind me asking.

Yes I am running a CM871.
550hp/1850torque.
2919CPL.
It is in an '09 KW T800WH. It is NOT aerodynamic, but neither is my job. I run multi-axle heavy haul, so other than engine and tranny type (18 speed), I'm not the guy to ask for efficiency points which you will need to pay attention to outlining a reefer.

in2trux

You should contact the guy that wants to sell his Prostar.
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=954

Sounds like a win win to me. He's done most of the hard work already.
I think he said he's in OR. Truck is worth what he's asking plus all the extras, pending inspection.
If I was buying another truck now, that's what I'd be looking for. Fresh inframe, new clutch.
It needs new tires, about $3800.

You have some really good advice from the other guys.
Just don't get in too big a hurry, take your time and things will fall into place if it's meant to be.

My advice is to get the best truck you can start with and keep the payments and overhead as low as possible! The hardest part is getting to know the new truck and big repairs can hit you rapid fire, be ready for it.